demented24x7 gave me some good info on using washers to get some lift of the pod. but i couldn't get an answer on the thickness of the washers or the # used i have plenty o thin ones at home but i need to know how high to raise the pod. like 1/4 an inch or 1/8 inch or 1/2 inch... how high is enough???
thanks,
chris

 

I just used 2 of the pod gasket to raise mine. Washers I believe would allow your engine to suck dirt around the back of the pod where the fuel lines run.

Brian

 

thought it might... but it looks like the guy i bought mine from dumped sand on the intake anyway.
is there supposed to be some type of gasket between the filterbox and intake ojn the bottom? mine just sits on there with nothin under it??? i was also thinking of ceramic coating mine to keep the heat transfer down. what do you think?

 

Do you mean between the Air cleaner assembly and the throttle body? Mine has a fiber gasket around that choke collar that sits between the Air cleaner assembly and the TBI unit. On my truck I made a replacement one out of that red rubber gasket material at Advance Auto Parts and it works great. Also on the height thing, the pod can only sit about a 1/4" above the TBI unit. Which is about 2 1/8" gaskets. I tried more but I couldn't get the fuel lines reconnected to the pod.

Brian

 

well i did the washer thing two 1/16 thick washers on all three screws. it is inside of the aircleaner assembly so no dirt can get in.

 

i havnt had any probs with dirt entering. If your worried about dirt, just cut some closed cell foam to the shape of the pod and put that in with the washers. Itll fill the gap between the pod and the tbi. I cant see spending xx dollars for a piece of plastic to do the same thing. Do make sure to have the srews pass thought he foam so it cant come loose and get sucked into the air horns.

 

that would suck...

but i don't see how dirt will get in since it is enclosed
mine runs fine!!! how much power is this mod supposed to add???

 

one thing it does do is move the spray cone up onto the walls above the throttle plates for a more even fuel dist. (see clarification on fuel dist. at the top of the board) This is because the spray cone is above the blades so they cant interfere witht he spay pattern. This does move the pods up slightly but the effect wont be noticable witht he stock air cleaner since it still forces air into the top of the tb rather then along the sides as with a non drop open element. The main reason i did it was to improve fuel dist. which does make a difference because the cylinders receve more even fuel distribution. If the blades do iterfier, the rear cyl will receve more fuel then the front ones. This will cause the rear plugs to get sooty.

 

I used two gaskets. Make sure that you use threadlock on the TORX screws. If they fall down the intake, you probably will be rebuilding your motor.

 

hmmm... i probably wouldve had to use 3 or four of the paper gaskets to raise mine up as far as i did. Sits a little more then a quarter of an in. above the tb. Thats how far i had to raise mine to get the spray off the blades. Dont know if its the same for everyone else but it was for me.

 

Just measured (roughly) and two of the thick paper gaskets from my TBI rebuild kit come just under 5/16". This is actually probably equal to yours.

Again, be careful with the screws. The amount of thread engagement is markedly less than stock and it would be very easy to strip the alloy threads in the throttle body. I put threadlock on the threads and a small dab at the junction of the bolt head and pod structure. Best thing would be to get longer bolts.

 

Adding the next gasket would also raise the fuel pressure regulator up above the end piece, wouldn't it? If that was the case, it would make it easily adajustable while still mounted to the throttle body.

 

nope... the screw in the fpr is recessed into the tb... i thought the same with mine but i still have to pop the pod off to adjust it. Noty that big of a deal but still annoying. I havnt found anything that will easily fit yet.

 

Someone had a mod to make it more easily adjustable --- I think it involved epoxying a shaft that could be reached more easily.

I did a brief search but couldn't find it. It might be on a webpage other than the thirdgen site.

 

when i made fpr adjustable the whole round piece would turn with it. i thought of shaving it, so it would fit a wrench.

 

I just adjust mine by hand, no screwdriver needed.. got lazy and didn't want to drill nothing. I can get a vice grip locked on it, but lately got a small channel lock wrench and use that to adjust on the fly.

The whole round piece will rotate quite easilly after you take a channel lock to it.. saves the hassle of drilling anything.

 

Found the mod:

http://350.streetracing.org/tbi.htm

Making FPR Adjustable: Start by removing the 4 screws holding the FPR to the injector pod. Be very careful the spring inside has some force behind it. The best way to remove it is to work in an X pattern and do the screws little by little. If removed properly you can get away without damaging the stock FPR diaphragm and can reuse it. Next use a drill and drill out the spot weld on the bottom of the regulator case. Once you have drilled out the spot weld the screw controlling spring tension will fall out the back. That is what you use to adjust the FPR. Pull out your dremmel and make a slot to turn the screw with a flathead screw driver or you can use JB Weld and glue a rod to it to adjust the FPR without having to remove the tower from the TBI unit. In otherwords is a great time saver. Special thanks to scauffiel for that idea. Note: You should take your dremmel and grind a mark right under the stock FPR setting this way you have a reference point for the stock fuel pressure setting.