it first started when i was very low on gas. when i turned into the gas station the car staled out. (always does when low fuel) i start it back up to get it to the pump (no problems). fill up and try to start the car and NOTHING. i noticed no fuel was squirting from the TBI and i could not hear the fuel pump when i turn the key.

a few hours later, it starts right up, works fine to get the car home. next day when i start it up it, sputters very bad, but smooths out at higher rpms.
later that day, no fuel at all again. no sound coming from the pump, and no fuel at the TBI.
could it just be a relay? i checked and cleaned all electrical connections around the motor.


now questions about the fuel pump.
- is there any difference in a 305 and 350 fuel pump?
- i asked for a 350tpi fuel pump at the parts store anyway.
- if i were to drop an LT1 in someday, would the stock pump be adequate?
- i dont like how it stalls around corners at low fuel, i want the GTA/formula baffles, are they sold seperate? or is it built into the tank?
- im going to drop the tank tommorow, it is full, what is the best/easiest way to drain it.
- i dont have any good voltage testers, (just the cheap test light tool) can i poke into the wire near the back to see if the pump is even getting power?

thanks guys,

 

Not sayin its for sure your fuel pump because mine has never gone south, but they do use the gas to lubricate themselves and if you run out they've been know to burn up. Go ahead and install a walbro 255 in it, the extra fuel you dont need will just go back though the return line. Thats a high pressure pump, which most port injection systems operate on (45+ psi) whereas the stock pump is ~18 psi, which is only what TBI needs.

 

hmmm sounds like it could be the pump...next time it wont start go hit the tank lightly with a rubber mallet and see if it starts. Sounds like the pump to me. If it is the pump have fun...the swap sucks but some other guy on this board paid 825$ to have it done...please dont do that.

 

Spending $825 is nuts.. I was quoted $400 for mine.. I said screw that and did it myself... now that I reflect on the whole ordeal.. I would have said screw that here's the cash!!!

It's not an easy job... rear has to come down, exhaust too (had to cut mine to get it off) then the tank is a bitch to get down.. mine came down on my head. Once out, its a simple matter doing the swap of the pump use a screwdriver (don't pry just use it to release the ring seal).

Careful on getting the tank out, because of the filler neck it comes out at a weird angle and putting it in I dented the filler slightly.

Don't do what some guys on the board may suggest... cut an access panel from the inside of the car. Its under that sheet metal for a reason, to protect the passengers.

 

i would like to check the fuel pump relay. but i cant find it in my chiltons book, and i dont see it around the fuse block.
could it be way up the dash, near the fuel pump, or in the engine compartment.
thanks guys,

 

My 1991 RS fuel pump just went out. It would idle fine, but when you stepped on the gas, it would hesitate and would lunge. It really sucked. The damn pump is in the gas tank too, so like he said, the exhaust and tank have to be dropped. Being as it was a stock pump, it going bad was not a huge surprise. But I paid about 400 to get a new one (150 for part + labor). Its runnin good now though.

 

changed the relay first, still did not work. but it was only $10 and the original looked nasty inside.

then replaced the pump, strainer, and a new filter. all works well now, but i sure dont look forward to ever doing that again. (though i know i will, but it will be a high pressure inline fuel pump, sitting in the engine comp)

thanks guys.

 

you guys are saying that the rear axle HAS to come down to get the tank removed ??
how far down ??
all four arms need to be disconnected ??


hope not.,,.,. anything else i dont know thaty i need to know for this 88 TBI pump replacement job tommorrow ?


thanks

 

you shouldn't have to drop the axle too far down, just get the exhaust out of the way, then drop the axle a little and slide the take out from the passenger side, it's a pain though

 

take = tank

 

i have a feeling that there will be some "minor" exhaust pipe cutting and welding going on with this R&R

so far ive learned that the tank is 15.5 gallons and has a long and crappy steel filler pipe solidly soldered to the tank,

everythign will be corroded severely on this car, its always been in this region and the car is covered in rust and well.... hmmm.... its a rust bucket just like all third gens are! at least the rockers and lower fenders are still intact.. i noticed a parking brake cable end cut off and hanging off driver side back there, this wil be interesting job..,

thanks

 

there's only one other solution to droping the tank but alot of people go against it, that would be cutting a hole in the floor board, some people have done it (myself included) but if you ask others on the board, they swear against it

 

Before you dig into that, check your electrical connections on the post next to your radiator. I had a similar problem, and all it was that the nut that holds those elcetrical connections to the post had fallen off. I put another one back on with a lock nut, and no more problems.

The post is located on the lower passenger side of the radiator. You will notice it because it has several wires running to it.