ok,acting like lots of air pressure is causing this within the manifold ...what would cause this....dist is in right... ...the lil line on the harmonic balancer was on the very top....12 oclock position, ...thats T\dc right??? i put the dist in BOTH ways, messed with EVERYTHING ...still no start, ...new cap, dist, coil, ignition module, plugs and wires.....WHY!!!!!

 

speeking from experance it sounds like a timing type problem the rotor should be pointing at the #1 wire on the cap when the timing mark is approx at 0 deg just after the intake valve closes when the engine is on the compression stroke make sure that the #1 piston is not at TDC on the exhaust stroke (I have done this) then make sure your fireing order is correct 18436572
Hope this helps
Ryan

 

i did that..!!! thats when it shoots gas out the tbi...that AND i accidently had all the wires on bass ackwards and all you heard was BOOM when i ried to crank the car...hope nthing got torn up

 

quick question: is the battery charged? i know it sounds stupid, but when i went to go start my car up, it wouldnt crank over and gas would just spray out like air pushed it. turned out not enough juice to turn the starter over completely, so the crank would go back to where it was and push air out. charged the battery, everything was fine, besides me feeling kinda stupid

 

Sounds like a timing issue. It can be a PITA, sometimes it's easier to get it started by SLOWLY turning the dist, while cranking the engine. Watch out for backfire though. That's probably what the "boom" heard inside the manifold was.

 

this was like....a damn explosion.....that mean my engine is dead? can it kill my engine? my batt sat and charged for an HOUR off of another car, know it isnt the batt.....all the wires are ran ti the correct plugs....EVERYTHING is new!!! plugs wires dist cap coil rotor....BOOM!!!!! wtf!!!! now im scared to touch it, ...second boom scared the crap outta me....i seriously hope it didnt kill anything....***....this is a PITA seriously....i dont wanna do it, but im about to make a shop fix it,...i think its funny how i can swap a cam and everything FLAWLESSLY, yet this?? nooooooo.....funnier part is.....the dist had to come out when i put the cam in!!! i dunno what this is!! ecm die?? *** help!! lol this sucks!!!! no more backfiring!!! smoke came out my tbi AND exhaust....

 

Take off a valve cover and rotate the crank until the #1 piston's intake valve opens and then closes. When it closes and the exahust valve hasnt opened yet thats when you wanna put your distributor back in. The timing mark should line up at that point. Im almost 100% sure you're 180 degrees off man. Good luck.

Let me add that this is kind of a ball-park idea of where to find tdc, just to see if you're off or not. At home I have a schematic of which valves are open and closed when #1 is gonna fire, but I cant seem to find it online.

 

The funnier part is when you open the throttle a little while cranking and get a fireball out of the TBI and little carb/TBI fire starts that you have to blow out.

Could also be your valve lash is way too tight. The engine doesn't like that either.

 

valve lash is ok, this all started 4 days after the cam install...valve lash was set with the engine running to 1/4 turn AFTER they stopped clattering...

 

So you had the engine running after the cam install for 4 days? What did you do/remove from when running? Ever hear the saying "If ain't broke don't fix it"?

 

well, it would run fine , then id shut it off, and crank it again....and its run like crap....so i was trying to track down that problem

 

If it ran fine at one point then it shouldn't be any mechanical things like timing, lash, etc, since they shouldn't change.

Maybe it's the new ignition module( just a guess). I was (and I assume most others) under the impression that you just did a cam swap/pulled dist. and couldn't get the car running again.

 

no noooo i took the dist out to put a new one in after it started runnign like crap...thats where the timing problem comes into play, if indeed it is that....because i put the new dist the exact way the old came out....heh ...so to clear up any confuisio, the cam is in and it was running perfect, ..then started running like crap 4 days afterwards AFTER id shut off myt car and start it again....it would run fine the first start up of the day...

 

that happen to me but when i had someone start it i was under the hood fire ball came from throtle body and scarde the **** out of me. well my prob was out of time and sparck wires going wrong way.

redo TDC my way take out #1 spark plug out place finger in hole and crank engine over until you feel air come out. then point your rotor from dist. towars #1 cylndr. then make sure you spark plugs are in correct order and going clockwise not counter clockwise.

just try redoing everything to see if that helps

 

ok i fixed the timing, ..my previous problem still exists...so here goes, ....car will run FINE, all day long, until i shut it off, and crank it again, after tha it runs ROUGH as hell and just dies.....once again, ..itll fire right u and run fine if the car is cold.....but after its hot, and i start it again, ..sputter sputter .....glug....dies....any clue anyone??

 

did you install the distributor with the balancer marker at the 0 point or at witht the balancer marker pointing at the cam gear? if you installed it at the cam gear you need to pull the distributor and set it in with the balancer marker at the 0 pointer on the compression stroke

 

If the car runs good when it's cold and only starts to run bad when he restarts it hot, then it's not a distributor problem.

Question, when you start it cold, will it run good even after the temp comes up to operating range? Then only run bad after you have driven it for a while, then shut it off and restart it?

Steve

 

AMEN ..finally someone gets what m saying, ...from a cold start, ...all the way up to 180 degrees start, ...the car runs perfect, ....through all temp ranges, ...but when i restart, ....if the engine is hot, ...its craps out...glugs ...bogs down, ....and if i hit the gas, itll even out the idle, then go back to normal......ive replaced the MAP, engine temp sensor, dist, cap, rotor, coil, wires, plugs, ....egr valve works correctly, no vaccume leaks...now what???

 

I don't know if this will help but try resetting the ecm. Either disconnect the battery or pull the ecm fuse next to the battery.

Steve

 

did you peplace the module. it sounds like a classic bad ignition module

 

you wouldnt believe what i have replaced, here goes the LIST heh...MAP, IAC, EGR solenoid, engine temp sensor, caps plugs wires dist, ignition module, rotor, o2 sensor, checked every @#$%ING hose and wire!!! NOTHING!!!!! HELP!!!!!

 

what ignition module did you use? the ones you get from parts stores are pretty sorry. go get one from the chevy dealer. more expensive but will work. other than that i am at a loss. maybe you can find vader to help out with this. he posts mostly on the enine/general section.

 

ignition module came with the dist