ok guys, im new here so please go easy on me if this topic has been posted a million times.

Anyway, im getting my camaro back on friday with a rebuilt 305 in it with TBI, i was wondering what i should do first to make it faster, 0-60 in 7.9 isnt my style

Im in CA and i am only in high school with a limited budget, about 600-700 monthly, sorry bout the same old post but i just wanted to tell you my situation

 

0-60 in 7.9 seems terribly good for a stock LO3......mine was slightly over 10 before i started messin with it

IMHO gears should be the first thing you do, 3.42's and the SLP posi...

then full exhaust from the headers on back...

 

start with the free mods in teh tech articles. ultimate tbi and diy afpr.
the biggest bang for eht buck adn seat fo the pants gains you can get are from posi and gears. 3.43 or 3.73's will make a ton of difference in the attitude of teh car throughout the power band.

good luck

later
tim

 

should i buy, the holley 670 cfm TBI unit i was told it that i should also consider buying that pretty soon, i was told it would create more horsepower than the ultimate TBI mods, and you sure 0-60 is 10 sec, that doesnt seem right, even though the L03 only has 170 hp

 

I'd only look to going to a larger TB after doing full exhaust, intake and heads/cam. This is actually the order I'd mod any engine also. After the exhaust and intake change you might also want to think about reprogramming or swapping in a different chip and you'll for sure have to after a head/cam change.

This way you'll pretty much always feell like yer getting the best bang for your buck. adding a aftermarket TB now might give better throttle response but you wont get any 'seat of your pants' improvement in performance.

Oh and dont forget to change them damn rear-end gears! I'd do that before or right after getting headers. Very soon at least!

 

what gears should i go with? 3.23? i want 3.73's but then it doesnt seem to me that i could even get over 100 mph since the car redlines at like 4,500 rpm, or will it easily make it over 100?

 

yup, it was over 10, our suburban was faster, but that was completely out of tune ....now it's a little under 7 and I'm $1500 into it

the holley tb is overkill

again, let me stress...
GEARS GEARS GEARS POSI POSI POSI

you will hug yourself for doing them

 

well, seems the general concensus is gears so, what should i do? go to a junkyard or buy them from a company and if i should by some from a company, what company, and a part number would be great. thanks a lot for your help guys

 

i take it you have OD? if so you'll be ok with any of those gears, i've heard 3.73's don't mix to well with highway speeds, but still doable, i went to 3.42's and I'm not regretting it...........

if not a junkyard, look at jegs.com for the gears (and installation kit), a GM 10 bolt 7.5" rear (about 300 for gears and kit)

SLP has a posi they take off the new birds that become firehawks that sells for $99 instead of everybody else's 300+.......go to slponline.com for that

 

my vote would goto 3.42's if yer gonna be runnin on the street most of the time... I'd only go 3.73's if you plan on being at the track every weekend

 

correct gear selection is prolly one of teh hottest ongoing debates on this board. basically everyone with 3.42's loves them, and everyone with 3.73's loves them...lol
at 65-70mph the difference cruise rpm is only about 250. to me that is nto enough to worry about. there is also little/no evidence of any gas mileage difference between the two gear sets.
teh 3.73's are a touch quicker in teh 1/4 mile. that is about teh only difference.
it is really whatever you are comfortable with.
my car will have 4.09's and a spoll when it hits teh road again mid summer

later
tim

 

cool thanks for all the help, also, one more ? what the hell is up with CHP's article on the my generation camaro, it took 4,000 dollars to get it to high 15's is that what its gonna take for me to see 15's?

 

I didn't read this article but *** NO. Should be able to get there with $500-1000 in modifications... a gear/posi change and headers should get you there if well tuned.

Did they do a ton of suspension/chassis modifications or soemthing to drop that kinda cash and only get high 15's?

 

i would think you'd be in the high 15's with just the gears.....

 

now that i think about it, there wouldnt be that big of a difference in rpms from 3.42 to 3.73......i guess i should just stop to think once in a while instead of just listening to everybody else

but still going from 2.73 to 3.42 i saw a 500rpm increase @80mph, and small as it may seem in theory it was a HUGE difference in engine noise.........and my gas mileage went down 2mpg

 

ok, they took a 305 and stock it ran
17.45@78.64
K&N, FLowmaster, timing chain 17.21@80.40

Holley pump, Edelbrock intake, air cleaner 16.75@84.25

Edelbrock TES headers and 3 inch dynomax 16.29@86.59
converter

3.73 rear gear/posi 15.82@86.74

ported world s/r heads, crane roller camshaft 15.39@87.28

they also used a new block and bearings, and total change
2.06/8.64 mph

total cost
$3,903
they have also done more since then and began using nos and im not positive but i believe the best they did was like mid 14 with a 75 shot

anybody know what the deal is?

 

the deal is it's a 305... takes alotta cash to make it go... that's why it makes alot more sense to just swap and mod a 350... but if ya wanna stay stock or just prove a point a 305 can be made to be quite stout... just wont be very cost efficient.

 

sounds like a shltty 305 they started out with, i thought they ran mid 16's stock. but they do take a lot of $ to make go

if you're lookin for a speed demon, then do stuff that can be used when you swap engines, like gears headers, suspension, driveshaft, etc. that way, you will go faster now and also prep the car for the future. that's what i'm doing anyway

 

im running 15.294 @ 88.44MPH with full exhaust, 3.73s, posi, crank pulley, and some other small mods. With alittle more tuning, hopefully i can knock another tenth or two off before swapping in a 350 this summer.

