GKK

With the modifications already done in my signature, what modifications next to get my car to 225hp and still be emmisions legal?

------------------
"91" RS, 305 tbi, 5spd, Slp Y-pipe, Random tech Cat, Flowmaster crossflow, Ultimate tbi mods, Edelbrock open element with 3" K&N, Taylor Spiro Pro wires, Redline water wetter, 180* thermostat.

Tas

igntion upgrades. MSD coil and maybe MSD box. How big is the pipe from the cat to the muffler?

GKK

The pipe from the cat to the muffler is 2 1/2" but, I'll probably change it to 3".

------------------
"91" RS, 305 tbi, 5spd, Slp Y-pipe, Random tech Cat, Flowmaster crossflow, Ultimate tbi mods, Edelbrock open element with 3" K&N, Taylor Spiro Pro wires, Redline water wetter, 180* thermostat.

Tas

you should be pretty close if not at 225HP. The only way to find out is with a dyno or ET from the 1/4 mile. Have you bumped up your fuel pressure? That should help.

GKK

I was going to check the oxygen sensor with my volt meter to see how rich or lean the car is but, I will probably just replace my o2 sensor 1st because the car has 79,000 miles and I want to get an accurate reading. I was also wondering if it would be better to put on an inline adjustable fuel pressure regulator. easier to adjust than having to unscrew the whole injector pod top everytime to make an adjustment.

KZad

What does a "Redline water wetter" do???

And, is there anything special about those Taylor Spiro Pro wires??? What size are they?

KZad


------------------
1988 Firebird Formula 305 TBI, T-Tops, RED.
Of course ... 5-Speed

GKK

Redline Water Wetter reduces the surface tension of the water allowing it to absorb heat from the engine water passages more easily. The Taylor Spiro Pro wires are a good quality replacement 8mm set. I read a lot of posts about these plug wires and a lot of people have recommended Taylor Spiro Pro. I like them and they are very good quality.

[This message has been edited by GKK (edited November 02, 2001).]

Pukka

I assume you have SLP headers to go with that Y-pipe.

How about a better intake manifold?
Even an aftermarket PROM or underdrive pulleys?


------------------
92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops

Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Richmond 3:42 gears, Torsen HD Posi
Sights & Sounds:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers. Z28 grille w/aftermarket lights, MacEwen whiteface gauges
NEXT UP: TBI & Suspension mods

GKK

No, I just have the y-pipe because I read other posts that said headers mainly work at 3000rpm and above and you'll lose torque below that. I didn't want to lose torque so I just bought the SLP y-pipe for a compromise. The y-pipe really helped out the performance and the sound of my car. It feels and sounds like I have headers.

------------------
"91" RS, 305 tbi, 5spd, Slp Y-pipe, Random tech Cat, Flowmaster crossflow, Ultimate tbi mods, Edelbrock open element with 3" K&N, Taylor Spiro Pro wires, Redline water wetter, 180* thermostat.

Zac's92

You aren't going to make 225 hp under 3000rpm any way so you might as well get the headers because they will make a big difference. they might even put you over 225hp.
Zac

DM91RS

The headers will not hurt torque any.

If anything they will give you more!

------------------
91 RS 5.0 TBI....LT4 cam....Edelbrock headers....3"Dynomax exhaust....5spd.... 3.08.....Ultimate tbi....afpr...ZR 255-50's...Koni's

bbtaz97

iTrader: (3)

THE BIGGEST PROBLEM WITH THE LO3 ENGINE IS IN THE HIGHER RPMS WITCH IS WHY ALOT OF PEOPLE DO PUT HEADERS AND Y-PIPE ON. YOU WILL PICK ENOUGH UP IN THE TOP END TO MAKE YOU FORGET ABOUT WHAT YOU LOST DOWN LOW. HEADERS ARE A GOOD INVESTMENT WITH THE LO3.

------------------
91 camaro RS
- 305 TBI
Mods: Performer TBI intake, 1" TBI spacer, K+N, jet fan switch ,160 thermo,Accel control module, Jet Stage 2 chip, edelbrock TES headers, Compleate 3" Flowmaster exhaust, Edelbrock springs, KYB struts and shocks, 700R4 built by TSI, SLP tq converter, b+m trans cooler, white guage faces, megashifter..
next month: spohn LCA's and panhard rod, BMR relocation brackets,posi 323 , lt1 cam and new valve springs

GKK

I'm not trying to make 225hp under 3000rpm, I just don't want to lose any torque under 3000rpm where I mainly drive. I don't want to have to rev my car to 3000rpm to get power when I already have power at 2000rpm. I'm trying to compromise everyday driving with performance.



