Hey all -

Those of you running bolt in subframe connectors, what are you running?

I don't want to weld in or make permanent changes to my car.

Thanks!

 

For Third-Gen F-Bodies (Especially T-Top Cars), I very highly recommend...

-Bringing the Car to a Body-Shop, to be put on a "Frame-Machine".
-Have the wonderful Uni-Body straightened and set as close to the Original-Measurements as possible.
-...O! and YES the Frame will NOT be straight if any Power has ever lived between the Frame-Rails.
-Have both Outboard and Inboard Sub-Frame Connectors WELDED in-place.
-If planing for enough Power to run faster than 10.4909s/ 9.999s...
Also have at least an 8-Point Roll-Cage installed, and directly tied-in to the Sub-Frame/ Connectors.

 

The Alston brand from TDS (Top-Down Solutions) can be bolted or welded. TGO moderator, lonsal, of the convertible forum is the owner of TDS. Very nice guy!

 

I like things to be reversible too, but this is one case where you should adjust your frame of mind.

Outer subframe connectors aren't just welded to the ends, but also stitched to the body seam all the way down the length of the bar. That's how it adds rigidity. Most people don't realize that and just weld the ends in place. It should also triangulate to the trans tunnel. And it should box in the lower lower control arm mount. Pass up products that don't do all those things.

There are also inner subframe connectors like the Alston mentioned below. Most people don't use those but they are even better that the outers. Heck, most people don't even talk about it, so props to LAFireboyd for bringing it up. These should be welded in place too. Then you can put stringers between the outers and inners and your car will be better than most.

 

You don't want to make permanent changes, but those holes you'll have to drill to bolt the SFCs on are permanent. Eventually, the bolt holes will elongate. Welded ones can always be removed with a die grinder if you really wanted to. But after installing them, you will never want to.

 

I'm planning to keep stock otherwise, the only reason I want subframe connectors is to limit rattling and twisting of the car that could potentially lead to other problems down the line.

Alston is what I'm looking for and I believe they mount using factory holes.

I understand that welding is most definitely better, but I don't have any desire to make changes to my cars that are not reversible. I do this to all of my vehicles, I just like the idea of being able to go back to a 100% stock car if that is even my desire.

I don't believe you have to drill holes for the Alston brand, I could be wrong though. I drive my car about 500-1000 miles a year, so even if I did, I think it'd be some time before they elongate.

 

Jegster Bolt-In's FTW !

 

Do you have a part number on those? I couldn't find them on Jeg's website.

 

Maybe I spoke too soon..

 

Alstons DO NOT use pre existing holes, wait til you try drilling holes on the rear sub frame w/ the LCA box close by. The angle to drill is severe....
and from the Jegs instructions.
3. Remove the door sill cover and pull back the carpet in the area of the front bracket. Using the bracket as a jig, drill 3/8” holes through the floor pan and install the bolts w/ flat washers on both sides of the bolt. Drill the frame hole at the rear of the connector through the hole in the bracket and install the bolt with flat washers on each side and tighten the lock nut.

Only the rear (LCA) is a true bolt on.

 

"Alston is what I'm looking for and I believe they mount using factory holes."
They do not use existing holes, and they will not fit perfectly, at least mine didn't, there was some cutting and grinding and reshaping to get them to sit better on the front side and back side sub frames, they were close but not close enough for my liking.

 

Most of the issues I had with my "Alston's" was the tube contacting the floor before the ends were fully seated on the sub frames. Not extreme though, but yes they are not a perfect fit. No complaints, I've had mine since the 90s and they're on a 2nd car now.

 

Yes, that's right, you have to fiddle with the Alston's to make it fit. And it might clash with the exhaust pipe depending what exhaust you have.

 

So what did you do about that issue?

 

Back then (the 90s) i had access to a pretty big press so i gently nudged the tubes so they would'nt interfere with the installation.

 

That what I was hoping, Vs "modifying" the floor.

 

Yes, i avoid modifying anything on my car when installing most anything. If i do mod anything (on the car), its usually a bolt on part.

 

If you are not going to weld them don't bother.
Without spacers inside of the frame wells they will just work loose and do nothing.