I have the 5.0 TBI and want some cheap power! I wanted a carb setup because it seems that you can get a lot out of it for less money. BUT IN CALIFORNIA you have to have all this smog junk. I know I can do some mild cam mods, LT1, and edelbrock headers and some ignition stuff. I am thinking about the idea of the TPI swap as that would require 16 year old me to save a bit of money and probably bring it into a shop since I got no real engine experience and probably would have some problems with timing and the electronic setup. How much is a TPI conversion if someone else does it, or what is the price most likely for a 5.7 TPI engine swap with the engine harness, wiring harness, fuel pump, dual fans and all the other stuff? I think to be street legal that may be my best option but most expensive. I already got a flowmaster catback so that's a little there.

 

you only need that smog junk once every 2 years and even less if you know someone

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS.6

Got Beach?

 

You can swap in the LT1 cam pretty cheaply. It made a big difference in my case. I recommend SLP (superior design and 400 series ss) over Edelbrock for headers, but that is a personal choice. Edelbrock has fixed one of their problems (unequal diameter primary tubing) but still suffers from a poor 4 into 1 design. Both of these mods will still work with a future TPI swap. You can search eBay and the F-Body sites for the parts you'll need used. Once you've got all the pieces, then you can take it to a shop for the swap. Also don't neglect the brakes and suspension. My suggestion is to get these upgraded first, before the increased power quest. That was the route I chose. Good luck with the upgrades, Lon.

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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
(626)369-0040

http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
http://www.taskerinc.com/gs3/profiles/Lon_profile.htm

 

I have the same issue.

These arent massive power adders, but they cost near nothing.

Id go for improving your spark first. its cheap!

new plugs (stock gapping is at .35 but i have seen posts here of bumping that up a bit with increased potential in the spark dept. my GUESS is with these mods..jump your gap to .4), plug wires (i chose MSD 8.5mm Superconductors-cut to fit),MSD Blaster coil and distributor cap and rotor. altogether comes to about 200 dollars. Definitely noticed more pep from the lacking 305.

Keep us updated JOE, we CA folk have so much more to consider with the Smog crap. I love to see what other L03'ers have done with it.

 

I'd like to drive mine off a cliff, then it will go really fast.

-Todd-

 

hmm CA recipe...
-TPI heads polished up(or better heads)
good Carb intake. Edelbrock TBI intake if you don't wana be swapping intaked every 2 years. Bore it for 670 or 454 TBI.
-Full exaust. Put on a heat riser onto header for smog check. Keep stock air cleaner assembly somewhere.
-Full igniton
-Cold air
-LT1 cam
-gears
-higer stall for auto, short shifter for stick.
-put the car on a diet.
aluminm water pump save 8 lbs. Aluminu heads save 40 lbs. 'glass hood save 25 lbs. No AC save 50 lbs. Lightweight wheels tires no jack and spare save 200 lbs. Lighweight wing for Formulas save 15 lbs. Aluminum driveshaft save 4 lbs or more. Get aluminum bumpers from early 3rdgen save some weight....

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS.6

 

Let me just let you guys in on something.
I passed NJ visual and sniff test on the dyno thing. If I can do it without air, without a good cat, and without EGR. I think anybody can up to a certain point. If you have a cat converter and no air all that means is you're cat is going to take longer to warm up. The reason for the air system is to warm up the 02 sensor and cat converter. That's it's basic job. After it warms up the o2 sensor the switch only provides air to the cat converter. Anyways, I program my own eproms so it's a little easier for me to get away with things on the sniff test BUT be warned, EGR is very important to pass the nitrous oxides testing. I failed the first time and it was because my car was too hot (240df), I went back and passed with a 960 when you need a 970, barely got away with it. It's all about tuning. You can get anything to pass as long as it's running right. Playing with fuel pressure alone could have gotten me passed the sniff test!
Good luck and remember, 330hp passed the NJ sniff test without the smog equipment!

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, Jon (350 TBI!)
91 Red My website

 

Its easy to pass the sniff test, but you'll never pass the visual in CA without AIR, smog pump, catalytic converter, or EGR. I dunno how you passed that in New Jersey, the tech must be blind.

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1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
317 RWHP, 418 RWTQ
13.23 @ 107.62 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Member: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

The tech guy looked at it, shook his head like he didn't know what he was looking at. Then I pulled out my Holley 670cfm 50 state legal "post card" paper and showed it to him. He looked for a cat converter, found it, passed me on the visual.

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, Jon (350 TBI!)
91 Red My website

 

here we dont get visuals, is it true every 100lbs you take off, you drop your ¼ time a 10th of a sec?

------------------
Trent
---Car---
89 Firebird/305 L03 TBI A4/t-tops
Open Element Edelbrock Aircleaner w/ K&N air filter/Summit Chrome Valve Covers
Edelbrock TES headers 3" out/flowmaster American thunder 3" exaust/Catco cat
---Stero---
Pioneer DEH-P730 Premium
Infinity 2way 4652 4x6's/Pioneer 4way ts-a6985 6x9's
profile cl640 110x4

 

It's the rule of thumb.

 

Go for a whole second and drop 100 lbs. Cam, heads and intake. They are the fastest way to drop the ET.



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91 RS 5.0 TBI....LT4 cam....Edelbrock headers....3"Dynomax exhaust....5spd.... 3.08.....Ultimate tbi....afpr...ZR 255-50's...Koni's

[This message has been edited by DM91RS (edited October 28, 2001).]