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Best base to start a motor upgrade?

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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 05:34 PM
  #1  
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From: Albany, NY Area
Car: Red on Red 89 RS
Engine: LO3 305 TBI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt / 2.73
Best base to start a motor upgrade?

I was planning on a ZZ383 crate Motor, but I dont want to run into "issues" on the swap.

Would it be much easier to get an LO5, strip it down, and have it bored and stroked, slap some good heads on it, etc etc?

My concern is retaining all of the stock components under the hood and keeping it looking like a fairly stock LO3.

Ideas?
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 05:36 PM
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From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
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Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
A good base? Learn how to tune it yourself...
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 06:01 PM
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From: Albany, NY Area
Car: Red on Red 89 RS
Engine: LO3 305 TBI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt / 2.73
That wasn't my question.
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 07:32 PM
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Car: 91 Caprice Wagon
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I guess the real question is........

Can you build the motor that you want for less than the cost of the ZZ383?

The tuning and installation, should basically be the same. shouldn't it?
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 09:13 PM
  #5  
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From: Albany, NY Area
Car: Red on Red 89 RS
Engine: LO3 305 TBI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt / 2.73
Would it be EASIER to start with an LO5 is really my question.
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 10:50 PM
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From: South Carolina
Car: 91 Caprice Wagon
Engine: L03
Transmission: soon to be T56
easier than what??? Other than 2/4 bolt differences, a 350 block is a 350 block.

What are you worried about with the ZZ383??? Accessory mounting??? Tuning???
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 11:32 PM
  #7  
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From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
Re: Best base to start a motor upgrade?

Originally posted by jimp2001
I was planning on a ZZ383 crate Motor, but I dont want to run into "issues" on the swap.

Would it be much easier to get an LO5, strip it down, and have it bored and stroked, slap some good heads on it, etc etc?

My concern is retaining all of the stock components under the hood and keeping it looking like a fairly stock LO3.

Ideas?
The blocks are the same, so you won't run into swap "issues", except for the lack of tuning. Building or buying, that's a question you gotta answer yourself depending on what you want. IMO, it would be much easier to just buy a ZZ383, have it shipped to you and be done with it. But just because that would be easier doesn't mean it's your best option...
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 02:59 PM
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi w/Disc
I've heard that the factory 4-bolts were a lot weaker than if you get a 2-bolt & then have it machined for 4-bolt caps. That's my big take on the matter...

How much power do you want to produce?
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 06:08 AM
  #9  
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From: Buckhannon, WV
Car: 84' Monte
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: ferd 9" posi 3.50 gears
The 2-bolt vs. 4-bolt arguement is completely moot for anything under 600 HP. Over 600, and you just need studs. I seriously doubt you'll ever have any problems NA.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 09:41 AM
  #10  
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From: Albany, NY Area
Car: Red on Red 89 RS
Engine: LO3 305 TBI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt / 2.73
I'm looking to get from 400 - 500hp naturally aspirated with TBI, also thinking about a blower to make that mark.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 09:50 AM
  #11  
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From: Dixon, IL
Car: RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by jimp2001
I'm looking to get from 400 - 500hp naturally aspirated with TBI, also thinking about a blower to make that mark.
what happened to stock look?
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 09:50 AM
  #12  
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by jimp2001
I'm looking to get from 400 - 500hp naturally aspirated with TBI, also thinking about a blower to make that mark.
you better be thinking of some kind of power adder.. because you wont do that N/A


Originally posted by jimp2001
Best base to start a motor upgrade?
stock genIII or genIV motor.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 10:03 AM
  #13  
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From: Albany, NY Area
Car: Red on Red 89 RS
Engine: LO3 305 TBI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt / 2.73
**** I'm about to give up and just go carb...
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 02:56 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Why? You haven't reached any problems with TBI why would you go carb, and how would that solve any issues?

