Nothing changed......



Waste of money imo.
It could also be that i'm tired of this 305, it's real quick but it falls on it's face after 3800 rpm's...

 

When we did it to my gf's RS...definent seat of the pants difference. They love cold air...when the weather is warm obviously its just warm air getting sucked in so you may not notice as much of a difference. A big change in noise though it sounds like a vacuum cleaner. Lots of noise but the car still doesnt go anywere. lol. Side note though your car looks really clean.

 

I can only hear a difference when the car is sitting with the hood up and somebody gives it gas, it just sounds like I have the whole air assembly (old one) off.
My car the way it is, it's so loud, driving it there is no noticeable difference in performence or sound.


Thanks bro....

 

I noticed a SOP feel, also easier to grab second. But I also have a 350 too.

 

Do you have the IAT capped and in the air cleaner?

 

Give the ECM a good 10-20 miles to adjust the fuel trims at part-throttle. Might feel a little stronger when it is said and done.

 

when i had my old tbi i just fleipped the lid upisde down and cut a hose and put it under my filter to raise it up it def sounded cooler not sure on performance but better than nothing and it was free

 

Man, my ram air, cool air setup made a lot of difference on mine.Not sure the 1/4 mile differences, but it was noticable.....Ive also done the lid flipping thing, and that does work great too....Just still got hot air...

 

Hey guys, sorry to budge in with a question, but would the open element with a cowl induction hood yield any better results than just the open element itself? just something that i've been wondering about, thanks

 

Blackbird, for what its worth, I think it would, at least during the summer time....Anytime you can get it a little cooler under the hood, it seems to help...Not sure how much difference there would be tho...Im debating an open element, but I dont know if more hot air is better than less cold air....I think on a really hi output motor the amount of air would win, but untill I get to the point where I need more air, I think the cold air wins......I hope this made sense....Its nice to have a 1000 cfm airbreather, but if the motor only uses 400 cfm, it seems to me the cool air package is better....Anyone done dyno's on this sort of thing????????

 

What kinda base did you get? I know with the drop base ones, you still have to use the gold ring around the TBI unit, which is problem. I used a flat base and removed the gold ring, definitely had a big boost in the seat of the pants feel and sound. When the idle air control returns to normal after the engine warms up, the vacuum sound disappears, and the sound the engine make at least sounds cool.

 

There is about a 20% difference in density between 70 degree air and 200 degree air. In an air density altitude calculator, the hot air is equivelent to running at 8000+ feet. The stock ECMs cant really take advantage of cold air as much as theres no real compensation for incoming air temps. This and the stock manifolds are fully heated. On engines that can properly compensate for air density changes, there is a noticable difference between very cold air and hot air from in the engine compartment. Im running a TPI airbox with an unheated airgap manifold and with this cold snap, there is a big difference from when I was taking in air from the engine and taking it in from outside. Noticably faster. I wouldnt recommend this setup for a stock TBI car thats driven in the winter, but it does help boost the power.

 

i tried the flip the lid thing on my stock aircleaner and afterwards the car felt like more of a dog than it was before. it didnt have that much change in sound so i pulled over and flipped it right back over. then i bought my open element i feel a little difference not much but i do love the noise at WOT plus looks hell of a lot cleaner under the hood.

 

hmm... when i did mine, i noticed big differences. and waste of money- not. i got a stock looking open element for no money at all, just a little time, Dremel, and black spray paint. imho, looks cleaner than most.

 

the open element gave me a noticeable pep-up, but the biggest difference was the hookers so all that air had somewhere to go. i didn't/wouldn't expect much with the stock exhaust, but i'm sure even cheapo headers would take much more advantage of the increased airflow potential.

 

That was the first thing I did (cold air) and it made a hell of a difference.....

 

Edelbrock drop base w/a 4" free-flowing air filter and i'm using the gold ring. No problems so far, my only concern was the bottom of the base was about 1/2" away from a plug wire, so I just put a small piece of electrical tape on it to keep it from arcking.
Sorry for the late response.

 

You want that KICK *** KNOCK YOU BACK IN THE SEAT FEELING......buy some headers, get a custom y-pipe, a high flow cat (or straight pipe) and a nice exhaust and then you'll be putting an indentation in your seat.

Or you can get a new TC like Pro Builts Viglante or Edge TC's....only 9.5" compared to 12" stock and weigh a considerable amount less than stock..... around 30lbs for a 9.5"...I think stock weighs around 50 or so....not certain but pretty sure.

 

OH HELL YEAH..........................

 

umm sir, I have Edelbrock headers/custom y pipe/no cat converter and 3" exhaust and a aftermarket torque converter.

