I have code 32 showing up on my dash now. I just had a full magna flow exhaust put in, and two days later i hit a speed bump and there is now a small leak (I will fix it very soon) could this be causing the code?? its been going on for about 3 weeks (exhaust has been in for 4)
I'd appreciate some feedback as soon as possible because i want to get this fixed before i get my cam put in
thanks, Jesse
1992 RS

 

is the light on all the time or only when you slow down or something like that (mine flashes when I let off the gas... but it's also developed a code 24 and 41 since I've started tinkering around)

I've been racing with mine and I passed emissions and safety in Salt Lake City... so if yours decides to blow up or something let me know so I can avoid that fate and I'll be sure to do the same

-ET

 

Code 32. Malfunction in the EGR valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)

The EGR may be broken (diaphraghm) or passage to EGR is clogged

It won't hurt in the mean time. In the long run, you really will hurt when you destroy your o-rings. This takes on average a few months to a few weeks depending on how hard you run your engine. Without EGR, your nox levels will skyrocket and that is due to combustion chamber temperatures shooting to 7000+ degrees where the normal temp is avg 5000 degrees. Note 7000 is conservative as that's the temp nitrogen and oxygen will combust at but the actualy combustion temperature can go a lot higher up to 10000 if gunning high on the rpm and cooling issues arise. For around $30 you can get a new EGR and not look at $1000 plus later on a rebuild / 350 drop in.

 

So you're saying my engine is going to blow up?

 

Blow up is such an overly descriptive word.. I think melt suits the description better... litteraly. The o-rings melt or warp.. can't really describe it its just really ugly looking. Before that happens, oil blow by occurs at the o-rings. Cast iron stuff aren't really designed to handle high temps like that and eventually and only theoretically can blow up, but you'd loose co much compression that you wouldn't be able to get it to temps and pressures that cause the rods and pistons to break so basically it goes bust. No power no performance, just one of those motors you see on old beat up cars that spit dark clouds of smoke out the exhaust...

 

Your EGR valve works on backpressure, when you put on the high flow exhaust the EGR doesn't see enough backpressure when the computer runs it's random test, so it lites the light. Just something you have to live with when you put on a hi flow system.

 

I have no idea what work was done to my car before I bought it... I know there was some work done on the intake and the rear differential cause someone though it'd be a dandy idea to make thier own gasket/seals out of RTV silicone (sure, that's an okay idea but I'm a fan of using what you're supposed to use)

like I mentioned, my light isn't on all the time.. it's only when I let off the gas on hard accelleration and when I hit a big pothole (they're common in my area.... very)

btw, my compression is beautiful, but I'm burnin my antifreeze (prolly through a valve guide)
slade, the way you described an engine breaking down due to a bad EGR doesn't make any sense to me at all (I'm quite knowedgable in physics and chemistry) but you haven't toldus how the EGR stops the cylinders from melting and how non-egr engines run without it (I have much doubt in your 'preachings' because of this)

 

i get the code when running on the interstate sometime...runs no different. i think it may be a vacuum leak or a bad sender or whatever since the valve itself is 3 months old. yeah its funny how codes seem to start coming up after im dicking around under there.

 

Well since I've already gone through an o-ring replacement due to EGR failure, I know full well the final effects. Why an EGR is necessary is not hard and I covered it, but what it does is something I never explained and given that people just block it off I appologize for not mentioning it.

Here goes

An EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system works on the simple premise that inert gases introduced into a combustion reaction do not react and cause the combustion temperature to drop and exhaust gas is inert enough for the task. Basically by introducing an inert gas, you cut down on the temperatures because an inert gas doesn't react and having it there causes combustion chamber temps to stay below the temperatures that form NOx.

The EGR is an Exhaust Gas Recirculation system function based on many factors, one being _some_ back pressure, but the fact is there is a provision in the intake manifold design that when open the EGR system relies on manifold vacuum which will make the EGR actually scavenge for exhaust gasses. This makes the egr more dependant on manifold vacuum than backpressure. If it was dependant on backpressure then GM wouldn't be able to change the headers for their engines and have had to use the same one on a 305 TPI and 350 TPI, when in fact the 350 TPI and 305 TPI shared the exact same intake manifold, so same EGR but had different size headers that DID NOT produce the same amount of backpressure. The EGR light will come on if the diaphraghm is not functioning on the unit. The EGR will work under most loads 1000 rpm to 3000 rpm. It is not used at idle and high rpm speeds I believe, but if consistent and high rpm, may turn on. The ecm will command function of the egr during those times and if it can't do it it throws a code 32. The backpressure in exhaust is not really for the EGR but in actuality the cat. See the cat requires specific temps to fire up and if the exhaust gas freeflowed, then it would never fire. GM hasn't redesigned their cat until THIS YEAR! This year's cat has a 2 brick system each composed of different elements that allow for a more free flowing exhaust that litterally is as close to freeflow as anything ever designed.

 

tell me this....could headers, no cat, flowmaster exhuast cause the EGR not to function correctly since the exhaust flows much better? i may go ahead and take the valve itself back but i suspect it isnt the problem. probably a vacuum leak. the code didnt come on till after i resealed my intake (it leaked)

 

If you messed around with the intake, odds are you can have a leak somewhere. The EGR passages are small and can easilly be blocked or missed on sealing as to form a leak/block. Like I stated before, the EGR is only partially dependant on backpressure and relies as well on manifold vacuum to function properly. The cat is what relies on backpressure the most. With no cat though, why are you bothering with an emissions device? Its definitly not intended a street machine (well at least where emissions are a concern) and not really suited as a daily driver (1000-3000 rpm consistent where EGR functions are usually highway speeds) I'll look up some more on the total necessary values (vacuum and backpressure required for EGR function)