 

what about buying a 335 stroker kit, i heard u can get upwards of 70 horsepower with this mod, is it worth it, and will it last

 

i would just go with a 350, you can get a brand new L05 engine for 1500 from www.paceparts.com . Im sure the market is better for a 350 than a 335 stroker. And the L05 should still be smog legal in CA.

 

i agree, the 350 will have almost unlimited potential, and can also be made smog legal (i think the rule is you can put in any size engine that was in any model of the car for that year)

is that 1500 engine fully assembled?

if not and you dont wanna do it yourself theres ones like the ZZ4 which come with everthing minus the distributor, water pump, pulley sys (i think you can use your old stuff), etc.......those are like 3500

 

this L05 is actually the 92-94caprice engine (roller assembly) and comes with everything except for the intake and fuel injection (which you can just swap right over from the 305).

 

yah, but who'd wanna use the l03 tbi on it?

 

well, the L03 TBI has the same size bores as the 350 TBI, but the 350 TBI uses bigger injectors. Ill be using the cop car 65# injectors on my engine, the stock 305 are 45#. The stock TBI with cop car injectors should be enough for the setup im am planning on: L05, LT1 cam, Edelbrock TBI intake, and the mods in my sig.

 

oh, so tbi is standard on the l05 as well?

i'd just use a carb, personally, but if you're set on using FI...

 

im not set on using FI, just set on wanting to be able to drive my car in California

 

well then you should use soda straws for your intake and exhaust

 

why not use a turbo then? dont they make the car run more efficiently?

 

when i say California, i mean SMOG testing.......Rookies

 

i realize i just started posting but ive been reading for about a year now

im not sure what i said that was stupid.......correct me if im wrong but smog testing is a measure of how efficienty a car runs, ie how much pollution it puts off, and a TURBO will make a car MORE efficient by recycling exhaust and DECREASING SMOG

and the engines like mine (l03) use tiny intakes, cams, and exhaust to make them pollution efficient, hence the soda straws comment

i realize i make myself look like a dumbass quite frequently but.......

 

not trying to make you feel dumb, just, we have strick emissions laws which include visual tests, you can fail just buy not having the THERMAC hooked up with you stock air cleaner assembly.

 

MOVE.

 

is the thermac the heat riser tube, thats what i got called on, the thing had a hole and those ***** saw it and i failed visual inspection

and guys i asked about the 305 cause thats what i have and its too late to get the 350 (could have got one for $400 more but had issues with my dad), so should i just focus on drivetrain and exhaust and then save up for an engine change?

and how does $600 sound for the 3.73 gears and a limited slip unit, all new, and how hard is installing the gears and the unit

sorry bout all the stupid ?'s and i really appreciate everyones help

 

i probably paid about 700 installed for my gears and posi: 100 SLP take off posi, 180 Richmond 3.73s, 120 Ratech Installation kit (deluxe) and i paid 300 for the installation. There are a few special tools that you need to use to get the gears set up right, i do all my own work, but didnt trust myself doing these. The were the best mod so far, like night and day, knocked about a half second off my ET.

 

i am definitely going to be doing the gears first i have heard nothing but good things and i want a lot of bang for my buck

and i will be looking forward to having two footprints on the ground

 

you'll spend about 450 in parts (including shipping) and then anywhere from 175 (i made out like a bandit) to 400 (if they're evil) for installation.......oh, and another 125 or so for parts (and labor unless you wanna do it)....... to correct your speedometer. if you dont know what i mean by the speedometer being thrown off, go check the transmission/drivetrain board, i just spent like 1000 words explaining it, id rahter not again

you might have to ask a few places before you find someone that will do it. sometimes they have take the gears in and out a couple times to get a good set and it can end up being unprofitable for them and some people dont do it

and when you get it back, take it easy on it for a while. the richmond instructions tell you to drive it in 10 min spurts because the new stuff will get hot. other guys on here have said to let it have as much as 1000 miles to break in. but i drove gently for about 50 then litem up and i've had no problems so far, 2500 miles later

good luck with it

 

cool, i think ill be ordering what i want in about a week or two, ill tell everyone how it comes out

 

If yo do get the slp diff for 100.00 then make sure you get a 3-series gear set

 

i dont know a ton about cars, whats a 3 series gear set

 

im not sure i completely understand this myself, but its about the size of the differential and the ring and pinion. a 2 series is anything below 3.08 gears, and the 3 series is above 3.08. your open rear is a 2 series carrier with 2 series gears (2.73), but the SLP posi you'll be getting is a 3 series carrier and thus you need the 3 series gears (3.42). somebody correct me if im wrong. if you order from jegs it will say this on the item description. you can run the part numbers by us and we can make sure you're getting the right thing

 

allright, cool i dont want to mess up and have to wait a long time to get the parts, and i just heard from the shop, im getting my camaro back today

 

did you read what they said about the car

"The Camaro needed some work. First, Tim replaced a couple of dead plug wires. Then he discovered the catalytic converter was plugged when the engine wouldn’t run over 2,000 rpm in any gear. A quick call to CarSound for a stock replacement catalytic converter got the Camaro up and running, and with a few more dollars for smog and safety inspections and new plates, Tim was driving his resurrected Camaro for just over $500."

and its a lg4 not a lo3. thats carburetored not tbi