hey guys.
I've been looking at subframes, most of them just look like box or tubed steel that runs along the bottom of the car next to the carjack strip, am I wrong. what if I took some boxed stainless steel and ran it along whould it have the same affect, I just can't justify spending $250-450 for just a piece of metal, I saw some for $95 from summit but you need to move your suspension, what the hell is that.

 

it'd work but why use SS, it'd be a PITA to weld

 

so all I need to do is get boxed steel and weld them up. and then paint it, does anyone have pictures of them installed. is this a good idea or am I looking for trouble.

 

how about toothpicks and duct tape

 

not to be rude but what was the point of that?

 

I was wondering the same thing, most kits seem to have pretty simple geometry if you are pretty good at welding upside down and cutting steel or more importantly have the means to do so. Have you done welding before? Arc/stick welding with thin materials seems to be a big PITA when ever I tried it. I imagine MIG is a bit easier.

I've been considering trying to con my uncle into making/welding sub-frame connectors for me this summer.

The guy with the toothpick comment probably pays for oil and brake changes.

 

actaully I've never done welding, but I want to buy a mig welder and learn how to, boxed steel tubing is not very hard to come by, is it possible to use aluminum, I'm also buying a mini compressor soon, $99 and makes 115psi, more then enought for a grinder or a d/a sander

 

My dad and I fabbed up mine SFC's in about 1.5 hours. It's not very difficult if you can weld.

 

is there any bending you needed to do, or did you just weld them straight on, how long were they and where did you start/finish.

 

Yes, can you tell us what materials you used and any difficulties that stand out in your mind?

I'm thinking of having a local shop do a set for mine, as the ready made ones are so expensive.

 

silent-neko, i just read your post about buying a mini air compressor with 115 psi. I'm not sure what setup you're getting, but i know from experience that with a die grinder you're going to need at least a 20 gal tank to keep it going. It's not really how much pressure you have, but the volume, to an extent. My grinder (ingersol-rand) works good at pressures over 80psi. Right now i have a 30 gallon tank with a 2 cylinder/gas powered engine and sometimes when i'm working i still have to wait for my compressor to catch up.

 

The only "hard" part about making the SFCs is that you have to put a little bend on the pass side to clear the exhaust. If you can get a picture of the SSM SFCs then you'll have a pretty good idea of what you need to do. As far as making them out of AL they'd have to be pretty thick and welding AL to steel is next to impossible so you'd have to bolt them on. Welding AL also makes it very soft, so if it supports a load I wouldn't recomend it. Steel is just cheaper and easier.

 

thats funny and I bet it true, he seem to be consistent
with lame comments, not a typical 3rd gen-er

The guy with the toothpick comment probably pays for oil and brake changes. [/B][/QUOTE]

 

Forget about aluminum, can't weld with a mig welder. Usually only TIG and pedal for controlling current, from what I know. Aside from the fact it probably won't bond/mix with the steel.

 

beast you can weld aluminum with mig, or more correctly GMAW as well as stick, or SMAW. the trick is matching the filler to the base metal. you can't weld aluminum to steel with any process.

 

Ede's right about that, You'll need mig wire designed for bonding the two. Flux core works fairly well, as well.

As far as the compressor goes, don't waste your time with a cheap compresser.. Even our shop compressor, which is like 5 feet tall runs out really quick with the die grinder..

Alum for the subframes sounds bad to me.. I bought the SSM ones cuz I don't feel like fabricating them, I've done enough fabricating this week to the mustang..


-- Joe

 

I admire the ambition that you all have, but it really doesnt seem worth the time or the money to fabricate a set of SFCs. Especially when considering the SSM set at $149.39, it would be hard to make it worth the extra effort.

Time vs. money can be debated all day long I guess, but I just wanted to throw in my $.02.

The SSM set is of great quality by the way.

 

well concidering how spohn subframe connectors are only $155 uncoated I find it worth the extra money buying a solid known performer. But I do admire you being willing to make your own. I am going to buy a mig myself and install my own connectors seing as how my local shop wants $150 to install the spohn connectors. I might look into making the connectors my self to buy a mig that is a higher end model than what I have been looking at. hmmmm now you guys have gotten me thinking now

 

The SSM connectors have a hole in the back to bolt into the control arm, then be welded later. I havn't tried 'em yet but dimensions wise I like the design.

They're heavy tho.. like 17lbs each.

-- Joe

 

To me 34 pounds is worth the extra stability provided by subframe connectors. Becides I can take the back seat and make up for the extra weight of the subframe connectors. How thick are most subframe connectors I was thinking of buying a more expencive mig and making my own sfc's I was thinking of using 1/8 or 3/16" 2x2" square tubing. I have a chop saw and angle grinders to make the cuts and everything.

 

Well, the SSM ones are really well designed, IMO.. I've seen some other brands of generic SFC's and they were well, generic. These are direct weld on's which is what you'd want anyway..

They are at least 1/8 inch thick steel, all mig welded corners. Enclosed box thats like 2" x 1", with flanges on the ends for welding on one end, and the other end is shaped to form the frame in the front.. (on each side).

The right (passenger) side is made of 3 sections, and mig welded (rather than bending) to cleer the exhaust.

I'm happy.. But I havn't installed 'em yet. I'll keep ya posted.

-- Joe

 

The plain uncoated SPOHN subframes are only $155.00 and look just like the SSM subframes, I have access to a complete machine shop and fab shop and I was going to fab some up but after thinking about it I decided just to buy them from SPOHN because he supports this site, I don't think SSM does.

 

The 35 pounds is a well spent loss for the increase in support, there is no arguing that once you've ridding in a car before/after. As for the time/money issues, that's always been easier to answer. Which one do you come by easier? My grandpa used to figure out how long it would take him to fab something from scratch, and multiply that by his wage. Subtract that from the price of the product. If it worked out that somebody else was going to make more than him, he would do it himself. With more complicated items you have to consider quality, but sbc's are no big whoop. If money is tight, get to work with your c-clamp and a vice. I saw one guy that was into racing. He increased the size of his sbc's, painted them yellow and they were visible (by a mere inch or two) from the sides, and it looked cool as ****. If sbcs are anything like driveshafts, increase in diameter will strengthen more than increasing the gauge in steel used too. Good luck. Don't forget to post pictures!

 

Send me your Email @ and I will send you a set of plans that some one sent me years ago. There worked great on my old 83!

 

My address is Rylos@hotmail.com