I finally got back to the track over the weekend to do alot of test runs on the Ram Air box (if you don't know what that it is a fiberglass unit that encompasses your 14x3 open air filter w/2 4in. snorkels). My previous fastest time was a 15.64 (although I rarely ever touched the 15.6's) with a 60 foot of somewhere around 2.23.The 15.64 was done with an open K&N 14x3, so the only change was the cold air. My new fastest time w/ Ram Air box is 15.42 (with an avg. of 15.48) and fastest 60 foot of 2.113.

That's 2.2 tenths (fastest to fastst) with a tenth of that improvement in the first 60 feet all for $138! I think I could get more out of it up top if I upped my fuel delivery more (running 12 psi now).

Now I know this is a snail's pace compared to camaroracer's 13 sec runs...but it is a far cry from the stock 16.7

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1991 Chevy Camaro RS TBI w/auto
Mods:
Edelbrock TES Headers, REALLY high flow cat, 2 1/2 in catback flowmaster, 160 stat, hypertech chip, MSD ignition (rotor, cap, superconduct. wires), Bosch quad4 plugs, Ram Air Box twin snorkel, all TBI mods, no smog stuff, no EGR, lots of suspention and alignment upgrades, and a big Chevy bowtie sticker on the back.

Fastest e.t.:
15.42 @ 88.19mph
Fastest 60 foot:
2.113

 

I'm a little confused. Definatly sounds like you need to do some more tuning.
You shaved .16 of your 60' and in a 15-16second car that should shave off about 3 tenths at the other end of the track. What rear diff do you have? stock?

 

yes the rear is stock...2.73 w/ A/T. I didn't understand how my 60 foot times dropped so much either. There has been no other changes made and you would think any improvements would come at the end of the track where "Ram" effect would be at its greatest. I was confused too, but here are my fastest before/ after times (sorry I don't have a scanner):
BEFORE:
60- 2.219
330- 6.466
1/8- 10.008 @ 69.23
1000-13.069
1/4- 15.643 @ 87.69
AFTER:
60- 2.113
330- 6.299
1/8- 9.857 @ 70.48
1000-12.873
1/4- 15.425 @ 88.19

If there is some tuning that can increase my gains at the end of the track please let me know. I must be going lean up top and that is why my gains are not more uniform??? My 1000 ft. times are very close before/after which doesn't seem right. I didn't think a ram air system would help my 60 foot at all, and I seem to have something wrong by mt 1000 ft. times so any insight would help!!

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1991 Chevy Camaro RS TBI w/auto
Mods:
Edelbrock TES Headers, REALLY high flow cat, 2 1/2 in catback flowmaster, 160 stat, hypertech chip, MSD ignition (rotor, cap, superconduct. wires), Bosch quad4 plugs, Ram Air Box twin snorkel, all TBI mods, no smog stuff, no EGR, lots of suspention and alignment upgrades, and a big Chevy bowtie sticker on the back.

Fastest e.t.:
15.42 @ 88.19mph
Fastest 60 foot:
2.113

 

sorry...double posted

[This message has been edited by My305camaro (edited October 29, 2001).]

 

BEFORE: 60- 2.219
AFTER: 60- 2.113

You dropped approx 0.1 sec in the first 60'. Assuming you did nothing to the chassis, or tires, or tire pressure, and also assuming that the air temps didn't materially change much, then I see only the effects of NOT allowing warm air into the engine, so you got a torque boost that equates to 0.1 sec improvement. That is that the 60' time gain had ZERO to do with "ram air" but had everything to do with isolation from warm/hot underhood air.


BEFORE: 1/4- 15.643 @ 87.69
AFTER: 1/4- 15.425 @ 88.19

You gained around 0.5 mph based on the trap speed, which means you did improve the peak hp but not by huge amounts. That suggests that the open element you previously had did ok once the car was moving and the warm underhood air was well flushed by the car moving at speed. So you got a little from the "ram air", but really, ram air is overstated on cars that are only going 90 to 100 mph at the end of a drag run. Ram air would be much more important on a car doing 160+ at the end of a run.

The big change is the 0.22 sec improvement, which equates to the isolation and prevention of warm air getting into the engine at all engine and all car speeds. That's more suggestive of a torque increase (as a result of no-warm-air) at all engine speeds, and that's coupled with a 5 hp peak power gain (from the 0.5 mph improvement).

So even though you may think "ram air", the reality is that what you did improved performance more by not allowing warm/hot underhood air into the engine, rather than by a true ram air system.

