What are your guys opinion of removing ~1/2" on the center divider (like rpm air-gap) and adding some texture (ribs or bumps) to the manifold's floor. Would there be any neg. effects of removing part of the divider? I was thinking/planning on using that epoxy putty to create the ribs. The stock TBI intake has these ribs too. I have the preformer intake manifold.

Here's a pic of the RPM air-gap:

 

removing the center divider allows it to pull air from both sides if it needs more air. That intake is plenty as-is for a tbi so I doubt you'll see any gains.

 

It sounds like a good experiment to me. What's the worst that can happen....you don't notice anything? Not like the re-sale value of a performer is worth much . The divider seems to be positioned such that air/fuel is passed between only when you go WOT or when there is no low pressure in that area from the air moving to fast normal to it's passage. That's how I figure it. So you get the effects of a dual plane intake during high vacuum situations. However ALL the dry-flow testing I've seen says there can't be any passage larger than a dime else the effects are deminished. I think the shape and location are good ideas, just wish there was public avail research.
So my deal is do it just don't make it too large.

 

Do not, I say do not put any epoxy putty inside the intake. There is a good chance that it will end up in the cylinders and cause a big head ache. You might use a die grinder or dremel tool and cut some ridges on the bottom just don't go to deep.

Steve

 

Does epoxy putty not bond like reg. epoxy? Why not? It's not a very high temp. area. Could you elaborate a little.

 

If anything, leave the bottom as is but I too wouldn't put any epoxy on a flat surface where it might be able to come off. Only time epoxy would be safe to use is when it can go through a hole or complex corner. That way there is no chance of it coming loose and even if it does you'll have a vacuum leak before a bent valve. An alternative might be using some stainless screen you can pick up at a hardware store. Get some self small screws and attach the screens to the floor of the plenum. That should create enough vorticies of air to keep the fuel from puddling up and even then the fuel wouldn't run as fast to the back of the clinder wall under accelerations.

 

Instead of machining the center rib, wouldn't it be easier to fit an open center carb spacer?

 

Possibly, hood clearance maybe though? The carb to TBI spacer I have is an open style but it's only about 1/4"-3/8" before the manifold, I'll look into that. thanks.

 

That's a good idea.