Grrrr. Can i fix?

 

Another pic. Should i have jacked it up on the thing to the left of it? it looks sturdy.

 

That can be straightened back out and rewelded.

I always jack mine up by the sub frame connetors but on third gens w/o them I use the center of rear end to jack up both sides of back at once... Or Right past where the lower control arm bolts to the "frame rail" on each side... If you look at the rear of car, where LCA bolts then look for an oval looking hole in that frame rail... That is where I go as well.

Up front... It's under the K member or A arm, or on front side at the "frame rail"

 

So where do you jack up when you are changing a tire? (which is what i was doing roadside)

I thought those areas were ok to use for emergency jacking.

I used a non standard jack though that did not have the slot for the fin to go into.

Would it be ok with the OEM jack or one of these?

i.e

, or .

 

Shoulda jacked it under that flat place about 4" in front of the control arm bolt.

NO the sheet metal is NEVER EVER OK to use for jacking a car; not these cars, not ANY cars, not in an emergency (unless it's life or death and the car doesn't matter), not at any time for any reason. Sheet metal won't hold up a ton-and-a-half or 2-ton load.

 

I never have used a factory jack on any of mine. I carry a little hyd. trolley type jack in the back cargo area. This is the one I carry http://www.walmart.com/ip/33348135?reviews_limit=7&

Then at home I use big floor jacks.

Really, any place is better than the sheet metal lip or floor pan to jack it up. Look at the suspension, and "frame" of the car. Those are the best and strongest parts.

Like rear shock mounts, rear end housing, LCA mount on rear end, A arm, K member, etc.

 

that doesn't look bad- i don't think you actually broke any welds... pound if back into shape and pretend you never saw it..

and actually, the pinch weld is the strongest point on most unibody cars- thousands of shops lift millions of cars of every make and model every year by putting the pads of their hoists under the pinch welds near the front and rear suspension mounting points. it is the recommended jacking point for most cars, and they even sell jack stands with notches that straddle the weld to positively locate the stand under the car and support the car..

 

That's exactly what I thought. I've seen it done this way hundreds of times but always with a slotted scissors jack

 

It is the the Recommended spot on most cars. On the instructions on the jack it is even the recommended way for third gens. HOWEVER, on these cars it almost always does some kind of damage. It's only slightly better than jacking up by the floor.
With a flat tire it's sometimes impossible to jack on the rail though. Sometimes better to just get it towed than use a jack on it.

 

damage like this can happen if you use a crappy little floor jack like the ones you buy at Wal Mart and jack the car up on gravel or some other surface that doesn't allow the wheel of the jack to roll in as the jack lifts up... something has to give as the jack travels on an outward arc as it moves up, and the tires on the other side of the car aint going anywhere so it bends the pinch weld.. the factory jacks are designed to be used on gravel or other irregular surfaces, so they don't damage anything.