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Some background - I've got my '91 Camaro on a rotisserie, and before flipping it back over I figured I'd attach a few things to the underside while I have access. K member, fuel/brake lines, fuel tank, etc. Got the K member on, threaded all six bolts in and tightened them down until they were snug (think finger tight with a half turn using a wrench, not torqued). Just enough to keep the K member in place when I roll the car back over.
Took two bolts out to fiddle with the spring perch. One went back in easily enough. The other (front driver's side, if it matters) won't thread back in. Don't see any obvious damage to the nutsert, and it wasn't crossthreaded at any point. The bolt just won't start. It's definitely hitting the nutsert, and I don't see any damage to the nutsert (although it's pretty hard to see anything in that hole). Here's the best picture I could get, which isn't really that useful.
In case it's relevant, these are new M12 1.75 10.9 bolts included with my tubular K member (which should fit, according to this thread). Threads on the bolts look fine, I even tried swapping bolts in the same hole but no luck.
Best guess is the threads on the nutsert are damaged. Hopefully it's just the first thread keeping the bolt from getting started - if that's the case, could I just run a tap through there? I don't think a thread chaser would work, since I can't get the bolt started. Or, should I look at replacing the nutsert completely- is that even an option? Just looking for some feedback before I do something dumb and make this even worse. Thanks in advance!
I would not run a tap through, it might grab the thread wrong too and then you'll be in a heap of trouble.
I had one on my car that had been crossed threaded at the start and it was difficult to get the bolt started the right way. I tried to fix it with a tap and it grabbed wrong and things got worse. I ended up having to drill out the bottom two threads.
If you could run a tap thru from the top side of the nut that would work, but that's not possible unless you drill a hole in your frame.
I would not run a tap through, it might grab the thread wrong too and then you'll be in a heap of trouble.
I had one on my car that had been crossed threaded at the start and it was difficult to get the bolt started the right way. I tried to fix it with a tap and it grabbed wrong and things got worse. I ended up having to drill out the bottom two threads.
If you could run a tap thru from the top side of the nut that would work, but that's not possible unless you drill a hole in your frame.
Running a tap through the top sounds like a good idea, I like the idea of drilling and patching a small hole a lot better than cutting the frame open to replace the nutsert. I'm not sure I would want to try drilling out the threads if I screw up with a tap.
Originally Posted by //<86TA>\\
Loosen them all and start over
Sorry if I wasn't clear - the alignment of the K member and spring perch aren't the issue. Doesn't matter if I remove the entire K member and spring perch assembly and try to start the bolt straight into the nutsert, it just won't grab.
Anyone else have any suggestions before I drill a hole in the top of my frame rail?
Just wanted to finish this story - I took QwkTrip's advice and drilled a hole through the top of the frame rail, then ran a tap in through the top. Cleared it out nicely and I got the K member bolt back in without any trouble. It was hard to tell, but it looked like the first thread (on the underside of the frame rail) was completely removed after running the tap through. I just can't understand how removing a bolt could screw up the threads so badly on the nutsert. Hopefully I'm never taking that one out again though!
