Alright,

I was just browsing NAPA's site to see what their proces were for a new EGR valve. Now that I am working part time and have at least some income again, I was thinking that it might be best to get to replacing it soon. Especially with premium gas being >$4.00 a gallon now. Probably would pay for itself in no time.

My question is, NAPA showes 2 different valves, one for an automatic car, and a different one for a 5-spd car. The one for the MT looks like mine, while the AT one has a different shaped base...

Now, the ones at NAPA (OEM made by Delphi) are like $85 according to the site. Autozone has one that is like $60. However, autozones catalog shows the same valve for both automatic and T5 cars. Does this make any sense to you guys? If there really is 2 different EGR valves, do they actually work differently, or is the base just different??

----------------

Another question. Is it even possible that the EGR valve could go bad without throwing a code or an SES light?? If not, then I am not gonna waste my time and money.

I tested it with my finger, and the motor does stumble when you move the diaphragm. However, the diaphragm takes alot of effort to move, like you gotta press REALLY hard with 1 finger. If I revv the motor in N while looking at it, the diaphragm shakes back and forth a little, bit doesent actually open any appreciable amount.

-----------------

last question for now...

I need to know what specifical tool I might need to get the valve bolts out. I think I remember it looking like a torx, but it looked like the end of a torx screwdriver. Not something you could stick a torx driver into.



Thanks for helping as always guys.

 

Bump.

 

I have not had an EGR since 01 and get around 20 mixed driving with 3.73 rear gears. [I'm not satisfied with mpg fyi] Anyway the cash spent for a new one is allot of gas in my book.

I greatly believe in used parts when possible. Just be sure to check yours out correctly before passing judgment..........

 

Slow, there's not really too much to an EGR valve, a diaphram, a spring, and typically a metered port and a valve. Sometimes the difference in units (like the manual vs. the auto) is in the valve metering which controls how fast the valve reacts to change in MAP.

If $ is tight, I'd take this one off and take a close look at it before replacing it. It sounds like it passed the "push it with your finger" test, assuming the idle cleared up nice once you let the pressure off.

With the unit off, take a close look at the valve itself (right at the flange), typically you can see if its goobered up or not lining up well and not closing well. If you have a friendly auto parts store compare it to a new one. When you push the diaphram in and then let it release, it should release at close to the same speed as a new one.

If you have a hand vacuum pump (like for bleeding brakes) make sure the diaphram holds a vaccuum, or put a piece of tubing on it and draw some vaccuum with your mouth (the friendly way to say it).

If it passes all those tests its probably ok.

I don't like the aftermarket replacment ones, I get GM or AC delco ones from gmpartsdirect.com or rockauto.com

Paul T.

 

Well if the valve isnt bad, then what else would cause excessive knock? I have the timing right where it needs to be for the emission control sticker. I tried going more retarded than 0*, and the knock just got worse and the car went much slower.

Here is my 2 vids of the problem-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1MyOODy9W0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiBzxxvy3FQ

also, how are the aftermarket valves different than the factory one? Would it be worth it to just buy the Delphi one from NAPA??

Also, do you have any insight about those bolts ?

Thanks, I appreciate the help.

 

I hear you haft to modify the aftermarket ones sometimes to fit right, I was told to make sure I got a delco one. I actually just had to order one for my car and I was going to get it from rockauto or gmparts direct since they where the only placed I could find the delco, I got the part number and entered it online and I ended up finding a new delco one on ebay for 49 something shipped. way cheaper than the other places, you might consider doing the same just make sure u get the right part number. If you need help locating one like that let me know the parts #'s and ill find one for you.


I had a shop in town see what they could get one for they showd 120, there no way i was payin that.

If you come across an EGR solenoid connector let me know i cant seem to find one.

 

****. I really didnt want to have to buy something this stupid online.

I guess I will keep pouring premium, and not worry about the EGR.

I did find a delco one on rockauto for like $71 shipped to my house.

 

I wanted to get one locally as well so i could get it done an go back for inspection, but I dont wanna pay that much. I think its better to buy a quality part to begin with and deal with the wait. AC delco came on these cars so I think its the better option plus to avoid any fitment issues. Why not just order it and run premium until you get it?

I also get the pinging noise if I dont use premium right now and mine also caused me to fail nox. on emmisions.

oh also the only part of the EGR system that will throw a code is the solenoid, its th only part hooked to the ecm, so if the valve its self is bad it wont throw a light.

 

hmm. IDK I guess I just hate building up dept on the credit card. Because I just got paid for the first time since last summer, and I make roughly $100 a week with my new job. I owe my mom a few G though, and she is gonna be pissed if I use the card to buy something online. I was hoping to just do a cash transaction at the parts counter, you know?

