Removing vent canister
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: charleston,SC
Car: 1990 Camaro RS (IROC-Z Clone)
Engine: LO3
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Removing vent canister
Ok, before I start getting into what I need help on let me first say that im removing my EGR system to include my CAT. Now if this bothers you.... it's not something im going to concern myself with, and your opinions will not alter my decision on deleting my EGR system. So please dont let this thread go in any other direction other then the main topic! Thanks.
Ive already removed my cat, im now in the process of removing the air tubes that run to each primary. Now looking at the rest of the EGR system ive noticed a vent canister of some sort that is located near the driver side fender just below the windshield washer fluid reservoir. I believe this is related to the EGR system per the EGR diagram ive seen on a sticker under the hood. I don't think id need this vent canister in the same respect of not needing the CAT or the Air Tubes. I however would like to make sure of this and ask you guys/gals of this canisters function and weather or not I can remove this, as well as if there is anything ill need after I remove it as far as plugs or block off plates go. Thanks!
Aaron
Ive already removed my cat, im now in the process of removing the air tubes that run to each primary. Now looking at the rest of the EGR system ive noticed a vent canister of some sort that is located near the driver side fender just below the windshield washer fluid reservoir. I believe this is related to the EGR system per the EGR diagram ive seen on a sticker under the hood. I don't think id need this vent canister in the same respect of not needing the CAT or the Air Tubes. I however would like to make sure of this and ask you guys/gals of this canisters function and weather or not I can remove this, as well as if there is anything ill need after I remove it as far as plugs or block off plates go. Thanks!
Aaron
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 254
Likes: 1
From: South Dakota
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Don't remove that. It's the vent for your gas tank. Basically uses vapor from your tank that would otherwise get dissipated into the atmospher, and injects them into your TBI unit. It's called the Charcoal Canister. The ECM commands it to be purged occasionally during normal driving. It "can" be removed and the only thing it has to do with the emissions is vapor emissions from the gas tank vapors. Unless it's cluttering your engine bay for intake, turbo, or other modifications, my suggestion is to just keep it.
If you do remove it however. Basically unplug the weatherpack connector, plug the line going to the gas tank, and plug the line going to the throttle body. The only "Block Off" plates you'll need are some screws or otherwise to plug the hoses. Hope this helped
If you do remove it however. Basically unplug the weatherpack connector, plug the line going to the gas tank, and plug the line going to the throttle body. The only "Block Off" plates you'll need are some screws or otherwise to plug the hoses. Hope this helped
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,404
Likes: 492
From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
I quite honestly would not remove the charcoal vapor canister, it is what the fuel tank vents through. It stores the fuel vapors while the engine is shut-off and then allows them to be burned by the engine while driving. Keeps hydrocarbons out of the atmosphere. Without it you can lose up to 1/3 gallon of gasoline, DAILY through evaporation.
2nd deleting the EGR system is just stupid, IMO. I will improve on this statement.
1.) EGR will NOT rob ANY HP @ WOT
2.) EGR reduces combustion chamber temperatures @ part throttle
3.) EGR INCREASES part-throttle cruise fuel mileage by allowing the engine to work more efficiently. The EGR acts as an internal vacuum leak, without affecting the air/fuel mixture. This reduces the pumping losses of the engine at part-throttle, boosting fuel economy.
4.) The ECM/PCM is programmed to work with EGR, without it you will experience a soggy part throttle, pinging, and the engine will run too lean. The ECM will compensate for the lack of EGR via the long term fuel trim, by adding in extra fuel. Now when you go WOT, the ECM is still locked into adding the extra fuel, the factory programming now runs the engine WAY TOO RICH, which KILLS your torque, hp, and fuel mileage.
I can tell you that it cost me nearly 5 mpg AND serious HP/TQ when the EGR system passages clogged up in my 2.8 TBI S10. Fuel trims where running at 160 BLM going down the road, when the hammer was mashed, it would run so rich that it would blow black smoke.
On the other-hand if you are talking about the Air Injection Reaction system or AIR for short, I always get rid of that system. There is just something that I do not like about using power from the engine to turn an air pump, that is pushing air into the exhaust manifolds and increasing back pressure, further killing power.
2nd deleting the EGR system is just stupid, IMO. I will improve on this statement.
1.) EGR will NOT rob ANY HP @ WOT
2.) EGR reduces combustion chamber temperatures @ part throttle
3.) EGR INCREASES part-throttle cruise fuel mileage by allowing the engine to work more efficiently. The EGR acts as an internal vacuum leak, without affecting the air/fuel mixture. This reduces the pumping losses of the engine at part-throttle, boosting fuel economy.
4.) The ECM/PCM is programmed to work with EGR, without it you will experience a soggy part throttle, pinging, and the engine will run too lean. The ECM will compensate for the lack of EGR via the long term fuel trim, by adding in extra fuel. Now when you go WOT, the ECM is still locked into adding the extra fuel, the factory programming now runs the engine WAY TOO RICH, which KILLS your torque, hp, and fuel mileage.
I can tell you that it cost me nearly 5 mpg AND serious HP/TQ when the EGR system passages clogged up in my 2.8 TBI S10. Fuel trims where running at 160 BLM going down the road, when the hammer was mashed, it would run so rich that it would blow black smoke.
On the other-hand if you are talking about the Air Injection Reaction system or AIR for short, I always get rid of that system. There is just something that I do not like about using power from the engine to turn an air pump, that is pushing air into the exhaust manifolds and increasing back pressure, further killing power.
Last edited by Fast355; Mar 16, 2007 at 05:31 PM.
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
From: charleston,SC
Car: 1990 Camaro RS (IROC-Z Clone)
Engine: LO3
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Hey thank guys for your reply (except for the off topic "removing your EGR is stupid) everything else was great and apricieated. I had no clue it was the Charcoal Canister. Now that I know that I won't get rid of it, if any thing ill see if it's possible to relocate it. Thanks again.
Aaron
Aaron
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,404
Likes: 492
From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Hey thank guys for your reply (except for the off topic "removing your EGR is stupid) everything else was great and apricieated. I had no clue it was the Charcoal Canister. Now that I know that I won't get rid of it, if any thing ill see if it's possible to relocate it. Thanks again.
Aaron
Aaron
Oh well just trying to put out some info and get slammed for it, after all, what do I know? Just wanted to let you know what is up when you do and give first hand knowledge of what will happen.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,467
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From: The nation's capital
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
On the other-hand if you are talking about the Air Injection Reaction system or AIR for short, I always get rid of that system. There is just something that I do not like about using power from the engine to turn an air pump, that is pushing air into the exhaust manifolds and increasing back pressure, further killing power.
PS- I have emissions in my AO
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