like it states above what torque converter are people running with their lt1 cam swaped lo3

 

I have a l05, 700r4 with at 16-2200 Rpm Lockup

 

of the cheaper converters u can by most ppl are running hughes over bm and tci

 

If you are running lower than a 2400 stall just go with a GM converter. You can get a 2200 stall for about 105$ at advanced auto. Just have them look up a converter for a mid 80's vett or a 4.3 blazer/s-10.

GM had 3 stall ratings for every tranny. The way the part numbers worked when I bought mine was that the low stall was GM18L, med stall was GM18, and the high stall was GM18H. Don't quote me on the part number as this was many years ago. Basically the high stall will get you aroun 2000 rpm stall with a weak small block and over 2400 with a stout torque monster. You won't need furnace brazed fins and the likes that the aftermarket converter tout.

 

i ended up getting a deal on a bowtie overdrive 2400 stall for 130 shipped i just got it instaled and am pretty happy but i have a question are there any specifics i have to tune for on my chip for upgrading my torque converter ohh heres the link for the torque converter

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata...php?ITEMID=274

 

i was told too use a 3500 stall for my 350 carb moter swap

 

Nothing much in the chip has to be changed, you can try experimenting with the lockup tables to help retain your mileage when under light throttle but it's not neccesary. You can also play with your low RPM timing in an effort to give the motor a running start at the converter. Basically you can add a bit more timing under stall speed since the motor won't be loaded at low rpm.

Edit: A 3500 stall would be about useless on a street driven motor, and a really bad choice on a bolt-on only LO3 as the torque peak is right below the stall speed.

 

I agree most street engine maximum would be 2800 stall speed..it really depends on camshaft, cylinder head flow and rear differential gearing.

 

I have a 20-2200 stall converter, I can't remember who made it, it's not a very big brand though.

I was pretty happy with it(haven't driven that car in a while), I'm not sure I'd want to go higher though, not on a relatively stock motor. definitely is dependant on where your power peaks are at.

I didn't see any gas mileage loss, btw.

 

if you run a positive to the wire leading to the trany you can manualy lock up stock converter as its acuated thru computer to lock up. just get a standerad switch feed it its own power then connect then from other side of switch feed that too the solinoid wire on the side .you will be automatic 1 and 2 while in 2nd gear turn switch on then its locked completly up so you shift the remaining 2 youself but turn iy off at stop sign or youlle kill youre moter
only works on the 700r4

 

i don't think anything in the above post is correct. you need to supply the TCC a ground to lock it. also, it cannot be locked in 1st gear, so stalling it is impossible. this can only happen if the TCC is broken.

 

this is the ase certified transmision specialist told me and yes it does work hehas done it already and im going carb got me a 3000-7500 cam from doug herbert with a 50000 volt hei and dart headson a 5.7 i get 3 mpg