Another thing that leads me to believe it might be the EGR valve is that the fuel milage has gone down the tubes, even though I gave it new plugs, cap, rotor, brand new dizzy, air filter, fuel filter, and various other maintenence.

 

ok that makes since.

mine has gradually gotten worse as well, then i failed nox really bad which would explain both, so im hopin thats my issue and that I pass.

 

I am almost wondering if the "OEM" delphi unit from NAPA is any good?? I imagine Delphi makes decent stuff. And the good thing about there, is if it didnt fit, they will usually try and take care of you. I sheared a NAPA CV axle in 2 places on my last car, and they gave me a new one for free, along with most of the parts it took out like the tie rods, ball joint, ect.

I just want this thing to run right again. If it costs $100, so be it. It would be worth it in the long run. But I still want to save money where I can.

 

the replacement valve from auto zone is made for a variety of vehicles. when you get the new one you read the p/n on your valve and there is an assortment of little metal discs with different sizes of holes through the center. you find the correct p/n for your application and stick the disc into the valve's crossover passageway and usa a hammer and punch (or old screwdriver) to crimp some metal from the valve's casting over the edge of the disc to hold it in place. before you spend the money you should probably try to clean out the passages in the old one. and see if that helps.

 

I would try a used one from the classifieds or auto salvage.

Mine came off with a key on the lower nut.

 

Clean the port on your manifold too.

 

Alright. Looks like I will be taking a trip down to NAPA to see what their one looks like... if It looks like the OEM valve, and just bolts on, then maybe I will get it.

And what do you mean "yours came off with a key" ?? What kind of key, like a house key, or a wheel lock key??

Thanks guys for all the info. I would take mine off and try cleaning it, but I havent figgered how to get those bolts out yet...

 

Sorry, I intended a regular wrench.
Its not the torx looking one u need loose but the nut, if I remember right.

 

Thanks guys for all the info. I would take mine off and try cleaning it, but I havent figgered how to get those bolts out yet...[/quote]

try a small box end wrench with an offset, you can "buy" one at auto zone then return it later.

 

When I set my timing according to that sticker, it destroyed my mileage, lost tons of torque, and caused knock too. I found on mine about 6* of advance worked out nicely. Mileage is acceptable, no knock, and torque is back.

I recently went through a faulty EGR. I just kept scouring the local junkyards until I found one. Got it for $3.00

 

The Delphi EGR valve from Napa looked exactly like my stock one I had in my L03. I didn't have any problems putting the new one in either, it fits perfect.

Make sure they give you the right one though. My local napa has two different EGR valves, like you said, one for the manual and one for the automatic. They ordered the one for the automatic for me (since my car is an auto) and it was the wrong valve. Ended up taking it back and having them order me the one for the manual.. I had a similar issue with napa's EGR valves on another car, I think it's a problem in their system with the part numbers.

 

so is the valve really different between manual and auto cars??

--------

Also, I was wondering this. I remember somebody saying that if you get a good flowing exhaust on the LO3, that you need to drill out something on the EGR valve. What exactly are you supposed to do, because maybe I would do that in advance, so it will be prepared for a nicer exhaust down the road.

 

Well, got the new EGR on order from NAPA. Should be here tomarrow sometime.

Tonite, I managed to get the old EGR valve off. It is extremely stiff and rough moving to push the diaphragm. I sprayed some deep creep in there, and into the ports, and then I sprayed carb cleaner into the EGR ports on the intake.

The deep creep seemed to help the old valve, but only a little bit. When I put it all back together, I did notice it opening and closing somewhat when I gently rolled onto the throttle.

Went for a drive and the car feels like a totally different car. It is quicker, has more *****, and the exhaust tone changed so it sounds meaner. Now, this one is the real puzzler. When I was clutching and shifting gears, it seems a little smoother than before!!

Hopefully the new valve they get me is the right one, and it resolves the issue permanently.

 

Sounds like the original EGR is probably crusted up and not flowing well. This would explain your knocking problem, when the ECM thinks the EGR valve is open it leans the mixture up to compensate for the inert exhaust gas injection. Since not much inert gas was flowing, this is making your mixture too lean and prone to knock.

Paul T.

 

When you order the valve, you can always have them show you a picture to make sure it's the right one. They have pictures of both valves in their system, so it's pretty easy to tell which one is the right one.

Also, I don't know if there's a difference between manual and auto EGR valves. I think they're the same. I'm wondering if the two different EGR's napa has are different because one is for a TBI and the other is for a TPI. Not sure though.

 

I got mine changed today. on the old one if I pushed the disc up and stuck my finger over the vaccum hole it just came down, the new ones stays so I guess mine completely went out. My car felt a lot better with the new one.