hot water control valve
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From: Kalamazoo
Car: 89 iroc
Engine: 355 TPI FINALLY
Transmission: 700r4/ SHIFT KIT
Axle/Gears: 3.42
hot water control valve
I've got an 89 iroc 305 TBI, can I do away with this valve that sits on top of the pass side valve cover? It water lines that go to the firewall and tee's with the radiator.
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From: San Jose, CA
Car: 2002 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23
get rid of all the hoses and the valve....then run a hose from the water pump to the heater core and one from the heater core to the back of the intake manifold.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 344
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From: Panama City, Fl
Car: '89 Formula, '97 Z28, '88 Formula 350
Engine: 305 TBI(LO3)
Transmission: TH700R4(MD8)
I have been thinking of a way to move that thing to the back or get rid of it. But don't it keep hot water out of your heater core when the heats off? The way I see it if you remove it you will have heat all the time, you think? At least thats what I thought the vacum line went to it for, huh? You could shorten the hoses on it pretty easy it looks to me and at least get it out from the front of the engine. Why that thing is up front I'll never? But I sure don't like it though.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 435
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From: Huntsville, Al
Car: ‘92 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I think you can do what VJO suggests if you have an outlet on the water pump for it. The only one I have is for the lower radiator hose.
That valve diverts the water to either pass back to the radiator if it is closed or directs it to the heater core if the valve is open. The water comes off the intake.
Why GM did it this way, I don't know. Maybe it had to do with the serpertine system.
The only trouble you might run into is trying to shorten the vac line. But I don't know why you couldn't shorten the other stuff to clean it up.
That valve diverts the water to either pass back to the radiator if it is closed or directs it to the heater core if the valve is open. The water comes off the intake.
Why GM did it this way, I don't know. Maybe it had to do with the serpertine system.
The only trouble you might run into is trying to shorten the vac line. But I don't know why you couldn't shorten the other stuff to clean it up.
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
You sure your running an IROC? Thought they all came with TPI? Is that valve on them too? 
(no flaming, just curious)

(no flaming, just curious)
Last edited by 90RS305; Mar 12, 2004 at 11:53 PM.
Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 344
Likes: 3
From: Panama City, Fl
Car: '89 Formula, '97 Z28, '88 Formula 350
Engine: 305 TBI(LO3)
Transmission: TH700R4(MD8)
He's problaly got an IROC. They came one year with an opition of 4bbl, 4bbl HO, TBI or TPI. Maybe just one less motor opition, can't remember was just reading it though at http://www.f-body.org
They have some real good reading there as far as what and how many was made this or that year. Lots of other good stuff too. Just not the hard core type of support we have here though.
They have some real good reading there as far as what and how many was made this or that year. Lots of other good stuff too. Just not the hard core type of support we have here though.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
Ohh OK, didn't know that. I looked at the link but couldn't find where you saw the production #'s. I'm still looking for the actual production number of the V8/5Speed Gun-Metal Grey 90 camaro's. Don't think I'll ever find that...
Yikes! Mod taking over thread! Back to topic!!!
From what I've seen the whole heater valve delete take a grand total of an hour to do. I think there might even be a tech article on it...
Bruce (90RS305)
Yikes! Mod taking over thread! Back to topic!!!

From what I've seen the whole heater valve delete take a grand total of an hour to do. I think there might even be a tech article on it...
Bruce (90RS305)
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,070
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
Here, dug these up for ya, HTH!:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...r+valve+delete
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...r+valve+delete
(yes, it's 2 different threads)
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...r+valve+delete
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...r+valve+delete
(yes, it's 2 different threads)
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
i'm going to link the picture from the other post....
basicly when i did mine, i connected hose 2 and 3, with a junction behind the head. then plugged the outlet on the hose by the frame in hose #1, works like a charm, heater and everything works perfectly.
basicly when i did mine, i connected hose 2 and 3, with a junction behind the head. then plugged the outlet on the hose by the frame in hose #1, works like a charm, heater and everything works perfectly.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 120
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Dewey,
Hey thanks for the pics. Let me just see if I have this right. When you are looking at the engine bay from the front. There are two hoses on the firewall, one behind the head on the manifold. So you connected the one behind the manifold to the the number two hose on your diagram. Then you pluged the the 90 degree junction on the framerail and that was it?
Bill
Hey thanks for the pics. Let me just see if I have this right. When you are looking at the engine bay from the front. There are two hoses on the firewall, one behind the head on the manifold. So you connected the one behind the manifold to the the number two hose on your diagram. Then you pluged the the 90 degree junction on the framerail and that was it?
Bill
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
yes, i got a cap for the T fitting on the frame rail. i then got a 90* elbow and used that to connect the other two hoses together.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 278
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From: Greenfield, WI
Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/eaton posi 3.73
I just read all of the stuff posted and the links, and got to thinking. Could a bad heater control valve be the cause of a re-ocurring over heating problem??? Some days my car will run perfectly but then it will start to boil over. Or am I just reading to far into this...
Member

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 435
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville, Al
Car: ‘92 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Reading the other posts about this has started me wanting to do this too. My engine is pretty much stock externally, so where can I reroute the hoses? I looked at the pic links, but they didn't really show anything. I looked at my water pump today and there isn't any outlet other than for the lower radiator hose nor is there anything at the front of the intake. Is there a good schematic and/ or pics somewhere (other than those above)? I can probably figure it out, but I like to have something to reference.
Thanks
Thanks
Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 344
Likes: 3
From: Panama City, Fl
Car: '89 Formula, '97 Z28, '88 Formula 350
Engine: 305 TBI(LO3)
Transmission: TH700R4(MD8)
What does the small vacum line do?
I fooled with this on my '84 Camaro(don't remember forsure what I did) and I had hot air coming coming out the heater unless I turned the AC on.
None of ya have had this happen? I might try it if not. Just don't want heat all the time, it gets hot enough here in Panama City, Florida.ytttttttt
I fooled with this on my '84 Camaro(don't remember forsure what I did) and I had hot air coming coming out the heater unless I turned the AC on.
None of ya have had this happen? I might try it if not. Just don't want heat all the time, it gets hot enough here in Panama City, Florida.ytttttttt
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Chevypower,
Where do you live in Panama City? I am over in Ft Walton Beach. Hey is there local f body club that meets up around the area?
Thanks bro
Bill
Where do you live in Panama City? I am over in Ft Walton Beach. Hey is there local f body club that meets up around the area?
Thanks bro
Bill
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Originally posted by Pepsicola
I just read all of the stuff posted and the links, and got to thinking. Could a bad heater control valve be the cause of a re-ocurring over heating problem??? Some days my car will run perfectly but then it will start to boil over. Or am I just reading to far into this...
I just read all of the stuff posted and the links, and got to thinking. Could a bad heater control valve be the cause of a re-ocurring over heating problem??? Some days my car will run perfectly but then it will start to boil over. Or am I just reading to far into this...
Guess what. I haven't had a problem since.
Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Greenfield, WI
Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/eaton posi 3.73
Originally posted by AJ_92RS
Yes it can. Mine did. The dit ships at AutoZone thought I was stupid and said "That won't fix the problem. Your t-stat is stuck shut."
Guess what. I haven't had a problem since.
Yes it can. Mine did. The dit ships at AutoZone thought I was stupid and said "That won't fix the problem. Your t-stat is stuck shut."
Guess what. I haven't had a problem since.
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