My old run before the gears, open element, and Jet II was 16.5. I only ran once, I think that I could get a 16.2 (yeah, wow) if I ran some more. I never have luck with my first runs. (16.8 1st run last year). Could putting the LT1 cam I have, pulling the busted smog pump and a good tune up (and a new chip for the LT1) get me into the 15s?

 

On another topic, I've been thinking about heads. What are 081s? With the LT1 cam, would they help the car? I mean an un-ported set, I know a ported set will. What would need to be done to swap the heads?

 

Are those quarter mile times? If you have a 5.7 you have bigger issues. That car is easily good for 14's quarter mile. What does the rest of your timeslip look like?

 

what was your 1/8th time?

On my old 92 RS, all I had done was a flowmasterm uffler, smog removed, full tune up, and fiberglass cowl hood and peg legging down the track with 2.73's I ran consistant 10.22 everytime. manually shifting at 5200RPM.

A good FULL tuneup (plugs, wires, cap/rotor, change oil and tranny fluid/filter), remove the smog, and manually shifting at a good, peak RPM would net a 15 as long as your car isnt ragged out.

What was your 60ft? Did you foot-brake it on the line?

 

The car is a 305TBI. My name is that because when I joined, I was going to get a 350TPI...didn't pan out.
I can't remember my 1/8th. Slip disapeared. I'll have to take a look when I find it. Yea, I foot braked it at around 1500-1800.

Time-slip
60' 2.340 (have had better)
330' 6.762
1/8th 10.429
1000' 13.623
1/4th 16.323 @ 83.50

 

alot of people can get their 305tbi in the mid to low 15's pretty easy.. how many miles do you have on your car? and where do u live

 

My car just turned over 146200. I run at Thunder Valley (Bristol Motor Speedway) at around 1475" above sea level.

 

well aaron kieth in his formula has a LT1 cam tpi heads + headers no smog and under drive pulleys. Also a/c deleted he ran 15.7 at bristol.you would be in the 15's already if it was sea level.

 

Who tuned his for the cam? I am thinking about Brian from TBIchips.com
I think that without the smog and give the car a tune up, the LT1 cam, I could get into the 15s@ Bristol.... that sound feasable?

 

not without the headers or heads maybe 16.0 need one or the other. he tuned it didnt take it anywhere dont need to.
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also dont shift at redlinerun it on up keithshifts at6000 with thatcam

 

I know I don't need to, but it will help. I'm gonna give it a try and see what I can get sometime soon after I get the cam in.

 

i have a question for ya tho why are you going through the trouble of doing things to your lo3 when your going to get a LS1? Id save up the cash now by the time you get it they will be a little cheaper and easier to find wrecked cars cheaper. then you will be in the 13's. My head is leaking now im just gonig to add oil when it needs it unless it gets really bad. Im going to start putting the 383 together get it completely done except for the stuff that goes on it from the l98. Then in one day i plan on getting the l98 out and the 383 in then the next put the stuff on and fire her up. It will be a few years before im done but its better to start now old engine still doesnt smoke but shes going down hill.

 

I just want to the get the car into the 15s. Then I'll stop. I'm going as cheap as possible. The LS1/T56 will come next summer, unfortunaly. Then, the money will be easier to come by.

 

I agree with the previous guy.... enjoy your nice and reliable car. If you want performance save your money for an engine combination that has the potential to get you where you want to be and then some.

It will cost you a lot more money in the long run dumping money into an engine combination that does not have the potential. When you hit 15sec the majority people can't stop there once the bug bites anyways.

You have potential by improving you 60' to get better 1/4 mile times. If you are not wanting to make a lot of engine upgrades go for the tuneup and work on your 60' times.

 

I am not trying to knock you, but 16.3? Have you looked at the basics? Another thing to consider is shifting it manually. The stock L03 700r4 will shift somewhere between 3,800-4,200. Even a stock L03 likes being run to about 4,500. With my stock carbed 305, I used to let the stock 700r4 shift 1-2 @ 4,600 automatically (shifter in 2nd) and then manually shifted into third at 4,600. In Drive it would shift 2-3 @ 4,100 or so. This shaved 3-4 tenths off the times consistantly.


Further backing this up, I took a 1994 G10 van with the L03(175 FWHP @ 4,200, 285 ft/lbs @ 2,800)/4L60E/3.42-P225/70/R15 combo to the local 660'. I ran 4 times back to back and averaged the numbers in each case. No one time flukes, promise.

Bonestock with no tune-up in forever and 279,000 miles it turned a 11.67 @ 58.73 After a COMPLETE tune-up, still painfully stock it ran a 11.36 @ 58.26. It is at just under 289,000 today( guess the 20 1/8 mile runs some seeing 5,600 rpm, the dyno, and pulling the boat hasn't hurt it).


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...i-project.html

PS- Un-ported 081s are likely to slow your car down.

 

well, if you're getting a new engine down the road, i'd drop the money into the suspension. It seems from your sig you could still add Lca's/ brackets/ and sfcs. I love my spohn sfc's btw...

I also manual shifting the car would prolly net you a little quicker time.

FWIW, you're still faster than most of those import/ 80's econo box beaters that show up at the track. I've seen all kinds of crazy cars that don't deserve to even legally be on the road, get raced at the local track here...

 

According to my tach, my transmission shifts at 5000 @ WOT. Before the gauge cluster change, it showed shifting at 4500. But, the RPMs while cruising in 4th at a certain speed remained the same.
My car had a tune up a while back, but the guy used some cheapo sh*t instead of the things (I had left them at home. I didn't know I did, so he didn't call me, just used cheap. I now do all my own stuff)
Can you change where the trans shifts with the PCM?

The suspension mods for my car are in my sig....not good for ET! lol

Ok, thanks. I guess I'll just leave the heads alone. Don't the unported 081s make less Tq?

 

A.)Stock Tachs are horribly in-accurate
B.)Sucks about the tune-up
C.)What can't make it handle and 60' at the same time?
D.)The shift points on the 700r4 are controlled by the governor in the transmission, not the PCM. In the 1994 and now my 1983 they are controlled by the PCM (4L60E).

 

Yea, the tachs and the tune up suck.
I was reffering to the stiffness of the suspension. I need to work on getting the LCAs and brackets.
ok.

 

Tell me you manually shifted that car. Please dont tell me you didnt. No auto is going to shift where it needs to, to get the best times. Manually shift that bitch if i had known that i would say you coulda hit 15.9 that night on your first run. When you get that cam run it up to 6000 it will be fine. Get the cam and headers manually shift and you will be running with ramjam make him feel bad if you beat him. You shouldnt tell anyone what you do and just do it sometime then beat them will make them scratch their heads and give ya a good laugh. Sneak that ls1 in there.
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Oh im with the other guy that said worry about the suspension. Hes write make that thing stiff as hell before you get the LS1 will make it probably 5tenths quicker. I need to work on mine starting with sfc's but be careful who you get to weld them in. Might burn your car down with the carpet in.

 

Before the next time I run, I'm installing LCA relocation brackets, SFCs, the front Konis, pulling the Smog, and a tune up....and manually shifting lol.
I would get the LCAs, but I need the SFCs/ Konis more.