Im puttin on my headers today and when pulling out the right side (passanger side) header i noticed that i brock some sort of sensor on the block of the engine. Its toward the back below the sparkplug and noticed i destroyed it when taking out the manifold. Is this a knock sensor or oil pressure im not sure could you guys please help?

 

fan switch... youll need a new one not to overheat

 

ah crap so now i need a fan switch i hope i can get the thing out

 

When I was pulling my exhaust manifolds I broke the plastic around the connector for the fan switch. I think NAPA Echlin(sp?) has a fan switch with connector and pigtail. If I were you I'd replace both. The connector is probably brittle from all those years of hot/cold cycling.

 

Good luck finding a replacement. I tore my plug/wire to pieces on accident when doing my head swap. None of the parts stores around here had the part that i broke. Just the other temp sensor.

I've wired in a manual toggle switch for my fan and mounted it on the dash anyway so I don't have that problem. I like keeping mine running at 180 with the flip of a switch.

 

the hypertech FS i nought had the pigtail connector included. Came in real handy when i broke it taking my acc. bracket off (FS is in the intake manifold).

 

I've found the pigtail (new connector) at pep boys here. Seems like everybody carries new fan switches. If you decide that now is a good time to get a colder switch, that may be more difficult to find and may have to order that. Stock ones are easy to find though. Search around, I know part numbers have been listed for them before if you want em.

 

yeah i just got the stock 1 i think the only other things im gonna do to my car is a posi and maybe a chip.

 

Happened to me 2, now I just keep my heater turned on, even tho i ripped it out still turns the fan and all i have is like air blowin in, kinda annoying but ill live.

 

i found a connector for the fan switch at carquest, fits great, dont have the part number though.

Oh yeah, who hasnt ripped that wire out when doing headers???

 

I FINALLY got my full exhaust in took me 2 and a half days for it! Reason being
1) i never installed header's before
2) its hard working in the rain under a car cover
3) broke the O2 sensor the fan sensor and the fan sensor wiring harness
4) sister asked a question to then i forget to get the drain pan before removing the fan sensor, boy those things sure hold alot of anti-freeze then spent a half hour hosing it down
5) the rear bolts and spark plugs are hard to get to(with my fat arm)
6) the y-pipe didnt want to line up at all i still think its a little off
7) givin up on the cat back and drivin to the muffler shop with only the cat since it was a monsoon outside
All i got left is to finalization of the wires need to buy plug wire heat sheild and double check most bolts, and to top it off i got my TBI spacer and injector spacer in the mail today AFTER i put away all the tools owell another day i guess. At least i know how to improve my timing for the next one and how to weasel them in better. I got my sensors at carquest they had the o2 fan switch and the connector to the fan switch cost like 53 bucks not sure if i got ripped i just wanted to get done.

 

o yeah
8) breakin 1 of the spark plugs then "trying" to get it tback out and find an old 1 from the trash can the old 1's really arent that bad.

 

is there an easy way to replace the fan switch?

 

ah with my after market headers it isnt too bad all you do is jack the car up and its on the right side of the block, im not sure how tight it is on stock headers. I would think that their enough room to get a box end wrench in just be careful not to break the connector that goes into like i did but the carquest had that to. O yeah drain the coolent a little since when you take it out a hell of alot of anti-freeze will come out.

 

ok sounds good, i looked up (from the bottom) and it didnt look like there was alot of room.

 

the whole engine bay doesnt have alot of room!

 

IIRC, I changed the fan switch from underneath with the appropriate wrench when I had stock exhaust manifolds and AIR hoses. After installing headers without AIR, it is easy from above (oh yeah, I used an elbow so it aims up now instead of at the header tube). I think that is only an issue with SLP 1-3/4 though.

53 bucks for the connector? Just a single wire with a little plastic clippy thing on the end? I though it cost about five bucks.

 

i also got an o2 sensor a fan switch sensor and the fan switch connector.