------------------
"91" RS, 305 tbi, 5spd, Slp Y-pipe, Random tech Cat, Flowmaster crossflow, Ultimate tbi mods, Edelbrock open element with 3" K&N, Taylor Spiro Pro wires, Redline water wetter, 180* thermostat.

bbtaz97

iTrader: (3)

even with all the mods i have done.. i drive mine everyday back and forth to work.. i prob get about 17-19 mpg city driving.. one other point, the majority of the powerband of the lo3 isnt below 200 rpm anyway.

bbtaz97

iTrader: (3)

oopps... make that 2000 rpm

TMoNeE

iTrader: (1)

if your stepping on it, how much time are you under 3k anyways? plus i put headers on mine and if anything id say i have more power off the line.

GKK

When I'm in 4th gear in the city the engines reving about 2000rpm going around 50 mph or so, If I hit the gas the car responds very well from 2000rpm on up. That's what I want my car to still do with more modifications. I'm sure headers will give me a lot more power but, I just don't want the drawbacks associated with them ie... header bolts loosening, buying new longer plug wires to fit around the header pipes, burned plug boots, higher underhood temperatures etc... I think my next mods will be an Edelbrock intake, MSD coil and a Cowl induction hood.

------------------
"91" RS, 305 tbi, 5spd, Slp Y-pipe, Random tech Cat, Flowmaster crossflow, Ultimate tbi mods, Edelbrock open element with 3" K&N, Taylor Spiro Pro wires, Redline water wetter, 180* thermostat.

brodyscamaro

Get some stage 8bolts and some copper gaskets.
headers=better performance then manifolds.
got that?

------------------
Brady
"I see myself as a huge fiery comet, a shooting star. Everyone stops, points up and gasps "Oh look at that!" Then- whoosh, and I'm gone...and they'll never see anything like it ever again... and they won't be able to forget me- ever."~Jim Morrison


[This message has been edited by brodyscamaro (edited November 02, 2001).]

BahamutRS

Do something to the effect of what I have as done in my sig except the nitrous and you should have 225 HP.

------------------
1992 Camaro RS (Auto) 5.0L TBI
-
Performance mods
NOS (125 HP shot), Dynomax cat-back exhaust, Hedman headers, no cat, custom high beam delete ram air w/ K&N, MSD 6A ignition, MSD 8.5mm plug wires, LT1 camshaft
Soon to be installed:
Edelbrock Perfomer TBI intake, B & M 2200 RPM stall torque converter, Trans Go shift kit, World Products Torquer heads, Ed Wright Fast Chip

Audio
Sony Xplod CDX-M610 head unit, Pioneer 2-way 4x6 front speakers, Pioneer 3-way 6x9 rear speakers, 12 inch Pioneer VCCS PRO subwoofer, QLogic sealed box, Kicker ZR360 amplifier, Lightning Audio 1 farad capacitor

Other
Macewen White Faced Gauges/Shift overlay, A-pillar gauges (Phantom oil pressure, Air/Fuel), 180* thermostat, Window Tint, chrome valve covers, xenon headlights

My305camaro

I dropped a set of Edelbrock TES headers in my car and it gave me a big jump in 1/4 time. I liked the headers, although I would have bought the copper gaskets like someone said b/c the Edelbrock gaskets are horrible! I drive my car everyday, and I get better gas mileage than I did with the old manifolds, more power, and the headers look alot better when you open your hood. As for the wires...headers will roast wires if they are cheap and/or poorly routed. I had already planed to upgrade the stockers to MSD super conductors so I just bought the custom fit set and have not had any problems. Also make sure you get a "blanket" or some other heat sheild for your starter as it will soon be fried by the increased heat. Headers are one of the best bolt-ons you can do to help you to your goal.

------------------
1991 Chevy Camaro RS TBI w/auto
Mods:
Edelbrock TES Headers, REALLY high flow cat, 2 1/2 in catback flowmaster, 160 stat, hypertech chip, MSD ignition (rotor, cap, superconduct. wires), Bosch quad4 plugs, Ram Air Box twin snorkel, all TBI mods, no smog stuff, no EGR, lots of suspention and alignment upgrades, and a big Chevy bowtie sticker on the back.

