I'll be changing my front struts and adding lowering springs next week. I know the basic process for both jobs but i still have a few questions:

1. What size socket do I need to remove the spindle-to-strut nuts/bolts? In fact, are there even any bolts there or are those studs pressed into the spindle?

I don't have access to pneumatic tools so what would the next best alternative be? I was thinking about getting one of those long breaker/driver bars from Autozone. That should give me enough leverage to break those strut-to-spindle bolts loose.

2. Do I need to unhook the front swaybar when dropping the A-arm to remove the stock springs? I won't remove the A-arm pivot bolts. Instead I'll lower it when I remove the strut. I assume the spring won't shoot out and kill someone. I suppose I could put a pry bar up into the spring through the hole in the A-arm to keep it from flying out.

Whadya guys think? Thanks in advance :hail:

 

They are bolts,I forget exactly what size, but i'm thinking about 19 mm. Mabey more, but I think that's right. Those are really the only bolts you need to remove to do springs and struts, but removing the caliper and rotor makes it much easier for the 2 minutes of work. Also spray those bolts with some sort of penetrating oil and let them set. make sure to have the car on jack stands (under the frame) and have a floor jack under the a arm when you remove the bolts, then let the jack down when the bolts are removed. The spring should fall out (may require a little force). That's it basically.

 

...my strut to spindle nuts/bolts (no studs involved) were of the 15/16" variety. This in on a 1990 fwiw. Just put new struts/shocks in today, how's that for timing...

If I hadn't had my air tools I would have gone nuts. I have, in the past, gotten by with the usual breaker bar/BFH combo at my disposal. If you can get an impact socket in 15/16" you won't have to worry about cracking a regular socket while you are standing on the breaker bar

HTH, be careful banging on that crap. Experience speaking here

Peace,

Ken

 

Doesn't this make the spring fly out?

 

What about disconnecting the sway bar? Wouldn't the sway bar prevent the A-arm from dropping all the way?

 

I too changed my front struts just a few days ago. All you have to disonnect is the 2 lower bolts holding the strut (15/16), the brake line bracket (13mm), and the upper strut nut (13/16 but varies with strut). Everything was easy except the top nut on the strut. I had to rent a small compressor and impact wrench for that. The total cost was about $40. You don't need to disconnect the sway bar. It helps to have a jack under the A-arm before disconnecting the strut so the force of the spring doesn't send the A-arm flying downward when the strut is disconnected. Hope I could help.

 

No Tom P, You use the floor jack so you can let the arm down slowly so it does not pop out and kill you. of the 3 of these I did without a lift or compressor using this method, they did not even fall out, a prybar popped them out.

 

I used the same method as turningfast with no prob. I think the key is car needs to be up high enuf on stands to allow full downward travel of a-arm to which end disconnection of sway bar end link is a must. Besides, it doesn't take much effort and you might be surprised what you'll find. The end link bolts on my '91 were worn almost half into at both mounting points. At $15 a pair ES poly end link kits are a cheap upgrade. Good Luck.

 

I too will be doing my struts in a few weeks along with all front end parts. (springs , bushings , ball joints , tie rod ends, drag link and most everything else) When I put the new springs in do I need a spring compressor or can I put them in and jack the arm up? There doesn't seem like there is much room to get at the springs.

 

I got my Eibach Pro-kit and KYB GR2 struts in today :rockon:

Man, are those front springs rock hard or what? Not that I'll try this but I could probably stand on one and barely get it to compress half an inch. From what I hear the new springs should be easier to install than the old ones, right?

 

Most of the performance springs mentioned on these boards are much shorter than the original so installation is very easy. For stock springs I would use a spring compressor because of their length.

 

Right on racereno, stock type springs are tight, but eibachs and other springs (performance/lowering) springs are shorter. for the most part, you can even get stock springs in without a compressor,with a little CAREFULL fenagling with a pry bar.

 

Stuff that I thought would be hard turned out to be easy while the things that should have been easy became a pain in the rear, back and and knees .

The top nut was surprsingly easy to remove. I just stuck an allen wrench in there and lo and behold, the nut came off without any swearing, busted knuckles, or obligatory drops of blood :lala:. The lower strut bolts were equally easy.

However, removal of the front springs was a nightmare . Contrary to what I had been told, the A-arm would not drop low enough without undoing the sway bar end links. Man, were those nuts rusted on tight. Even after disconnecting the sway bar I doscovered the car wasn't high enough to let the A-arm drop all the way. Since the car was already as high as the jack would take it, my friend and I decided to bust the spring out by force. With a breaker bar inserted through the spring to prevent it from breaking our legs, my friend pinned the A-arm all the way down to the ground while I used a pry bar to snap it out. That sound the spring makes while jumping out of its groove makes your life flash in front of your eyes .

Reassembly was a breeze, except that I was too wore out by the end to even retorque my front wheels. I realized they were loose after I cam back home, did my rear springs, left for class and came back . That could have caused a nasty spill right there .

Anyway... thanks to all of those who helped me out with this job. Definitely couldn't have done it without all y'all :hail:

 

Yeah 88irocz28 I don't know how those guys did the job without disconnecting the sway bar end links. Besides when you learn what shape they're in you're glad you did. And now you know why they call them springs, it's sorta the sound they make when they fly outta there
You can see why I say that I get tha car up high enough to put my jack stands under the factory jack points. That usually gives the a-arm clearance for a full swing.
Congratulations on gettin it done without loss of life or limb. :hail:

 

When I was saying you don't need to remove the end links I was referring only to strut removal, not spring removal. Sorry if I caused any confusion.