I have always wanted air ride, now more than ever since I bought a house with a sharp incline in the driveway. I figured I could lift the car to get over the incline and then bring it back down.

The car will be used to go to shows and drive to work. 700HP F1 procharged, T56, Moser 12 bolt, 4 point bar, etc....

I may want to bring it to a autocross track someday, but that is way off, and not a major point for this car.

I have read that air ride can make the car a bit bouncy. For a full system it would be about $4k all said and done, where coil overs would be about $1.3K.

So that is huge. There is also the added simplicity of the coil overs. No compressor, lines and all that.

My question is, what coil overs are people running most? I have Spohn caster camber plates already so I can most easily get into their front setup since I can save $289 on the cost of the front.

Rears I am open to suggestions. Thanks.

As for the drive way, I guess I was thinking I can "tune" the height of the car to just clear the the headers on the way out.

 

My experince is that the front coil over setups.are worthless on these cars. They were not designed for them and none of the available options are ideal. I had spohns pieces. The front obviously limits tire width, but the most annoying issue that nobody ever mentions is that unless you give up on aligning your car and just position the strut mounts in the center of the openings, the spring can contact the sides of the opening in the shock tower and make horrible banging noises when the springs compress. Then there is the debate of whether the front sheet metal is even strong enough to support the cars weight.

the rear.setups are ok, but usually fit better with lowered lower mounts which it seems are now being offered by some companies.

these things work better with front weight jacks, and the rear can be either setup.

 

I habitually back in, and drive out (lots, driveways, garage, etc.). Will this option work for you?

Agree with don't use front coilovers. I did use Spohn's backing plate from their coilover kit to support the tower sheet metal.

 

TED, why are you using that plate? Just to reinforce that area?

Are you using conventional springs?

What are some good weight jacks? I have only seen the Hawk's units for $500. I am fine with the cost if the parts seem like good units.

I don't mind drilling a hole in the frame either.

I just want a way to dial in right height. #1 concern.

Oh and yes, I can back in and back out. Basically move around rear end first till I am on the road. Great idea.

 

86TA - Are you saying you can't get a "stock" alignment without the spring hitting the inside of the strut tower?

 

Yes, just to reinforce, and yes to conventional springs. Using swivel cup weight jacks. Plates and weight jacks are in the fore ground. Conventional springs in the back.
Drop spindles have been beefed up to road race version since the pic:


Plate for the weight jack gets welded in the spring cup, but crown needs to be cut out.


Small centering hole drilled (to check) and hole-cut for bolt.



Driver's side is close to brake lines:


Now you can adjust ride height from inside the engine bay, and the swivel cup allows for articulation. They are cheaper, but require more work.

 

Not sure i follow, what's cheaper than what?

I have a PA Racing k-member and tubular a arms. All my brake lines will be made from scratch, so no worry about clearance.

what companies make weight jacks? I can call the manufacturers and compare prices, specs, etc...

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-2...bly,23487.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/WEIGHT...LATE,6509.html

It will be easier to weld in the plate on the PA Racing k-member as it is already flat.
Price Ground Control or Detroit Speed.

 

What springs do you use?

I am just making a street car.

Afco sells springs, just unclear how you size them up.

 

Holy crap don't buy any weight jack kit you need to cut holes in your uni-body for. Call up Ground Control for a set for under $500 with custom spring rates you choose... I can also say that the DSE with their swivel joint weight jack kit is freaking amazing.

You will be very happy with weight jack no matter the brand, and will keep the option for huge wide front tires for the day you choose to start going around corners fast

 

Bolt thru the frame rail is the "correct" way to do it. I know you are not afraid of "modding" your car!
DSE's WJ you have to buy their a-arms, too. Same principal except theirs is bottom up instead of top down - turn the bolt from under the a-arm. I like the swivel on the top side (k-member) rather than on the bottom (a-arm) side, which is DSE. Probably small difference, though. WJ's are built exclusively for their a-arms - and are reversible - no welding. You cannot just use their WJ's. They are great, but boy you pay for both. Met the Tuckers at Road America and held the strut mounts in my hands - I want them. My wallet says I have to pick and choose sparingly from their catalogue.
Ground Control is OK, too, but in the 500 range - no articulation.
These are $150 or so, but more work.

Springs are Eibach 9.5" length, 5.5" OD, and #850.

 

I don't see why you need to use DSE A-arms when using their WJs.

I have a PA racing k-member and A-arms so I don't plan on changing those parts.

I read the instructions for the DSE weight jacks. They use a hole in the stock k-member to keep from rotating. I would need to add something to my PA k-member to "catch" the WJs and keep them from rotating. I don't think this will be a big deal. I like that they can pivot and come with springs. I will most likely use DSE weight jacks for the front.

I need to use coil overs for the rear for the added tire clearance. I like the Founders design the best from an engineering stand point. Lower mount looks well built and I have read good things about the viking shocks.

 

As long as you can get a 1/2" ratchet extension thru the bottom of the a-arm, then you'd be ok. Their bolt does not appear to have a square end in the pics - maybe it's just the pics, otherwise trying to turn a round bolt with threads will be difficult. The DSE WJ's are not welded in place. They use a locating pin to keep the WJ in place along with the spring pressure. They are a great company, but I prefer the plate welded in. You pay for their reputation - not always a bad thing. Your preference is what counts.
Both the cheaper ones I linked to, and these DSE are quality pieces and you will not be dissatisfied.

