Can someone point me to a post, or explain the way to remove the EGR on my L03....Thanks, Tom

 

Are you trying to remove completly or just swap in new one?

 

I think I want to remove for good...I keep hearing different opinions on this subject tho.........If I do not remove I may replace with a "N" version...I think the EGR code has been turned off in my chip.......How many guys with TBI are not running EGR????? Any difference good, or bad???????? Thanks, Tom

 

You can just remove and plug up the vaccum ports. A set of vacuum plugs at autozone are few bucks. You can try the N egr. I swapped out my bad egr and put in a new N egr it doesn't do anything for me. No egr will eventually ruin your cat conv if you have one. And with out the egr you can smeel the fumes. Seems to run rich. I'd look into it more.

 

I dont know that much about EGR's, but how do they make your car run rich, with, or without one????? Thanks.....Tom

 

Mine doesnt have EGR... The previous owner removed it and the AIR system and gutted the cat and got a chip with all of it deleted. THere's also a billet aluminum(I think aluminum) block off plate for it. Very tastefully done, he did it right and I've never started my car up and said to myself "Damn, I wish I had all that smog **** on here..." Im undecided about whether I'll put the EGR and AIR on the new motor... but I doubt it.

Of course, without the cat my car smells like a lawnmower.

 

A non-functioning EGR makes the combustion temp in the
cylinders run a lot hotter, this could possibly damage the spark
plugs. It also can cause pinging/engine knock/preignition which
can damage piston tops. Also depending on the type of failure
it could possibly have made the engine run too rich or too lean
which can damage the catalytic converter.
A bad EGR really screws the computer that determines mixture
up. You can get all kinds of funny problems.

 

Ok, I will bite, how does not having a EGR make the combustion temp hotter????? I thought a EGR let hot gasses into the intake mixture......I know on my Dodge 440 Race Motor, we blocked off the EGR to help cool the intake mixture down, and on that Motor, it is worth some Horsepower.Now my chip has been burnt with no EGR, but the unit is still on the car...I do not have a cat, or AIR pump hooked up.....Someone please give me a description of how this unit works.Pro's, and Con's of removal....I dont want permission to do this, I just want some honest info..I know this has been beat to death, but PLEASE one more time.......Thanks very much, Tom

 

Exhaust gasses have already been burnt so there for cannot be burned again. When you add unburnable gasses to the air/fuel it just delutes the mixture some and there by burns cooler. It also allows for more advanced timming. If you are running with out egr you could pick up more performance with some chip tuning.

Steve

 

Ok, I see how this differs from my Dodge (No computer) God these things give me headaches....Thanks.....

 

i have no air pump or cat eather. i had it on there in the begining when i took it off i totally noticed a power gain. if i ever bought another F it would be the first mod i'd do is take all that off p.s. not sure if it matters but i only run 93 oct.

 

EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation.

The way I like to explain it is like putting a brick in your toilet bowl. The brick takes up space so you fill the tank with less water which in turn uses less water each flush. Think of the exhaust gases as the brick.

Exhaust gases are added back to the intake maniforld to take up space. Exhaust gases shouldn't dilute the air/fuel mixture. All it does is not allow more air/fuel into the cylinder. More air/fuel in the cylinder causes more pressure, which causes higher temps. Just like when you step down on the pedal and open the throttle plate. Temperature = energy. Higher temps = more energy produced, = more output. At 2500 degrees F. NOX emissions are created. As you start to accelerate, you add more air which adds more fuel. As you are cruising down the street at 35 to 45 MPH, The EGR valve is opening and closing controling the volume of air/fuel keeping the cylinder temps lower. Under heavy load, pedal to the metal, there is no vacuum created, so the EGR system is rendered inop. The only time it acutally is in use in under normal driving conditions. And since the engines are designed to operate at certain temps, by disabling the EGR system you change
the operating temp of the cylinder. Remember the coolant only circulates around the cylinger. It doesn't cool the rest of the metal in the engine, crank, cam, lifters, etc. That's the oils job. So now with higher cylinder temps the heat transfers to the rest of the metal and now the oil is having to work overtime. And of course by changing the thermostat to open at a lower temp, this causes the gauge to read lower, causing the operator to think the engine is running cooler. But, by changing the rate of heat transferance, it's causing higher cylinder temps because it's not removing the heat. And you have a noticealbe increase in power because of the temp difference between the air going into the engine and the temp of the burn. And with todays gasoline quality, engine ping is almost guaranteed. So you have heard people who've done it with no problem but the results of the damage won't really be seen until the engine is dead or on it's last leg.

And then there's the ones who by disconnecting the EGR make there cars perform better so they think the EGR was the problem, when a lean condition was the real culprit. A simple carb M/C solenoid adjustment will usually take care of it. In fuel injection engines, the EGR doesn't show as much.

 

very well thought out and explained post. but isnt all that true only if the car is running on stock ecu. when you rechip the comp all of that is taken into concideration by the tuner.

 

Well when I put a brick in my toliet, it does not flush the "er stuff" down as good cuz there is less fuel....In the old days (I know we are not there now) you blocked this thing, (EGR) and got a cooler denser fuel mixture, which let you run more timing, and make more power.There were no 2 ways about this, it worked...It was designed to heat up the intake so the car would warm up faster, and also to somewhat reduce emisions....I am just having trouble understanding these newer systems......Heat is the enemy of EVERYTHING I ever knew....I know I am behind the times...I do thank you for the explanation..I am going to print this, and take it to work, and reread it about 50 times...I also printed the Tech article on EGR's.......Tom

 

Back in the "old days" gasoline was different. It was actually gasoline. Now in todays gasoline, it is designed to burn with engine emissions in mind. When you saw an octane rating it was the acual octane in the gas. Now it's a formula depending on elevation. Back in the "old days" engine parts were mostly cast iron. Nowadays, most engine parts are aluminum. Aluminum cannot take the same heat as cast iron. Back in the "old days" no one cared about the brown haze just off the horizon. And the EGR only is really effective when cruising down the road, not when you put your foot to the floor or are idling at a stand still. And yes, without exhaust gases going into the cylinder it will have a cooler intake temp, but, it's the actual "amount" of air/fuel that makes a higher temp. The more air/fuel, the higher the temp, the more output.

 

Tech Articles -> General Repair -> Lowdown on Code 32

 

Yep, ive read that, and am still undecided as to what to do..Think i may take it off, and if I dont like the results put it back......BTW, it was very nice to meet you today..I look forward to seeing your car.....Tom

 

If it's tuned out take off the valve and put a block off plate in it's place.very simple,very easy.Not trying to be a jerk,Just stating the obvious.