Well, I was going to change my fuel filter today, but turns out the threads are rusted. Soaked em fer at least 4 hrs in wd-40, no dice... Is there any tricks I could try? Should I replace fuel line (as my dad suggested)? How much do they run fer?

 

get two nice long wrenches, one to use as a backup, and one to use to turn the fitting and keep plugging away at it. Try some pb breakloose, too. Mine where heavily rusted and i just kept soaking and turning untill the fittings came apart. if im not mistaken, to properly replace the line, youll have to drop the tank as well as your rear end to gain access to where the line enteres the tank, which is a helluva lot harder then taking the fuel filter off. If the filter is really stuck, you can just leave it but thats only as a last resort.

 

Be careful man, if u twist that fuel line like i did with all that rust u will make another job of replacing that part of ur fuel line. I say if it is rusted, let the mechanics do it. I think they do that stuff for like 20 bucks.

 

Well, its rusted. I tried Wrenches, they just didnt do it (slip slip slip), so I switch to vise grips. Now I have a nice round bolt. ****, er freck...

 

id say cut it off but that would be accompanied by a nice F I R E. Get it fixed profesionally.

 

I gotta check price on fuel lines, but since they are pretty rusty, and I just spend over $400 fer ball joints/struts (dint have equipment and skill needed), I kinda need to not take her in, so i'll prolly replace some fuel line...

 

Oh man struts on our cars are EASY. You just need a floor jack and a 5/16 socket and a 5/16 wrench. Just put some pressure on the A arm (I think ) with the jack and take the two strut bolts off. Then take the top bolt off. And you better not say you paid to have shocks put on...thats even easier. You outta get a manual. It may save you some money. What kind of struts did you get?? I paid like 50$ for kyb shocks and struts...definetly worth it. Sorry alittle off topic.

I say take it to a shop and asked to have the fuel filter changed. Worse thing that happens is he tells you he cant do it because the bolts are messed up. Either that or he will put it on for a few bucks.

It was funny when i changed the first strut. That side of the car was at least 2 inches higher than the other . The original struts (were on the car for 100k) wouldnt even come up when you pushed them down.

 

Dont make me feel worse about paying fer struts and ball joints.
But The bolts...they wouldnt come off. I tried everything. wd-40, pb buster, heating em, no dice.... Anyways, I picked up some nice Monroe Sensatracs fer like 30 up front and 20 fer the rears. I am selling the car soon (to my brother), so I just need to get it decent, not sweet. I will most likely replace the fuel lines since they are very badly rusted, and I can get all the line I need for about $20, although I'll have to bend it myself. Anybody know of anywhere I can buy fuel lines that are pre-bent to fit my car?

 

I'm about to replace my fuel lines. Here are the places I have found on-line that stock them. Prices are $99 for stainless per line or $65 for OEM steel. Mine are badly rusted and I'm pretty sure they'll leak soon. Keep in mind if they are rusty toward the rear that they will pin hole leak first and the exhaust is right there. Bad combo.

Try Inline Tube on line at Inlinetube.com
or try Fine Lines Inc. at Finelines.com

I'm picking up mine on Monday from Inline (close to where I work).

As for the difficulty getting them off. I put the car on ramps so I could really get after them (more stable and harder to fall off than jacks). Then be sure to use Line Wrenches not standard wrenches. If like mine your lines are so corroded that the nuts round off, use a pair of vise grips to get a hold of them. It's a PITA but they'll come eventually.

Good luck.

 

I have the same freaking problem, except now i have a bigger problem, i just snapped the damn metal fuel line, OH MY GOSH, this is freaking retarded. What kind of crap did they use building these damn cars. I cant even put force into it without breaking something else, what a joke.

I am very disappointed with this, the car is not driveable and i really need something to drive, this is CRAP!!!

I think i am just gonna take it in, wow i am pissed. This is freaking gay!

 

Right on. Except I havent snapped the fuel line yet. Its great, I can either pay $20 and bend all the fuel line my self (can you say PITA??), or pay $65 fer OEM replacement from above mentioned source... THIS SUCKS

 

LoL, did the same thing 3 weeks ago.

 

As far as TBI goes, can rubber fuel line be used? Only in the places where you put two ends together. Would it work?

 

Not an expert, but I would not recommend rubber except as a very short term fix. Rubber will degrade when in contact with fuel over time. Also you will likely have trouble sealing to the lines. Trust the manufacturer they use steel for a reason. Later gen cars use plastic lines with snap connects, but the third gens are not set up for it.

Keep in mind you are dealing with fuel. Leaks can equate to fires especially in a car where the fuel and exhaust systems are close to each other. You don't want to host a car-b-que.

 

I just fixed her up, i got the cheapo 4$ filter instead of the 15$ POS it has in it, and ran rubber line where the metal was. Also, it has always had rubber line on my fuel lines, from the body to the filter is rubber, then from the filter to the intake, is metal again, so even before me breaking it, it had rubber about the same length as i put on it today. I am probably going to be redoing it correctly in a while, but my car is running now, so thats a plus hehe

 

But rubber lines that are made for fuel will last a while. But I was only talking about where the two lines have to mate. Just to seal them up instead of going throught the hassle of double flairing and couplers.

 

I got some universal steel tubing same diameter as the old fuel line, borrowed a flare tool and made my own custom lines...

Total cost $20 for tubing and open nuts. The flare tool didn't make the flares exaclty like gm's flare, but got some fuel rated o-rings and a little creative on the placements of the o-rings and voila a perfect seal. Took me only an hour to replace too... hardest part was probably making a perfect bend near the fuel filter but I got it perfectly using the same technique to mandrel bend exhaust pipes.

 

oh. thats good to hear. I thought it would be a PITA to bend all that line. Anything you think I should know before I go at it?