500hp 1/4mile
12-12-2018, 10:08 PM
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500hp 1/4mile
Hey there new to this site just finish my motor build 500 hp I have yet to take it to track I was going to see if anyone have 1/4 mile time for around this hp I have no interior just a seat shifter and a steering wheel block is cast everything else alum and 28 inch tall tires
12-12-2018, 10:47 PM
#2
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Re: 500hp 1/4mile
Depending on weight, transmission, rear gear, tire, etc., you could see low 11's at 120 MPH. That low 11 is a decent drag racing package (trans/stall, gearing, shocks/springs) at 3600 lbs. +/-.
Some may have gone faster with less and vice versa but that should give you an idea.
Some may have gone faster with less and vice versa but that should give you an idea.
12-12-2018, 10:57 PM
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Re: 500hp 1/4mile
Depending on weight, transmission, rear gear, tire, etc., you could see low 11's at 120 MPH. That low 11 is a decent drag racing package (trans/stall, gearing, shocks/springs) at 3600 lbs. +/-.
Some may have gone faster with less and vice versa but that should give you an idea.
Some may have gone faster with less and vice versa but that should give you an idea.
12-12-2018, 11:05 PM
#4
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Re: 500hp 1/4mile
With that kind of gearing and rear spring/shock, you could be in the prediction earlier. There are still a few variables left to nail a time/mph down.
12-12-2018, 11:10 PM
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12-15-2018, 10:55 AM
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Re: 500hp 1/4mile
Have you weighed the car?
12-15-2018, 11:12 AM
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Car: 89 GTA ASC Conv., Prev: 89 GTA 6.3L
Engine: 5.7L L98 TPI
Transmission: 700r4 Automatic
Axle/Gears: 3.27:1 w/ JG1 Options:B2L, N10, U1A
Re: 500hp 1/4mile
Thats a pretty tall tire, so you'll need the gears.
Also depends a lot on tire compound.
Also depends a lot on tire compound.
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12-25-2018, 10:55 AM
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Car: 84 Z-28 Camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: richmond 3.73, eaton posi
Re: 500hp 1/4mile
mine has 546hp @ the flywheel, I've only gone to the dragstrip once with it and ran 126@15....but I smoked the crap out of the tires...and that's with a manual transmission
12-25-2018, 01:04 PM
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12-25-2018, 01:15 PM
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Re: 500hp 1/4mile
if I'm reading this right you ran 15 sec 1/4 mile at a 126mph pass? And that should be around 460-470 rwhp which is pretty decent which is double stock, stock was low 15 sec car I believe , is it n/a and what tire did you run sounds like it was spinning a lot haha which looks cool for show but hard to lanch on track and what rpm did you launch at
12-25-2018, 01:24 PM
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Re: 500hp 1/4mile
no not yet just weighed everything I pulled out I pulled out ever ounce of interior and put a light weight race seat in alum intake and heads and changing wing and hood soon to get it lighter but I'm thinking of putting interior back in with roll cage and thinking of turbo in summer running 15 psi and do you think that's to much gear I make power up to 6500rpm and get valve float at 7200rpm so shift point I want at 6500rpm I'm think I need to rebuild and get my 700r4 custom
12-25-2018, 02:31 PM
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Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: T56
Re: 500hp 1/4mile
Finally, somebody that drives worse than I do! 
12-25-2018, 03:02 PM
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12-25-2018, 03:35 PM
#14
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Re: 500hp 1/4mile
Obviously the weight will make a difference in your time slips. These cars at that HP level can use 1/10 gained per 100 lbs removed. So it can really add up.
If you take 84 Z-28 350's post of 126 MPH as a target, then your 4.56 geared, 28" tall tire will be in or around 7100 rpm in drive (depending on converter slip).
The turbo guys tend to run less gear as torque isn't an issue but rather traction. Something you would need to address between NA and boosted iterations.
I've a competition built 700R4 and while I could dial in the shift point automatically, it would take some valve body calibrating. Instead I shift manually when racing. Generally 6500 in 1st and slightly less into 2nd.
Valve float shouldn't be an issue as that's something that should be addressed.
If you take 84 Z-28 350's post of 126 MPH as a target, then your 4.56 geared, 28" tall tire will be in or around 7100 rpm in drive (depending on converter slip).
The turbo guys tend to run less gear as torque isn't an issue but rather traction. Something you would need to address between NA and boosted iterations.