The main variable not stated by you was the track air temps, both for the BEFORE run and for the AFTER run this weekend.

It's also not a stretch to think that what you got this weekend may not really be your best; so the comparison you have thus far may not be as good as it could be. You may need more runs, with more attention to launch technique and tire pressures.

I don't think there's much mystery in the 1000' time: 13.07 before, 12.87 after. That's 0.2 sec and consistent with the time difference for the full quarter BEFORE-AFTER. It may mean you have peaked out on the gain and that your car is too lean at that point and the car can't go any faster even though you can pull more air. I'd say you probably are leaning out so you need to start working the fuel pressure, and the vFPR is one (cheap) way to go without killing your overall fuel economy.

I also didn't see you mention an ECM change, and that's going to be integral with really doing the tuning right. Working the tuning from the ECM side is the correct way to go, but you will probably find it easier to use the stock ECM calibration which should be fine for ordinary part-throttle driving, and use a fuel pressure increase at WOT to make up the difference. If you have the means to reflash the ECM, then it's a better approach. If you don't, try the vFPR.

You might also try using a 180 stat with no other changes, just to see how the car responds. It might like the 180 better with the stock ECM cal that I assume you are using. HTH. - Ken

 

Thanks for the help...I don't have the equipment to recalibrate my computer. I try to keep track of tire pressures/launch tech. but there is always room for improvement. Thanks for the info!!

Matt

------------------
1991 Chevy Camaro RS TBI w/auto
Mods:
Edelbrock TES Headers, REALLY high flow cat, 2 1/2 in catback flowmaster, 160 stat, hypertech chip, MSD ignition (rotor, cap, superconduct. wires), Bosch quad4 plugs, Ram Air Box twin snorkel, all TBI mods, no smog stuff, no EGR, lots of suspention and alignment upgrades, and a big Chevy bowtie sticker on the back.

Fastest e.t.:
15.42 @ 88.19mph
Fastest 60 foot:
2.113

 

There was a temp change before/after although not drastic (5-10 deg). The humidity was lower however (approx. 20% lower) which I'm sure helped.

 

Hey where is the air coming from? How are you getting ram air?

I understand what the box looks like but I can't figure out where the snorkles would go....


Thanks,
Jordan

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1990 Iroc
Canadian Iroc (305 TBI)
-14x3 open element, K&N
-Accel: Coil, Wires, Cap&Rotor
-B&M stage 2 shift Kit
- 4 255/50/ZR16 BFGoodrich Comp TA's
-Hypertech chip, low temp thermostat and fan switch
-1.6 ratio roller rockers
-3" exuast: High flow cat, meanstreak muffler, dual 2.5" outlets
-Holley projection Manifold
-670 Holley TBI.

 

sounds sweet, you should post pics of the set up for everyone. i am considering a dual ram air for my car
i will definately put pics of that up

later
tim

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91 Camaro RS-LO3,Auto
New Times Coming Soon!
Check Out The East Coast F-Body Nationals Home Page
www.geocities.com/njspeeder
My MAFB.ORG Home Page
www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=299
DSI Racing Home Page
www.geocities.com/foff667

 

I made my own Ram Air, by deleting a high beam. I'll get track results Friday, my best time is 15.9, without the nitrous spray or LT1 cam.

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1992 Camaro RS (Auto) 5.0L TBI
-
Performance mods
NOS (125 HP shot), Dynomax cat-back exhaust, Hedman headers, no cat, custom high beam delete ram air w/ K&N, MSD 6A ignition, MSD 8.5mm plug wires, LT1 camshaft
Soon to be installed:
Edelbrock Perfomer TBI intake, B & M 2200 RPM stall torque converter, Trans Go shift kit, World Products Torquer heads, Ed Wright Fast Chip

Audio
Sony Xplod CDX-M610 head unit, Pioneer 2-way 4x6 front speakers, Pioneer 3-way 6x9 rear speakers, 12 inch Pioneer VCCS PRO subwoofer, QLogic sealed box, Kicker ZR360 amplifier, Lightning Audio 1 farad capacitor

Other
Macewen White Faced Gauges/Shift overlay, A-pillar gauges (Phantom oil pressure, Air/Fuel), 180* thermostat, Window Tint, chrome valve covers, xenon headlights

 

IROC JT...
Do a search for my name and "Ram Air Box" I have written several articles regarding ordering,installation, and results. It is very detailed...I can answer any questions you have on this forum or by e-mail.

NJ Speeder
I will try to post some pics...I don't have a digital camera of my own but I can borrow one. Give me a day and I'll see what I can do.