As some of you have probably already read, I finally got some tuning done and was able to put down 262 RWHP and 365 RWTQ with my 350 TBI. Well, I'm already looking for the next thing to do. The car is complete on everything else (eg, suspension, interior, tranny, rear, etc).

I would prefer to go to some form of forced induction, but I know that our computers are not exactly hi-tech for that sort of thing. If you know of a way, either turbo or SC, and something that doesn't require me hacking my car to death, then I would be interested in hearing it.

After that though, it leaves nitrous which I'm open to something like a 75 shot. Of course I would go with a wet system, but then we run into another slew of problems . . . my throttle body bores are 2" along with my intake manifold bores, but I would imagine the plates are for standard 5.7L sized bores. I also have the chip in it with a ton of timing added throughout the band. I'm aware of some devices out there that would retard timing at certain times, but haven't yet found what they're talking about.

I really want to get this thing above 400hp. Any advice would be appreciated. I'm also seriously considering going to TPI simply so I can have reasonable and reliable forced induction choices.

 

go carb

 

That would be like starting over though. I thought about it, but then I started reading up on it, and then I would have to get a different pickup, run different fuel lines and get all of my computer stuff to work still . . . then go through the whole process of tuning it again. I thought it was nothing more than a manifold, carb and distributor deal, but apparently not.

 

Gunny, refresh my memory on you cam specs. IIRC, they are fairly small. To get to 300+ RWHP without a power adder, you need more cam. In order to run more cam, you need bigger injectors. In order to make everything run togather, I recomend the EBL (are you using one currently?).

 

EBL?

204/214 .429/.452 116 + 1.6 RR's.

I went with it for ease of tuning and phat torque.

 

You just told me the other day it was already tpi..Do you do this for attention?

 

Ignore this troll guys.

 

It is an easy cam to tune, but what is easy to tune generally sacrifices power in my experience. Torque will be great, but HP will be down.

 

EBL?

 

What are you talking about? You just sent a pm telling me it was tpi.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...-ultimate.html

 

In English? And what kind of $$$ are we talking about here?

 

PM RBob for a price. I do not know what the release version is going for. Mine has been well worth the price paid.

 

What capablity does it give me? I read that part of that 7 page thread, but as mentioned numerous times on here, I do not understand any of that computer/PROM/ECM/C++/code stuff. It makes me literally want to blow my brains out. I pay people like you to do that stuff for me.

 

Well DynamicEFI that is RBob's new website, it gives a bit more concise information on the EBL setup than that long thread. Basically it allows you to datalog at an incredibly faster rate, it allows the use of a 2-bar MAP sensor (for forced induction) and has RBobs Ultimate TBI code on it. It's very good believe me. Worth every penny I spent on it. In your case I would not even think about putting nitrous on that motor until you run it on a dyno with a Wideband O2 sensor hooked up to make sure you aren't lean at all up top. That would be catastrophic if you were lean up top, and I"m sure not worth it to you to get nitrous on there right away and risk blowing that nice engine to pieces. The EBL really does open up that once-closed (or at least difficult to open) window for forced induction.

 

It was ran on the dyno with a wide band and tuned 3 days later. Picked up 13 RWHP at peak , which is actually now a plateau from 4700-5700 RPMs. Not to mention I picked up 15-20 RWHP across the entire band. The new numbers are 262 RWHP and 365 RWTQ. Now can I have my nitrous or forced induction?

Plenty of fuel left up top too.

 

Well, lemme give you a run down of what I did on my TBI 90 to go carb...

first I yanked ALL the unneccesary wiring...pretty much most of thepass. side wiring harness. put a intake and carb on the motor and a HEI dist. I yanked from a 77 chevy pickup w/vac. advance. Went ahead and replaced the module so less headaches. Put a Mallory AFPR on the strut tower base. Ran some transmission line rubber hose from the stock fuel rails over to the dual feedl ine on the carb.

Thats the main stuff. It was seriously worth it, engine bay looked MUCH cleaner. Sadly, I never got to run it. Didnt have a tranny and then I started building my Mustang.

Trust me, its not that hard. I know how hard it is to find a utner for the TBI/TPI platform. I know a few tuners for my 5.0 EFI platform and hell, theres a few readily available programs osld for this car that owuld allow me to do some laptop tuning.

And yet, when I put my stroker motor in the Stang, Ill STILL be going carb...its no daily driver but a well-tuned carb can run just fine in most any driving application.

In any case, good luck man!

 

Cool, I must have missed that, that you went back and got it run with a WB. If you're cool all the way up as far as AFR, go for it man. The EBL is really nice though. It'd make the engine run quite a bit smoother almost right away just after importing your fuel tables that you have now. It will allow the ECM to sense boost and offers timing controls while boosted. It also has nitrous controls, I haven't looked into them much at all, but I believe it's something along the lines of a window switch integrated into the ECM. Sounds like you've got it runnings pretty well now though? That's good to hear, and I wouldn't even consider carbing your motor at this point. You've got enough fuel and enough air right now so you aren't going to pick up any power, you just may lose some driveability, MPG, and throttle response.

 

So my understanding of this EBL thing is that it essentially gives you a faster computer to work with. Therefore allowing the user to not only download/datalog information faster, but it also is able to operate at such a speed that allows for forced induction applications on a TBI motor and can have some sort of code written in it to where I don't have to manually turn back my timing before a nitrous run or install a timing retard device in the cab.

Well that brings in more questions though:

1.) People keep saying that it's worth every penny, but noone has mentioned a price on it yet. I looked at the website, but saw no price listed.

2.) If I wanted to go with a plate style wet kit, we still run into the bore problem. My throttle body bores and my intake manifold bores are 2". I would imagine that the 5.7L kit is for standard size bores. Maybe somehow talk to the companies and see if they can send me a 454 kit plate????

3.) If I wanted to go with a Procharger kit, I read on the "power adder" forum that in the TBI applications they simply don't put out the 10-12 psi necessary to make the kit worth the money. . . usually hovering around the 6 psi level and have a tendancy to be more of a PIA than they're worth. Any kind of turbo applications out there?????

 

Gunny, I'll PM the cost details when I get home tonight. It is the same for everyone (with the exception of the beta testers), just so everyone understands I'm not changing the pricing around. Web site is fairly new and I am still working on it.

As for the EBL and boost: it supports a 2-bar MAP sensor along with a boost retard table (3D: boost vs. RPM), and a boost fuel multiplier table (3D: boost vs. RPM).

N2O control: N2O out active has several qualifiers: arming input, minimum MPH, minimum RPM, maximum RPM, then a set SA retard value.

The arming input can be wired to the same switch that provides power to the soleniods. Then need to be above the min MPH, above the min RPM, and below the max RPM. The output will go active and reduce the timing.

{edit: there is another qualifier, the TPS%. There is a minimum required TPS% value before the N2O is enabled. Which does make sense.}

The output will require a relay to drive the soleniods.

RBob.