So I ordered from my local parts store 2 x MOOG bushing kits.
Kits turned up, both have Part K6253 marked on the boxes.
I wrestle out the old bushings and press in the skinny bushings.
I then re-tool ready to push in the short fatty bushings and they literally just fall in to the hole (probably a couple of mm too small for the hole)


Upon some investigation of pictures on the MOOG website it looks like they packed the rear bushings in place of the front bushings in the kit (duh!).


The parts store took them back, however they wont order any more because they said if the two boxes I already got were wrong, then probably all the ones in the warehouse are also wrong.


I looked to order them online at amazon - the second review on the amazon website says the same thing.


So - I want to order a different brand so I don't end up having to return another set. Am I able to get the short fat bushing on it's own?
BTW, I'm in Canada


Thanks
Rhys

 

wow good info i was actually going to order 2 of those kits and 2 ball joints as well...

 

That is strange.

I just replaced both front LCA bushings using Moog K6253 from O'Rilieys. I ended up getting the boxes from two different stores and both were direct replacements. I had zero issues.

92 Z28

 

were you able to do that with hand tools in your own garage? or did you have a shop press in the bushings

 

There are at least 2 different sets that fit control arms that fit these cars, and more that fit otherwise identical arms from other years that fit other cars.

The problem isn't "Moog", "warehouse", "brand", etc.

Best thing to do might be to just get another set of arms at yer local buzzard nest that match the bushings you have. They're CHEEEEEEEEEEEP and COMMON; must fit LOTS of other cars, some other chassis, maybe S trucks or A, B, G bodies, etc. Whatever it/they is/are, it uses shocks up front instead of struts, as I'm sure you noticed the arms have shock mounts in them, which is of course totally foreign to our cars. In any case, much easier to wrangle the arms than the bushings.

 

Isnt there a different size bushing for the later models, after 83 or so.I cant remember which is which, but there is a smaller size bushing on the a-arms.
I say this because on the global west site they sell two bushing kits for 82-92 f-bodies, 82-mid 83 (1021) & 83-up (1022).A GW rep told me after i inquired why two kits, but i forgot the details...food for thought.

 

Recently redid mine and went with ACDelco to avoid this very issue. Saw mention of it on a few reviews.. Amazon, Summit, etc.

 

Are you saying it might just be easier to grab some other control arms and bolt them up rather then messing around with the bushings/ball joints? Yet if you grab some from the junkyard your probably going to have to replace those crap bushings as well? I did see those tubular control arms that bmi, umi and the other aftermarket performance guys make but they dont look like they would work well on a daily driver...

 

No, he's saying get another set of arms that match the replacement bushings, and press them in.

 

Zackly: what he said I said.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...s-created.html

JamesC

 

And you stated that because he had problems pressing in one of the front control arm bushings, saying the bushing or control arm is incorrect and would be easier to find the correct control arm for that bushing at a junkyard?

 

Thanks for the link. I looked at that and I guess the 82-83 would need the smaller 1.625" bushing - maybe the one that I got in the kit. Mine is an 87 so would be the larger 1.915" bushing size.
The Moog site only has one type of bushing kit listed and covers 82-92. One would think that they would be better off sending out the larger bushing as default.


Anyhow, I have just ordered a different brand (Mevotech). Will be a couple of days before I get them. Fingers crossed these will have the correct size bushings. Will let you know.

 

Yes. I did it in my garage with loner tools from O'Riley's. I used their spring compressor and ball joint press.

Once the LCA. Has been removed from the cross brace, the flange on the back side of the front bushings need to be pushed back onto the rubber. I did this with a hammer and an punch tool. The rear may need a couple of taps with the pinch to get it loose as well. I also applied penetrating oil to both sides of each bushing as well.

Google remove LCA bushings and look for the one that uses the press.

HTH

 

Correct.

Last time I bought control arms for my car (83), they were $30 a set. I watched the d00d go back to the shelf where they had them: there were like HUNDREDS of sets stacked up there, even though there were only about 2 3rd gen F cars on the whole lot.

Don't know what they all came off of, but whatever it/they were, there were A SHIPLOAD of them around somewhere.

In my case, I wanted to have a ready-to-go pair with new BJs & bushings already in them, so I could swap out those, springs, struts, the whole steering linkage, all the way bar rubber, and add a Wonderbra, all in an afternoon. Worked out PERFECT.

Why futz around with something HARD if you can turn it into something EEEEEEEEEZY?

 

Ok cool thanks for the info i hope to try it sooN!

Hmmmm ok damn you got me thinking that IS a good a idea! So obviously if i find some Control arms from another third gen fbody they will bolt right up and be the exact same (assuming they are stock front control arms)? Then i could get some bushings and ball joints pressed in the day before i do the struts/springs! Maybe even paint them..... Damn good thinking!

EDIT: How do you guys think one could go about swapping (or just replacing balljoints on a lca) control arms and keeping the front brake assembly together? Could i tie the spindle with the rotor/caliper to the fender of the car while swapping control arms or replacing bushings? (Sorry for hijacking the thread)

 

Bushing sizes and steering stops are unique to the third gen.

Don't bother with 78-88 intermediate, nor S-series 2WD. Can be made to work; no gain in doing so.

 

Well I got the Mevotech bushings today and these ones are the right size.


Will be borrowing the ball joint press from the local parts store at the weekend and get them installed (will also be freezing them so they go in easy)

 

No need to really tie the spindles back, unless you really want to. Years ago on my beater 84 Camaro (beater is being kind) I changed the balljoints without removing the arms, by supporting the control arm with an extra jackstand, and beating bloody hell out of the old balljoint with a mini-sledge until it drove out. Then setting the new balljoint in place, support with the same jack stand, and beat down on the arm until the balljoint seats. Not the most elegant solution, and somewhat of a hack, but like I said, it was not a nice thirdgen.

I'm sure the joints could be changed without removing the brakes or arms with portable tools, assuming the joints dont require a shop press to remove.