I've a competition built 700R4 and while I could dial in the shift point automatically, it would take some valve body calibrating. Instead I shift manually when racing. Generally 6500 in 1st and slightly less into 2nd.
Valve float shouldn't be an issue as that's something that should be addressed.
12-28-2018, 09:28 PM
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Car: 1984 camaro z28
Engine: sbc 383
Transmission: Th400
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11 gear
Re: 500hp 1/4mile
Way too much gear. 3.06 first gear in the 700R4 and 4.56 with a 28" tire... You will be going through the finish line a lot higher than the predicted 7100 rpm above. For instance, I shift at 6800 rpm and have a TH400 with a brake running 10.20's at 130 mph. I have a 4.11 gear, 28" tire, and a 2.48 first gear. This gives me a starting line ratio of 10.19 when using Wallace racing calculators. Your starting line ratio is currently sitting at 13.95. Way too high. Also, you havnt mentioned anything about the engine setup, just that it has 500hp. As you can tell from the post above where there was a 15 second pass at 126 mph, there are a lot more factors in running a fast ET at the dragstrip than just having a high hp engine.
As someone who makes between 200-300 passes a year, all too often I see people show up for test and tune and make 1-4 passes a year, get mad that the car does not run what they thought it would and then take it back home and start hacking it apart again to head back to the track the next year to try and go faster. However, if they would have just done some tuning and made more passes and kept trying to perfect their current setup, they probably would have had a larger ET gain with minimal expenses.
If you're experiencing valve float at 7200 rpm, then I would change gearing in one way or another before going to the track. Then, take it and see what it does. Make multiple passes. Compare each of your intervals with where you should be and then address what part of the vehicle controls that aspect of the track. For instance, if your 330-60 foot split is slower than most, then you need to look at your 1-2 shift. If your 60 foot is slow, then look at what you need to do to get the car to hook better whether that be reduce tire pressure, make shock adjustments, longer burnout, etc.
Everything needs to work together. Rarely do people get it right in the first shot and that is why it takes plenty of passes and collection of data to get a car that should run what the calculators predict it will.
As someone who makes between 200-300 passes a year, all too often I see people show up for test and tune and make 1-4 passes a year, get mad that the car does not run what they thought it would and then take it back home and start hacking it apart again to head back to the track the next year to try and go faster. However, if they would have just done some tuning and made more passes and kept trying to perfect their current setup, they probably would have had a larger ET gain with minimal expenses.
If you're experiencing valve float at 7200 rpm, then I would change gearing in one way or another before going to the track. Then, take it and see what it does. Make multiple passes. Compare each of your intervals with where you should be and then address what part of the vehicle controls that aspect of the track. For instance, if your 330-60 foot split is slower than most, then you need to look at your 1-2 shift. If your 60 foot is slow, then look at what you need to do to get the car to hook better whether that be reduce tire pressure, make shock adjustments, longer burnout, etc.
Everything needs to work together. Rarely do people get it right in the first shot and that is why it takes plenty of passes and collection of data to get a car that should run what the calculators predict it will.
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12-29-2018, 12:40 AM
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Re: 500hp 1/4mile
Way too much gear. 3.06 first gear in the 700R4 and 4.56 with a 28" tire... You will be going through the finish line a lot higher than the predicted 7100 rpm above. For instance, I shift at 6800 rpm and have a TH400 with a brake running 10.20's at 130 mph. I have a 4.11 gear, 28" tire, and a 2.48 first gear. This gives me a starting line ratio of 10.19 when using Wallace racing calculators. Your starting line ratio is currently sitting at 13.95. Way too high. Also, you havnt mentioned anything about the engine setup, just that it has 500hp. As you can tell from the post above where there was a 15 second pass at 126 mph, there are a lot more factors in running a fast ET at the dragstrip than just having a high hp engine.
As someone who makes between 200-300 passes a year, all too often I see people show up for test and tune and make 1-4 passes a year, get mad that the car does not run what they thought it would and then take it back home and start hacking it apart again to head back to the track the next year to try and go faster. However, if they would have just done some tuning and made more passes and kept trying to perfect their current setup, they probably would have had a larger ET gain with minimal expenses.
If you're experiencing valve float at 7200 rpm, then I would change gearing in one way or another before going to the track. Then, take it and see what it does. Make multiple passes. Compare each of your intervals with where you should be and then address what part of the vehicle controls that aspect of the track. For instance, if your 330-60 foot split is slower than most, then you need to look at your 1-2 shift. If your 60 foot is slow, then look at what you need to do to get the car to hook better whether that be reduce tire pressure, make shock adjustments, longer burnout, etc.
