read the good old hynass manual and it says to use an arbor press... well idk any1 with an arbor press and i really dont want to pay $14 per bushing ($56 total) so any ideas? or am i stuck here? also is the front control arm bushings the same way?

 

It is next to impossible to get the bushings out of the rears without destroying them. They (the LCAs) are about as strong as tinfoil. (well, the REAL CHEEEEEP kind of tinfoil, anyway; not the good stuff though)

Get new ones. They're CHEEEEEEEP. Check the board sponsors, brands like Lakewood at Summit (that's what I have), etc.

Fronts, the arms fit something else REAL common; S trucks, A/G bodies, iunno what, but something. You can pick em up at yer local buzzard nest for like $30/pr. Go get a pr and a set of new bushings and ball joints, take em to yer local tire store down at the corner about 15 minutes before quittin time on Sat afternoon along with a half-dozen of yer favorite cold adult beverage, and slip the mech a $20 and some attitude adjustment fluid for his efforts. Well worth it. Then spend Sunday afternoon changing out those, the springs, struts, strut mounts, tie rod ends, center link, idler arm, sway bar bushings, and end links. You won't believe it's the same car.

 

Do what I did, Instead of buying the bushings, then paying to have them pressed out and in, just get new LCAs from founders http://www.foundersperformance.com/p...trol-Arms.html
$63 for just the control arms, I think I payed $109 for LCAs and panhard bar shipped. Made sense to me because my LCAs were pretty rusty. Not to mention they are tubular, greasable, and 10x stronger than stock. Just my

 

I boxed (welded a strip of steel along the bottom and ends) my stock rear control arms and then put poly bushings in them. (I have rod ended control arms now.) With the arms boxed in, its easy to press the bushings in and out.
I have the polys in my arms for many yrs and when I took them out the poly fell out of the shells.. they either compressed or shrunk. Never again will I use poly.