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Is this the way these things are supposed to look? I see no way to have it sit flat against the bar and the washer at the same time. The nipples are seated firmly in the holes of the sway bar.
Indeed... looks like it's stopped acoupla too many bumps.
Attention to that takes 2 forms: (1) making sure, by way of suspension setup, that the bump stop only gets hit on special rare emergency occasions (assuming you're not running in the Cup series where they tune the suspension by way of bottoming it out on the stops, which, looking at that, I'm thinking, NOT); and (2) putting one on your car that's not already dry-rotted to dust from ... 40 yrs of ... decrepitude.
Be aware though, if you take care of (1), then (2) hardly matters anymore. Order your priorities accordingly.
Indeed... looks like it's stopped acoupla too many bumps.
Attention to that takes 2 forms: (1) making sure, by way of suspension setup, that the bump stop only gets hit on special rare emergency occasions (assuming you're not running in the Cup series where they tune the suspension by way of bottoming it out on the stops, which, looking at that, I'm thinking, NOT); and (2) putting one on your car that's not already dry-rotted to dust from ... 40 yrs of ... decrepitude.
Be aware though, if you take care of (1), then (2) hardly matters anymore. Order your priorities accordingly.
passenger side looks good, for some reason it's just the driver that's torn up like that. It was likely already like that when I bought the car in 2008. I'll get a new one, seems like they're cheap enough.
I'll probably eventually get some new UMI control arms since there are no new OER ones. I've read that S10 ones will work, but when I look at ball joint part numbers on rock auto they are different from f-body. Wouldn't that mean the S10 arms have the wrong joints? Or does it matter?
It's best to install the endlinks with the suspension loaded and trimming the spacer and bolt so the eyes of the bar are at the right angle when bolted together.