You need establish exactly what kind of motor you want, 350 or 383, what heads you want, what induction, if you want to build it yourself from a standard 350 block or buy a crate motor already assembled. These are things you need to decide on your own, everyone has a lot of opinions because there are a million ways to get to that horsepower level. Decide what you want the most.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 04:39 PM
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assuming the level of HP will be the same a 383 should be easier to tune than a 350.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 07:27 PM
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speaking of issues.... I noticed that the bolt pattern on the passenger side head on this pic of a ZZ383 motor does not resemble the pattern on the LO3 heads I have. namely this won't allow the stock accesory bracket to bolt on. am I wrong?
Attached Thumbnails Best base to start a motor upgrade?-zz383.jpg  
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 07:31 PM
  #17  
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From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
Originally posted by MrDude_1
you better be thinking of some kind of power adder.. because you wont do that N/A




stock genIII or genIV motor.
I hate to jump on this bandwagon (not really), but I do have a Gen III motor. Look at the numbers these motors are making. Look at the driveability of these motors. Look at the MPG these cars can do. Now, why on earth are you going to dump any money on that Gen I block? Save your pennies, keep saving your pennies until you have enough to do it right. I promise you in the end you will be happier.

I say that to you becuase of the goals I see you trying to reach...
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 07:31 PM
  #18  
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From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
Originally posted by chesterfield
speaking of issues.... I noticed that the bolt pattern on the passenger side head on this pic of a ZZ383 motor does not resemble the pattern on the LO3 heads I have. namely this won't allow the stock accesory bracket to bolt on. am I wrong?
You are wrong.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 09:15 PM
  #19  
jimp2001's Avatar
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From: Albany, NY Area
Car: Red on Red 89 RS
Engine: LO3 305 TBI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt / 2.73
So If I go and buy a crate 350 from GM...
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku (I know its only 330hp)
All of my stock components will bolt right up (sensors, etc)... and all I'll have to do is tune?

(I'm already planning on using a 50mm TB, Edelbrock TBI intake, and 55# injectors... and I know I'll need a new fuel pump)

Last edited by jimp2001; Oct 18, 2005 at 09:28 PM.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 10:41 PM
  #20  
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Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
350 knock sensor and ESC module. Plus I'd get bigger injectors than 55# and the Edelbrock intake will not fit that motor. You need an intake that fits Vortec heads, like the GM Vortec TBI intake. Then yes, tuning. TBI can easily support that motor.
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 07:34 PM
  #21  
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Car: 91 Caprice Wagon
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Transmission: soon to be T56
The Edelbrock Voretc intake will fit...........
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 07:54 PM
  #22  
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Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally posted by brodyscamaro
I hate to jump on this bandwagon (not really), but I do have a Gen III motor. Look at the numbers these motors are making. Look at the driveability of these motors. Look at the MPG these cars can do. Now, why on earth are you going to dump any money on that Gen I block? Save your pennies, keep saving your pennies until you have enough to do it right. I promise you in the end you will be happier.

I say that to you becuase of the goals I see you trying to reach...
Look at the MPG my gen1 engine can get. Keep the cam very mild, makes sure that you have the best flowing head you can in the smallest port possible, build the bottem end to close tolerances, and tune the fuel system to be exact. You will get good power and good MPG. My next engine will be a 500 FWHP @ 5,000 and 550 ft/lbs @ 3,500 TBI 383 with Dart Iron Eagles 200 cc heads on it, a very mild roller cam, and TBI. I am looking into getting into the mid 14s with that engine combination. When the gen III can do that and get 18 MPG (estimated at this point in the CarTest program that has been very accurate with MPG and performance so far with my other combos) in a 5,300 lbs unareodynamic van with 3.73 gears let me know.
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 11:46 PM
  #23  
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Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Originally posted by jimp2001
So If I go and buy a crate 350 from GM...
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku (I know its only 330hp)
All of my stock components will bolt right up (sensors, etc)... and all I'll have to do is tune?

(I'm already planning on using a 50mm TB, Edelbrock TBI intake, and 55# injectors... and I know I'll need a new fuel pump)
Im thinking of saving my money up for this to install in my camaro.
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