 

Raiderfan, how do you like the 3.73 gears????? What did you have before?? What kinda stall ya got???Thanks, Tom

 

I had the 2.73, the 3.73 made a HUGE difference, I wouldn't go any higher though. Even with the Eaton limited slip I still have traction problems during a hard launch. I have 245's in the rear, i'm getting a set of 275's.
The only thing I remember abut the TQ is it was a step higher than stock, something like 2300. I let the guy who rebuilt the trans pick it.

 

my edge 3200 and 3.42/eaton posi has made my car rediculous. plain crazy.

 

3.42 posi is my next thing. I'm sure it will be a significant difference.

 

I plan on putting 4.11's in mine..with the same Eaton Posi Unit. As I have a 305 so I am not looking for top end gearing.

So if you say 3.42's are crazy.....UMMM I cant F***ING wait.

 

Good luck hooking up on a take off with 4.11 gears.

I had a noticeable increase in performance when I did this to my 92. I went with the smaller setup used for dual carbs though. Low end grunt picked up but there was a drastic difference on the highway. The car didn't choke at around 4500 anymore. It could easily breathe to 6000 rpm. It didn't pull there though LOL. Point is it could breathe untill 5500 rpm where I need to shift. That was well worth my $10.00 at Pep Boys.

 

So would 3.73's be better then...and dont forget I will be getting $3600 in Spohn Suspension....which is everything they got for my car.

 

Suspension is going to aid in weight transfer and eliminate wheel hop. All that "force" needs to go somewhere and that's your tires. I had 3.42s in my 97 Z28 with 330 ft-lbs of torque at the wheels from 2000 rpm through 5000 rpm. It would only hook on slicks. It would still spin drag radials all day long unless I was heavy footed on the clutch slipping it to hell and back on a launch.

As you go to a higher numerical gear it only gets worse and worse because they're trying to spin faster and faster on a takeoff.


You have to look a wide picture when it comes to choosing gears. Your car could be alot faster on a set of 3.42s than on anything greater than that. Even more so on a manual car. You're in an automatic though nd if you're sticking with that you probably do need something higher than a 3.42 to compensate for the huge gaps in gear ratios the automatics are stuck with. They either need torque or rear gear to pull through the wide seperation.

I'm a little biased though. I've never been a 4.11 type of guy. Stuff like that is for racing through 2nd gear in the 1/8 mile. You do need some type of top end to run a good 1/4 mile time. I wouldn't go any higher than a set of 3.73s to be honest. With right torque line (flat like in my 97 Z28) I didn't see the need of going beyond the factory 3.42 gears. It ran with 12.5 second 1/4 mile cars all day long.


You need to look at your combination and where you're spending money. If you're going to road race then sure spend all that money on a full Spohn suspension. If you aren't, I would only get lower control arms or traction action lift bars, a poly transmisson and torque arm mounts, solid motor mounts, and maybe a set of "decent" drag struts and shocks. Little else is going to help you right now at near factory power levels.

 

that is incorrect. do the math, a 2.73 is spinning the tires 1 revolution for every 2.73 turns of the driveshaft, where a 4.10 will take 4.10 revolutions of the driveshaft for one wheel rotation. your input RPMs are the same. the reason you're seeing more tire slip is due to more torque multiplication throught the lower (numerically higher) gears, and it is overcoming the available traction of the tires, be it though the tires themselves (pressure too high?) or through the suspension.

 

I remember when I did the open element mod (flat base) years ago on a completely stock L03. There might have been a little improvement up top but nothing spectacular. However, when I added a CFM Tech bored TBI unit and bigger injectors - along with the open element (and a little minor tuning of the VE tables) - there was a very clear improvement in the high end and the car picked its revs up a lot quicker. It was like a restriction had been removed from the motor ...actually, it was. Of course, with stock exhaust, heads and cam an L03 will never be much past 4000 rpm, but those TBI mods are what woke me up to the huge "inhalation" problem that stock L03s have.

Shortly after that I put in a Trans Go shift kit and went to 3.42 gears and posi (from open 2.73) and aluminum driveshaft. Then the car became a "new" machine ...much more fun to drive. Of course, still no top-end, but a helluva lot of fun around town.

I really enjoyed messing with the "stockish" L03 because it was so restricted that almost anything (anything "sensible" anyway) gave a noticeable gain.

 

The problem isn't the open element, but the fact that you're a Raiders fan.

 

what are u talking about? i see no cut hoses.

hahaha. for the car, buddy
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question... would a generic one have the same effect? i couldnt see much differencesbetween any of them?

like say, the jeg's brand one they sell for like $27