Viking and QA1 are virtually synonymous. Both are from Minnesota (hence, the Viking name) and the President used to work for QA1. Be very careful with the range, collapsed and extended. You need to have a shock that is operating in the correct range. You are going to lower the car. The stock range is 16"
Going back to DSE as a quality reference - their very expensive JRi have a range of 14", collapsed 12", and extended 17". Theirs are designed around a 2" drop. I looked everywhere and made many calls. I decided on RideTech HQ 6110. They have 14" range, 11.34" collapsed, and 16.5" extended. Choose your preference, but just make sure the numbers are close. Just because they say you can drop them 2", does not mean the shock will operate properly - match the numbers. I previously had QA1's with Spohn's kit, so I already had the mounting hardware of the kit.




You will not regret this set-up, and you will have adjust-ability! Post pics. I want to see the finished product.

 

What rotors are in the pic? I plan to lower my car a bit. Not sure how much.

 

They will work with a stock A-arm, and the locating pin is a small hole, and doubt you wouldn't be able to make it work with your PA racing junk.

The bolt design is not the square 1/2 drive size visually, but it does fit perfectly, as that was also something I noticed when I put my hands on them. The swivel bucket built into theirs is a really nice part.

Buy what ever you want, but I think you will be happiest on weight jacks!

 

Hey BAD, thanks for the input. I will be going the DSE weight jacks for the front for sure.

Coilovers for the back.

Is there is any main reason for calling PA parts junk?

I bought my PA racing K-member back when they were the only company selling K-members, about 10 years ago. I have since added gussets to every joint and mounting point. Stripped it and repainted and cleared. I agree it wasn't the best design from the start, but I think with my added metal is more than strong enough for my needs.

 

Rotors are custom thru Coleman Racing - 13.0 x 1.10.
This is a mock up pic w/ alum hat (curved vanes are backwards).

And pic showing the 6 piston FSL calipers.

And yes, I got them to fit under stock wheels (no easy feat)

 

Hey TED, thanks for the info. Those brakes look great.

I am thinking of sticking with my C5 Z06 brakes for now, then maybe once the car is built, go for something bigger. Maybe see what vette is out at the time.

 

The C5 kit is plenty unless you are truly going hard-core racing. With the right pad and fluid you will get plenty of fade free track time from the C5's.

Run a good blank rotor, and choose the pad and fluid appropriately.

 

Thanks 89GTA. I will do that.

I don't plan to track my car or anything like that. Just trying to build a nice street car.

Only reason I don't like the C5 calipers is that I don't think they look that great. That's all.

Happy to hear they can perform well though.

Not sure what you mean about matching the correct brake fluid, but I figure that is because I don't know much about hardcore track racing. I plan to use DOT 3 fluid and some high quality "street" pads. Not sure what, but that is at least a year out, so I will learn what to buy then.

Back to the OP.

I currently have some KYB AGX struts. Think these will be OK with the DSE weight jacks? I plan to lower the car a bit, but nothing crazy.

 

The correct brake fluid is one that matches your needs. Track days produce high temperatures. High enough to boil the fluid.

High temp brake rake fluid costs more and absorbs water more quickly which lowers its boiling point and makes it less effective. So it needs to be bled and flushed more often.

I use castrol srf in the RS and motul rbf600 in the gta. I'll be switching to srf in the gta though. Mainly because SRF has a much higher wet boiling point so it won't need as much maintenance.

RBF600 is about $18 a half liter. And the Castrol SRF is about $31 a half liter. The RS takes about a liter for a full flush. And I can't remember what the GTA takes.

Both of those fluids are 10x overkill for a car that doesn't see the track. If it's a pure street car the they aren't needed. If however you want to visit the track and drive hard just ONCE then you need a high temp fluid or you might find yourself having a very bad day when that brake pedal goes right to the floor.

 

Thanks for the info Thirdgen88GTA.

I think I will be sticking with OEM DOT 3 fluid for now. Car won't be done for a couple years most likely.

Once it is, probably a year or two away after that I will consider tracking it. When that time comes, I will consider bleeding out the old DOT 3.

Back to my question above:

I currently have some KYB AGX struts. Think these will be OK with the DSE weight jacks? I plan to lower the car a bit, but nothing crazy.

 

I guess my last comment was deleted about PA racing. Hope you saw it as to answer your question

I think that you will be just fine with the AGX up front until the replacement Koni's or better can be installed. As long as your not riding this slammed all over the place you will be fine.

 

Didn't manage to see your comment about PA.

 

Not worth putting it all out there again to be deleted, but there was business ethics issues

 

I may be selling all my PA stuff as I have decided to go LS swap on this build.

Might be easier to simply buy a higher quality K-member that is setup for this. Spohn, BMR, etc...

 

Your thread title says, "don't want bouncy ride," but your bouncing all over with your decision making (LOL).
LS is a good decision.
Don't discount the factory k-member so easily. All mods necessary are easy once out of the car.
Good Luck!

 

Lol, I am hoping to lock in my design now... I think.

As for factory K-member that was thrown out almost 15 years ago!

 

TRUTH! I'm still rocking the factory kmember with no plans to change

 

Nice. I just need to find a cost effective way to find a nice stock unit that is not all corroded. I can buy one online and have it shipped, but man that sucks.... Man I hate all the dumb mistakes I did like tossing my stocker back 16 years ago!