Everything needs to work together. Rarely do people get it right in the first shot and that is why it takes plenty of passes and collection of data to get a car that should run what the calculators predict it will.
As someone who makes between 200-300 passes a year, all too often I see people show up for test and tune and make 1-4 passes a year, get mad that the car does not run what they thought it would and then take it back home and start hacking it apart again to head back to the track the next year to try and go faster. However, if they would have just done some tuning and made more passes and kept trying to perfect their current setup, they probably would have had a larger ET gain with minimal expenses.
If you're experiencing valve float at 7200 rpm, then I would change gearing in one way or another before going to the track. Then, take it and see what it does. Make multiple passes. Compare each of your intervals with where you should be and then address what part of the vehicle controls that aspect of the track. For instance, if your 330-60 foot split is slower than most, then you need to look at your 1-2 shift. If your 60 foot is slow, then look at what you need to do to get the car to hook better whether that be reduce tire pressure, make shock adjustments, longer burnout, etc.
Everything needs to work together. Rarely do people get it right in the first shot and that is why it takes plenty of passes and collection of data to get a car that should run what the calculators predict it will.
its a 383 stroker with .600 lift cam cam makes sold power mid to high rpm 200cc head and angled intake Heads and intake both ported 92mm throttle plate fuel rails and fuel pressure reg are dead headed soild rocker arms
my goal is not to see how much hp I can get although be nice to get my more
my goal is to get good 1/4 miles times
my dream is to turbo this motor and get it dialed in and swap it in a 85 monte bc the monte is my dads dream car want to built him then do a BBC blower swap in my third gen but not anytime soon just want to focus on this build right now and enjoy it
i hear good things about th450 builds but I wanted to try out either the 700r4 build or a custom t56
The trans guys i talked to said with that rear gear and tire size to go with a 2.80 first gear or little shorter what would reccomand
12-29-2018, 01:39 AM
#17
Re: 500hp 1/4mile
back in the 90s running 28" tall slicks (MT) running a 700r4 with 4.11s in a 9" was having fun (LPE stage 5 upgrade 383).. this spring adding a bit more power...with a close ratio 700R4.(6 pinon planet)the only stock GM parts are the Case & the GM 5 pinon planet. think of its gearing as that of a TH400 with overdrive..with rear gearing sets from 3.90 4.11 4.30 & 4.56 to tune with. running 28 to 29" tall tires... adding a bit more power then I did in the 90s..lol.
with the stock gearing of the 700R4 the 1st to 2nd.and 2nd to 3rd shift RPM dropped sucked and that's with a 700R4 that hit hard in all the gears..and worked fantastic..to this day when I took it out I just put it in a bag and on a shelf in the shop it worked just to good I did not want to mess with it..for this upgrade the 700R4 is all billet parts..with cryo treated case full manual rev valve body..with trans brake.No TV cable..there is now a company selling a unit like close to this type of unit for $3500
https://animalperformancetransmissio...nt=16376171393
now I have a few parts they do not..but its close to what I have.. mine was a bit more then they sell..but that's before they started selling them.. and I will test it to the 1100HP for sure..
what Im told today you can get a 4 speed auto to hold up to power... without going 4L80 $6000 trans..
with the stock gearing of the 700R4 the 1st to 2nd.and 2nd to 3rd shift RPM dropped sucked and that's with a 700R4 that hit hard in all the gears..and worked fantastic..to this day when I took it out I just put it in a bag and on a shelf in the shop it worked just to good I did not want to mess with it..for this upgrade the 700R4 is all billet parts..with cryo treated case full manual rev valve body..with trans brake.No TV cable..there is now a company selling a unit like close to this type of unit for $3500
https://animalperformancetransmissio...nt=16376171393
now I have a few parts they do not..but its close to what I have.. mine was a bit more then they sell..but that's before they started selling them.. and I will test it to the 1100HP for sure..
what Im told today you can get a 4 speed auto to hold up to power... without going 4L80 $6000 trans..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 12-29-2018 at 02:57 AM.
12-29-2018, 11:57 AM
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Car: 1984 camaro z28
Engine: sbc 383
Transmission: Th400
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11 gear
Re: 500hp 1/4mile
Do you have the engine dyno'd or did you do a chassis dyno? I am curious how you know that there is valve float at 7200 rpm and that the engine makes 500 hp.
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