To change valve guides, the heads dont have to come off the car... is that correct? And how much should a shop charge for a job like that. Thanks alot guys.

 

The heads have to be off the block in order to change the valve guides. You might be able to do the job yourself if you have a press otherwise you'll have to take it to the shop. If you do take it to a shop make sure you tell them to replace the guides and not just roll them over. Also, have bronze valve guides put in they will last longer. I had the heads rebuilt on a Regal that I had with a 307 for about $300. This included gaskets, magnafluxing, resurfacing the deck and changing the valve guides. Shop around for the best price.
One more thing I toook the heads off myself. If you're going to have the shop do try doubling that $300. Why do you think you need the valve guides replaced? Are you sure it's the guides and not the seals?

[This message has been edited by 92305TBI (edited July 09, 2001).]

 

If you dont have to take the heads off to fix Valve Seals then that is what is wrong with my car, I just made a mistake. I wanted to know how much one of you guys paid for a valve SEAL fix. And from 1-10 how hard is it to do it yourself. Thanks alot.
The problem is when I first start the car I get smoke that has an oily smell to it, like a burning, and when the car is sitting and i give it gas in park I get a puff of smoke. I hold the accelerator down and get smoke coin out the tailpipes. I was told by a mechanic that its not the rings, he know these cars VERY well and said no way its the rings, but the seals. Thanks alot
Murph

 

You can do the Valve Seal job without removeing the heads but you will need a way to keep the valve from falling down into the cylinder. The bet way is to use compresses air. If you don't have a source of that then you can try barring overthe cylinder you're working on to TDC but this is risky. Heard some awful stories from this method. If you drop a valve in the cylinder you will have to pull the head off to get it out.
bsa

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"If they do not run, Then they will die." - Stonewall Jackson
#3
'87 IROC, 355 TPI, Converted to SD, 700R4, B&M Megashifter, 3.42, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads, Edelbrock Intake, Accel Runners, Comp Cam, Crane Gold rockers, Lucas 24# injectors, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster 3'' exhaust, Mallory Ignition, Transgo Performance Shift Kit, Corvette Servo, 2,000 Stall Torque Converter

 

The trick I use to replace valve springs and seals is to take out the spark plugs, turn the engine till the piston is down in the cylinder and is coming up on the compression stroke, and then thread about 2 ft. of 1/4" nylon rope into the cylinder,leaving a few feet hanging out, then keep turning the engine till it gets tight, the rope is now holding the valves up and you can remove the springs, when your done just back up the engine a little and remove the rope.

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92 Camaro RS 5.0 5-Speed (Quasar Blue)
T-Tops
14" Open Air Cleaner
3.08 Posi-trac
Edelbrock TBI Intake
Crane cam
Ported & polished stock heads 3 angle valve job
HyperTech Chip
SLP Headers (Ceramic Coated)
UltraFlo cat-back exhaust

74 Dodge Dart Sport 360 (11.2 1/4 mile)

2000 Dodge 1500 Ram Sport

[This message has been edited by DartByU (edited July 09, 2001).]

 

A valve seal job is not that hard if you have the right tools. I would suggest if you are going to do the job yourself to invest in a small air compresser if you dont already have one. This way you can be sure you won't drop a valve into the cylinder. If you do, you have to remove the head. There is no other way to get it out. Taking the heads off if a PITA.

 

The old rope in the cylinder trick. That dates back to the days of WWII aircraft mechanics. Sweeettt.
bsa

 

Compressor is best but Dart's way is fine, too. Just be careful that you, indeed, are pushing up the valves with the rope at near TDC and you'll be fine. First, I would run some injector/carb/CC cleaner through the engine and a tank of gas (to clean the carbon off the piston tops) as the rope trick will loosen up a bunch of carbon on the pistons. Rings don't like carbon much.


EDIT: Not sure I saw it mentioned but you need to get/rent a good quality valve spring compressor to get the job done. They don't just "come off" ya' know... Don't use one of those screw-topped jobbies, either. they just beat up the seals you just put on unless you are experienced...

[This message has been edited by FastBroker (edited July 10, 2001).]