Time to replace the suspension on my 89 T/A bit have some questions
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Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Time to replace the suspension on my 89 T/A bit have some questions
So yeah the suspension on my 89 T/A is probably shot as she bounces like a basketball when you push down on the car. I would like to replace it with a bit more performance parts. Mind you she is mainly a cruiser as I just like to drive the car (I don't bounce her off the line or hot dog), but a little more performance wouldn't hurt. So what should I go for? I was scanning over hawks and seen a few options like Koni, Bilstine and Moog. I want to replace the shocks front struts (or are they shocks? I don't see a coil spring on them). Would it be recommended to replace the coil springs too? I wager they are original as well as most of the other suspension parts. Sway bars I think probably need new end links too. I guess you can say I want to upgrade the ride without lowering it or going TOO overboard while I am at it. Any suggestions would be helpful.
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
Engine: 334 SBC - stroked 305 M4ME Q-Jet
Transmission: upgraded 700R4 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: Time to replace the suspension on my 89 T/A bit have some questions
RockAuto has your springs cheap.
While you are looking, search for the sway bar end links, shocks, struts, etc.
While you are looking, search for the sway bar end links, shocks, struts, etc.
#3
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Re: Time to replace the suspension on my 89 T/A bit have some questions
springs generally don't need replacing unless they've been physically compromised. I'd look for any rust or other damage and how the car sits (does it sag?).
For a suspension refresh, you'd want shocks & struts, A-arm bushes, rear control arms (cheaper to just replace the arms than the bushes), sway bar end links and front camber plates (that the struts locate into). I'd also check your steering components whilst you're getting your suspension bits done. Oh, and weld in subframe connectors
To increase the performance but keep the car fairly compliant, I'd stay away from poly bushes except on sway bar end links (where the extra firmness and longevity of poly is welcome but doesn't materially affect NVH). I like founders' extreme joints rear control arms and their camber plates and have bought from them in past
https://www.foundersperformance.com/...ird-1982-2002/
https://www.foundersperformance.com/...-strut-mounts/
Shocks/ struts; the serious suspension guys on this board say go Koni. My experience, I went Koni on my GTA and with moog replacement springs, even on the softest setting, shook my spine to pieces during street driving. May be that's just london roads and your mileage may vary. But this time round my T/A come with KYB (not adjustable) and they do a good job of controlling rebound in my view during spirited street driving and for the odd track blast and are reasonably comfortable; a good compromise. KYB's are a lot cheaper than Koni's
My 2 cents.
For a suspension refresh, you'd want shocks & struts, A-arm bushes, rear control arms (cheaper to just replace the arms than the bushes), sway bar end links and front camber plates (that the struts locate into). I'd also check your steering components whilst you're getting your suspension bits done. Oh, and weld in subframe connectors
To increase the performance but keep the car fairly compliant, I'd stay away from poly bushes except on sway bar end links (where the extra firmness and longevity of poly is welcome but doesn't materially affect NVH). I like founders' extreme joints rear control arms and their camber plates and have bought from them in past
https://www.foundersperformance.com/...ird-1982-2002/
https://www.foundersperformance.com/...-strut-mounts/
Shocks/ struts; the serious suspension guys on this board say go Koni. My experience, I went Koni on my GTA and with moog replacement springs, even on the softest setting, shook my spine to pieces during street driving. May be that's just london roads and your mileage may vary. But this time round my T/A come with KYB (not adjustable) and they do a good job of controlling rebound in my view during spirited street driving and for the odd track blast and are reasonably comfortable; a good compromise. KYB's are a lot cheaper than Koni's
My 2 cents.
#4
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Re: Time to replace the suspension on my 89 T/A bit have some questions
Bouncing like a basketball is worn struts/shocks.
Springs sag as they age, but unless one sags excessively or they get stressed to the point that they break if you're OK with the ride height and spring rate then replacing them will not get you anything besides a change in ride height and spring rate. FWIW, if you have any of the performance suspension options (which most TA's do) your spring rates are pretty high already. Assuming your body is in good shape measure fender lip heights on a flat surface and as long as they're close to the same side to side they're OK (if your bodywork is questionable then you'll have to crawl under the car and measure from the body side suspension pivot bolt to the ground, harder but more accurate). Typically the performance springs don't sag anywhere near as much as the base model springs- lots of V6 sprung cars look like they're lowered, my '87 TA with factory springs (still have tags on them) and almost 130K miles sits like a 4x4 (these things sat way up in the air from the factory).