Fastest e.t.:
15.42 @ 88.19mph
Fastest 60 foot:
2.113

JPrevost

lol, somebody lied to you about the loosing power under 3000rpm. Let me point a few things out to unbrain wash you . Headers help your engine make power with less effort. Lets think about something...torque is good for street yes! BUT in a 3500 f-body with a v8...I'm SURE you have plenty of torque anyways! There have been a lot of engine dynoes in magazines comparing hp "mode" vs torque "mode." They noticed that with all the new products, the torque loss at lower rpms was almost unnoticable but that the hp gains were unreal.
Do the headers and tune your fuel pressure and base timing.
If you want 225hp then headers and 1.6 rocker arms could probably put you there. If you want to go with an aftermarket intake that would probably give you 6-10 ontop of what you have now. Another cheap but time consuming job would be to do the Lt1 cam swap when you get a new intake manifold.
Search some of my old posts about getting into the 13's in the 1/4. I made a list of things that I would do to the Lo3 and how far I would go as far as bolt ons.
If you only take 2 things from what I've just said, make it fuel pressure and headers!
A v8 in a sports car is going to make plenty torque but if it has no ballz it'll get passed everytime. Be nice, don't think of your car as a truck, but picture it as a sports car with a truck engine that needs to be given some more breathing room

NJ SPEEDER

i was starting to wonder how long it would take for an informed source to respond.
the other thinbg i would like to add to what jon said is that plugs wires don't make any horse power, and an ignition won't produce anything worth the cost either.
the y-pipe is a big help, if the choice is to get either the headers or the intake i would pick the intake. the stock exhaust manifolds are a bit restrictive, but they are so short that the volume and flow of a good y-pipe like you have can make them acceptable. the intake will allow the motor to take a bit deepeer breath. you will want to get a bit more fuel intot he motor, so just bump up the pressure a little.

later
tim

------------------
91 Camaro RS-LO3,Auto
New Times Coming Soon!
Check Out The East Coast F-Body Nationals Home Page
www.geocities.com/njspeeder
My MAFB.ORG Home Page
www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=299
DSI Racing Home Page
www.geocities.com/foff667

killer305

iTrader: (1)

i never even considered getting a starter blanket, but im ordering one as soon as i buy my gauges

------------------
90 RS 305 tbi, 4 3/4" cowl Hood, Edelbrock TES headers, Flowmaster exhaust, Crane roller cam, comp roller rockers, vortec heads/intake, ported tbi, w/new injectors, MSD probillet Distributer/ coil, 1 inch tbi spacer, air foil, 14x4 k&n flat base air cleaner, Rebuilt 700r4 w/ B&M shift kit, B&M Megashifter, 3.23 posi, 2 12 RF's with mtx amp, top of line alpine cd player, soon to have 90-91 gfx, z-28 wing, new paintjob, rims, and all new lowered suspension.

EROCK

I have done most of the mods you guys have done and I had no idea that I was even close to 200. I thought like 185 or so. Maybe I was wrong. The headers did drop me 3 tenths in the eighth mile. That was a pretty big gain. I could run with guys that I could not before. I was and still am pretty shocked.

Eric

------------------
Teal 1991 Camaro R.S., T-Tops,
Leather, Re-worked 700r4 also w/kit,
MSD ignition, MSD 8.5 mm. superconductor wires,
MSD Coil, ADS superchip, Open element air cleaner,
K-n-N filter, Gutted cat, Flowmaster cat-back system,
Edelbrock TES headers, March 3piece billet underdrive pulleys
3.73 gears
http://www.geocities.com/gitarz2/camaro.html
I was shocked to see that companies sold a taillight
set for a rustang! Since when do they have taillights????

JPrevost

Like Tim said, MSD isn't worth the money. If you have a LOT of compression and are running a pretty wild cam, THEN I would consider it. Personally I think it's a waste of money. Best bet would be to get a higher voltage coil and regap the plugs to about .040 (from .035). If you have problems, go back to the smaller gap. That's as far as I would go even if I had a 10:1 450hp 350.
As for headers and the such, understand that gears WILL wake the car up. Especially as far as ET, maybe not much in the mph.
Definatly play with fuel pressure to make sure you're tuned.
MAF can get away with power adders but speed density needs to be tuned every time or you'll run lean. I can't stress this enough except to tell you that even I ran a 15.8 when my engine was starving! That was with 3.73s and posi but darn thing wouldn't idle, wouldn't pull beyond 3000rpm. Right after the swap (when had 3.08 open diff) I ran a 14.8 and that was with a stock eprom still running lean, but not as bad. See the difference! Ask Tim and Randy about running lean and what it'll do to your ETs, it's sick. No power unless you have the right amount of fuel. You can pump all the air you want into your engine, it isn't going to combust unless you've got the go juice.