This is driving me crazy...
Code 43. I have looked with search and was wondering what I can do about it. No matter what I do to fine tune the motor, I still get it. Could it be I need to replace the knock sensor and module? If so, what parts will I need? I am tired of resetting the computer all the time.
I get ping when I push the car so I backed off the timing a bit, and the code is still occurring. Could this be because it is so hot out here in summer that it will do it no matter what I try? Will I have to get some sort of octane booster for these hot months?
I am also considering other ways of cooling it down somewhat, but I'd like to know if it actually is my knock sensor and module?
Maybe I have the wrong one?
Can someone tell me what part numbers I will need?
Perhaps there is one that is less sensitive than the one already in there. It might be bad.

Any other suggestions?

 

I just backed off the TPS and have the idle lower than before... It's lopey, but still runs... about 650 or so... I doubt it is the TPS but it could be that too. It might be adjusted wrong.
I'm just not wanting to come to a stop and have to restart the car every time I get to a light. LOL, it's close to stalling but I'm afraid if I bring the idle down any further it will stall.
I really believe it is pinging and not knock that is throwing the code, but I am wondering if there is something that can be done about it at all....
It very well could be that the gas I am using is bad, and it's the problem even though I run 91 octane. No audible pinging right now, and I am going to be watching the car closely now.
If there is a knock sensor and module that is recommended, I would very much like to know what would be suggested for this application.

 

There are two ESC tests of which either will set that code.

1) Timing is advanced (a lot) during PE to force a knock. After
two unsuccessful attempts code 43 is set.

2) If the knock counter is running away. Basically it is more then
245 counts in 3.9 seconds. If this occurs then code 43 is set.

The first one commonly fails on a modified engine. The second
one is easy to detect on a scan tool. Do you burn your own PROMS?

RBob.

 

question guys - i keep getting a code 43 (electronic spark sensor?) with my car when i lay in to it at a certain rpm with a certain amount of throttle. I thought it was a bad tps switch (like it was jumping its reading instead of running linearly) but now i'm wondering if maybe my knock sensor (which i THINK i may have bought for a 305) might be too sensitive and think its picking up a ping in my car? I can never hear any detonation and i stick PURELY to 93-94 octane....I dunno. help??

Ty

 

I was getting a code 43 when no detonation was occuring, I found that the knock sensor was not torqued correctley! I had trouble finding a factory setting so I settled on 20 ft/lbs. and no more codes!!

Tedd

 

RBob,
It is presently using the stock chip... I don't have any prom-burning equipment presently. I also have a custom Hypertech chip and it just advanced the timing more and didn't really help much at all.
I have heard that the 91 Caprice 350 TBI chip may be better for my application.... I am not sure about it, but that may or may not eliminate the code 43....

Since I have an entirely different motor than it originally came with, I did have the knock sensor changed over to a 350 knock sensor but I think it still has the 305 module....

If this is the case would replacing the module with a 350 module be the only thing I need? Or should I replace them both for peace of mind?

I am suspicious of this, and I believe if I get them both replaced it may eliminate the code 43 dilemma entirely.

About the ping... I think if I throw in 1 gallon of 100 octane to each tankful, I should be okay? Or is there a good octane booster formula I should get?

I wish Jon Prevost was out my end of the world right now *WEG* He definitely would be the person to turn to for tuning this car properly. The chip does need to be done.... I am getting probably about 70% of the full potential of the motor with the stock chip, I would guess.

I am hoping someone knows the answer to it. It drives me crazy. Until then I will just keep the computer connected and running some sort of octane boost in the short term....

I doubt if it is knocking that much. The engine is very healthy. Sounds sweet.... Just pings under load in this heat.

 

a code 43 will also set if the ecm doesnt encounter knock during its medium throttle esc self check. Band-aid remedy is to advance timing untill it dissapears.

 

Snow

Check your Spark Plug wires. Reading your problem reminds me of the crud I had to play with.
When I drive off from a dead stop, after about 2nd gear or stopped pressing the gas, the check engine light would come on.

I looked under the hood to find one of the plugs touching the block. The wire was tore up a bit, but after I replaced it and ran the wire away from hot spots, it ran even better and no codes came up.
Also, check your hot wire to the battery. It gave me a code when I found the wire touching the heat shield. After that, no code.

Hope this is to some use to you.

Good Luck

 

Not good... I have the feeling I have a vacuum leak. I checked the wires at the distributor and they seemed ok... I will check the engine plugs when it is cool enough to. Would hate to have blisters on my blisters.

 

With a scan tool (WinALDL is free) you will be able to tell whether the knock is running away or not occurring at all.

Once that is determined it will be easier to track down the problem. On ECM equiped cars a scan tool is worth its weight in gold.

RBob.

 

This sounds like what happens with my car...at 194 degrees my car has a boost and then falls flat on its face..i hear this is when the car checks for knock..anyway, what is the fix for this problem? I have a new knock sensor and esc module and i am still getting the code 43 and the timing retard at 194 degrees...anyone know what it could be or how to fix it?

 

sorry.. i dont mean to hijack this thread but would a 160 degree thermostat cause code 43?

 

Anything that prevents the forced knock test to fail to cause knock will set code 43. Too high an octane fuel, not enough spark timing, and various modifications will cause the forced knock test to fail. A failure is the inability to force the engine to knock.

From TransAm85: "This sounds like what happens with my car...at 194 degrees my car has a boost and then falls flat on its face."

This is a good description of how the engine feels when the forced knock test is run. The ECM waits until the driver is into the throttle enough for PE mode, then adds a bunch of spark timing. This is what gives the boost in power.

If the engine doesn't knock timing is pulled and code 43 set.

RBob.