Otherwise things like worn bushings (control arms F and R, sway bar F and R on the bar and endlinks) and worn ball and socket joints (F LCA ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends, pitman/idler arm) and steering shaft linkage (rag joint, steering box) can cause sloppy feeling ride. This is mostly a get in/under there and see if the bushings are worn/try to move everything and see if anything moves.
Wheel bearings and the bearing in the top of the strut tower mount being loose/worn can cause a clunking (typically they don't cause a sloppy ride unless they're REALLY bad), and otherwise loose fasteners anywhere can do the same.
Sort version, from what you said make sure you don't have any worn out parts replace the shocks/struts and probably get a decent alignment (this is a can of worms, I'd bet that a lot of the more serious handling guys on here pay for an alignment MUCH less often than the average car guy, I've driven f-bodies since '91 and I've never paid for an alignment on one and I used to be a competitive autocrosser)
Springs sag as they age, but unless one sags excessively or they get stressed to the point that they break if you're OK with the ride height and spring rate then replacing them will not get you anything besides a change in ride height and spring rate. FWIW, if you have any of the performance suspension options (which most TA's do) your spring rates are pretty high already. Assuming your body is in good shape measure fender lip heights on a flat surface and as long as they're close to the same side to side they're OK (if your bodywork is questionable then you'll have to crawl under the car and measure from the body side suspension pivot bolt to the ground, harder but more accurate). Typically the performance springs don't sag anywhere near as much as the base model springs- lots of V6 sprung cars look like they're lowered, my '87 TA with factory springs (still have tags on them) and almost 130K miles sits like a 4x4 (these things sat way up in the air from the factory).
Otherwise things like worn bushings (control arms F and R, sway bar F and R on the bar and endlinks) and worn ball and socket joints (F LCA ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends, pitman/idler arm) and steering shaft linkage (rag joint, steering box) can cause sloppy feeling ride. This is mostly a get in/under there and see if the bushings are worn/try to move everything and see if anything moves.
Wheel bearings and the bearing in the top of the strut tower mount being loose/worn can cause a clunking (typically they don't cause a sloppy ride unless they're REALLY bad), and otherwise loose fasteners anywhere can do the same.
Sort version, from what you said make sure you don't have any worn out parts replace the shocks/struts and probably get a decent alignment (this is a can of worms, I'd bet that a lot of the more serious handling guys on here pay for an alignment MUCH less often than the average car guy, I've driven f-bodies since '91 and I've never paid for an alignment on one and I used to be a competitive autocrosser)
#6
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Re: Time to replace the suspension on my 89 T/A bit have some questions
I have the KYB AGX's. I have a lot of experience with them on other vehicles and I was not disappointed on my 86 Trans Am. I have the WS6 package so my springs, as mentioned above, are stock and pretty stiff and high from the factory. The AGX's firmed things up nicely. I run them at their highest setting and they are one step below a good coil-over but are far cheaper and have good ride quality.
GD
GD
#7
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Re: Time to replace the suspension on my 89 T/A bit have some questions
Koni's with new upper mounts, original iroc springs, bushings where needed, I like the way it rides on the softest settings all around, Has an awesome squat on high speed corners and holds like glue. Fun car to drive and can pull some g's, I'd bet it's right up there with the best of sports cars in the G force dept.. London's roads are pretty bad (think pavers) 'till you get outside of the city where it all smooths out - But it's like that anywhere, KYB for city driving, Koni for the burb's and open country...
Last edited by Camaro86IrocZ; 05-08-2017 at 03:54 AM.
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Car: '92 RS
Engine: 5.0TBI
Transmission: TKX
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Time to replace the suspension on my 89 T/A bit have some questions
I love my Koni's and moog springs. Never driven on cobblestone though.