Looking for some insight. I have an 89 IROC-Z 5.7 T-Top car. Stock 9 bolt PBR disc rear. Just replaced entire suspension and steering. New:Steering gear, Hotchkis springs, Koni Yellow struts and shocks. Flynbye LS1 brake conversion with spindles, Global West Del-Alum control arm bushings, Spohn Lower control arms, LCA relocation brackets, and adjustable panhard bar (all with delrin rod ends), and UMI adjustable camber/castor plates. After alignment, My left front is 13/16 higher than the right front and the left rear is 1" higher than the right rear. Door gaps all look good and doors open and close nicely. From short 2-3 mile drive, car drives nicely with no noticeable pull. Any ideas what would cause the left side to be noticeably higher than the right or how I can fix it?
Measurements are as follows:
LF 27-1/16 RF 26-1/4
LR 27-1/8 RR 26-1/8

Ready to install Spohn weld-in subframe connectors, but concerned I may still have an underlying problem to deal with. Looking for ideas.

 

The first thing to check would be whether or not the springs are indexed correctly. If one is not indexed properly it will cause the car to sit lopsided.

 

Yep - Checked that several times. they are indexed almost identically with the end of the spring just before the edge of the second hole

 

Could one of the control arms be in a bind? Did you torque everything down with the suspension loaded or unloaded. By loaded I mean place jackstands under the control arms to simulate the car sitting on the ground and then torque all your bolts?

 

I will recheck that this weekend. I have RaceRamp wheel cradles that allow me to lift the car and get under it with wheels on and suspension fully loaded.

 

drive it some and see if it settles

 

X2 on not tightening the suspension components without the weight of the car.

We get these calls almost daily.

Craig

 

Loosened up everything on the left side and ride height on left is unchanged. Springs are indexed correctly between the two holes in the control arms end point of springs is basically identical from side to side. wondering if chassis is torqued. T-Top and door gaps all look decent and close from side to side.

 

IS the rubber isolated seated properly? Did you tape it to the spring before installing?

 

My car had the same problems when I redid all of my suspension. I didn't go and take accurate measurements like you, but it was noticeable just by looking at it. Took probably 1-2 weeks of daily driving and everything settled perfectly.

 

Isolators were taped in 2 or 3 places to seat properly, but I have thought of that as a potential problem since they were somewhat misshapen from before. May try to replace with new or heater hose. If I wasn't so worried about being square before I weld in subframe connectors, I would probably just wait to see if they settled out. Car can be driven, but isn't in daily driver condition right now. Wanted to get subframe connectors in before I pull the engine and trans to go to paint.

 

Problem solved - Drivers side coils spring was installed upside down with the flat to the bottom. Can't believe I didn't catch that. Once flipped, both sides are within 1/16"