Base Timing
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Car: 1995 Tahoe
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 4L60E
Base Timing
(this is for a '95 Tahoe TBI 350) I want to advance my base ignition timing. I can't read my timing marker (its kinda rusty) but it seems that everyone runs 8*-6* advance... can anyone let me know where this is on the timing marker. Is there a performance loss with any more advance, and should i run premium fuel.
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
You may have to run premium fuel if you go too far advanced. There really isn't a need since the inherent design of swirl port heads don't necessitate a lot of initial advance. 6° would be more than adequate. Try to get some sand paper on your timing tab. You should be able to clean off the funk and read the numbers. It also helps to paint the groove on your balancer white so that you can read the mark easier. Don't forget to unplug the EST before you set the timing.
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From: Greenville, SC
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
About halfway down this thread is a really good picture of the timing tab and what degree is where:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...timing+picture
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...timing+picture
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Car: 1995 Tahoe
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 4L60E
ok awsome, thanx guys. I went from base 0* and up and found that about 14* advanced is the best performance. I started getting a tick past 8* advanced on regular fuel, but running on premium (93 Octane) the engine is incredibly responsive at 14* adv. (i'm a teenager with no bills to pay so i don't mind paying for premium.) This much adv. may only work in cold weather, i fear that i might start getting a ping in hot weather and will be forced to retard the timing a little... we'll see. Great free mod though
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From: Hilliard, OH
Car: '92 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 open diff
I run my LO3 at about 10* and premium is obviously required, but it runs awesome. No pings, no knocks, and it performs very well. Does anyone else have an LO3 with their timing advanced more than 8*?
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by gatoRS92
Does anyone else have an LO3 with their timing advanced more than 8*?
Does anyone else have an LO3 with their timing advanced more than 8*?
T5 typically hear ping and see excessive knock counts with anything more than 4° base. I know mine did.
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
i run 10* on mine but, i don't know the history of the motor (maybe an unknown cam) i don't realy know but, i doubt it. It does have 140k+ miles on the motor though, so it's seen some wear and tear.
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally posted by MotorHead1272
ok awsome, thanx guys. I went from base 0* and up and found that about 14* advanced is the best performance. I started getting a tick past 8* advanced on regular fuel, but running on premium (93 Octane) the engine is incredibly responsive at 14* adv. (i'm a teenager with no bills to pay so i don't mind paying for premium.) This much adv. may only work in cold weather, i fear that i might start getting a ping in hot weather and will be forced to retard the timing a little... we'll see. Great free mod though
ok awsome, thanx guys. I went from base 0* and up and found that about 14* advanced is the best performance. I started getting a tick past 8* advanced on regular fuel, but running on premium (93 Octane) the engine is incredibly responsive at 14* adv. (i'm a teenager with no bills to pay so i don't mind paying for premium.) This much adv. may only work in cold weather, i fear that i might start getting a ping in hot weather and will be forced to retard the timing a little... we'll see. Great free mod though
You are mistakingly relying on the Knock Sensor to keep your engine safe. Back it down to NO MORE than 8* or something will eventually pop, leaving you engine-less.
It would be interesting to hook a scanner to it and see what you are getting in the way of knock counts!.
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Car: 1995 Tahoe
Engine: 350 TBI
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If you can back it down and there is no change in performance, then yes, your knock sensor was retarding the timing, if u back it down and u lose perf. then it was obviosly where it was indicated. Some people reley on their computers too much, have u guys ever worked on a Carb car? You set the timing mostly by ear and throttle response...
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally posted by MotorHead1272
Some people reley on their computers too much, have u guys ever worked on a Carb car? You set the timing mostly by ear and throttle response...
Some people reley on their computers too much, have u guys ever worked on a Carb car? You set the timing mostly by ear and throttle response...
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by Ronny
i thought onset of detonation is often inaudible(sp?) to human ear. the KS will retard timing and you may not be aware unless you are a logger.
i thought onset of detonation is often inaudible(sp?) to human ear. the KS will retard timing and you may not be aware unless you are a logger.
Originally posted by MotorHead1272
Some people reley on their computers too much,
Some people reley on their computers too much,
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From: Mesa, AZ
Car: A Camaro
Engine: Weak
Transmission: Weaker
Originally posted by ShiftyCapone
Why would you not want to? Why would you not rely on it when it has design features to help you in every way? Any closed loop system with real time feed back is superior to carb. Sure carb may be easier to learn and change but you don't have the fine adjustment and precision of a properly dialed in fuel injected system. Learning the system is the only way to properly mod a fuel injected car. Band aid methods are inadequate despite the quantified reasons people give.
Why would you not want to? Why would you not rely on it when it has design features to help you in every way? Any closed loop system with real time feed back is superior to carb. Sure carb may be easier to learn and change but you don't have the fine adjustment and precision of a properly dialed in fuel injected system. Learning the system is the only way to properly mod a fuel injected car. Band aid methods are inadequate despite the quantified reasons people give.
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Car: 1995 Tahoe
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 4L60E
Remember that my motor is an L05 (350 tbi) not a 305. And it runns better at 14* advanced than it does 8* advanced. There are no pings/knocks of any sort, i have retarded the timming from 14* to 8* in increments of 2*, and every 2* i retarded it by, the engine felt a little more sluggish. Thus the engine was not having the knock sensor pulling any timing out. And its been this way for quite a while now and havn't blown it up... can't deney the facts.
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,412
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
I am going to say that NOBODY else should try 14* on a stock L05. Either you have the lowest compression in history or some 104 octane coming from your pump. The 193 heads make their best power at 30-32* total advance. The stock 350 bins used in most trucks provide about 26* when in PE mode. That means you want 4-6* more advance than stock MAX. Maybe the balancer is shot and slipped. In that instance your engine may only be getting 4-6* advance but the balancer is saying 14+ to get it. My L05 would tolerate no more than 6* advance and it was a fresh rebuild. More timing than 6* made the engine run rough in OD pulling up long grades, at 10* you could hear it detonate on hard pulls. That is when I backed it down to 6*. I have the MSD timing control for the late model HEI so this was easy to do.
You say you are not tripping the Knock sensor, but have you had a scan tool on it while driving it. You would be suprised at the knock count you can get without hearing any audible knock.
You say you are not tripping the Knock sensor, but have you had a scan tool on it while driving it. You would be suprised at the knock count you can get without hearing any audible knock.
i get 250 KC's when i run timing at the edge with a load on engine. not mechanical KC, the real mccoy. 93 octane and 10.1/1 compression with modern designed heads. using an aluminum vette spark curve as basis. if i back off 2 deg it goes away! A/F is 13.1 /1 today at PE. now one can run an alarm as well hooked up to knock sensor. pretty cool accessory..
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Car: 1995 Tahoe
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 4L60E
I accidently put a 1/2 tank of regular 87 octane in my tank today so i retarded my timing back to 2* advance. The next time i get a chance to fill it up i'm gunna go up again, i'll try 4* and work my way up, when you are using the 8* advance, are you guys running 93 octane? And does anyone know how i could hook a light, or buzzer up to my knock sensor so i could really know when its picking any detonation up? just a thought... i'm waiting to get a laptop to do programing.
i started with 93 octane. KC's appeared in loggs at the higher load areas if i recall. i pulled 2 deg at those count areas. went away. switched to 89 oct. did not reappear. still running 89.
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