http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/88814/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD/121/6421K/10002/-1

Will that water pump and ignition system be good for my supercharged 305 buildup?
I wanted that ignition system so I can set a rev limiter for my T56 swap.

 

The water pump is a water pump, nothing too magical about it. I don't know if that distributor will work with your TBI.

 

Yeh, but I was just checking its the correct item water pump that my car uses. Wouldent want to put the wrong flow direction in or anything.

 

Yes, that's the right one, if you've got the serpentine accessory setup.

 

Yes, ive got serpentine, thanks.

Whats the limit on the stock ignition system? In case i decide to be cheap and just keep it for a while.

 

The limit in terms of what?

 

Limit as in horsepower.

I just want to know if its fine for my engine after I finish adding the supercharger, heads, cam, and intake manifold.

 

It'll do fine for a long time, but you'll need computer tuning.

 

Ive got EBL Flash and im going to just raise my fuel pressure so it runs rich and drive to the dyno and get it all tuned there.

But if the stock ignition will be fine then ill just get the MSD 6AL-2 for the rev limiter and thats it.

 

The EBL has a rev limiter in the software. First is a timing retard to pull power, then a fuel cut. Can be set up to use one or the other or both together.

RBob.

 

Oh thats excellent Rbob, you really did put everything in there. Ill just set that up and save myself 650$.

Any advice on what would a good set up? I imagine no more then 5500rpm. What setting do I need to change?

 

Pulling timing is there to both alert the driver that he is over-revving (the engine loses power), and to soften the blow of the fuel cut. This one is key to keeping the driver off of the fuel cut.

One thing to remember is that a fuel cut is abrupt. The purpose is to save the engine in the case of driveline breakage or lost traction. It isn't something that you want to be hitting on a regular basis.

If the shift point is 5500 RPM set the timing retard RPM at 5700 to 5800. Have it reduce the timing by 25 to 30 percent. You can set the RPM lower and try it to see if that is enough retard to easily feel.

Then set the fuel kill to 6200 RPM or there abouts. The RPM point where the fuel is turned back on can be debated. It is better to have the fuel turn on above the spark retard RPM to that it doesn't hit as hard. So using a 5900 RPM turn on will work with the spark reduction at 5800 RPM.

The four parameters to set:

OVSPD - RPM SA Reduction (8cyl)
OVSPD - SA Reduction
OVSPD - RPM fuel Cutoff (8cyl)
OVSPD - RPM fuel Resume (8cyl)

For ignition I use:

Small cap distributor
Oil style cannister coil, Jegs or Summit house brand, "Made in USA" <-important
Borg Warner Select series wires, spiral wound
AutoLite standard plugs (orange box) gapped to .035"
Standard brand cap & rotor with brass terminals

RBob.

 

Thanks a ton Rbob. But im not 100% whats a safe rpm for my set up. Im keeping all stock internals, so do you think 5500rpm is good for my 305? The redline on my stock tach is at 5000rpm

Also since im going with a supercharger, would the fuel cut damage the supercharger?

Thanks for the ignition set up your using, I already have new wires and i havent had any problems with my ignition system, so ill just keep it stock until I run into problems.

I made a thread in the power adder section asking about spark plugs if you have any idea which ones I need.

 

Hard to say what a max safe RPM is. I had a lot of folks tell me that the 287 (30 over 283) would let loose above 6000 RPM. Was regularly shifted at 7400 for quite a while.

Anyway, with a positive displacement super charger boost is built early. No need to rev the engine for power. You may find that 5000 RPM provides plenty of HP. The biggest killer of engines is detonation. Need to really ease into the boost and read the plugs.

I'd run plugs that are a couple of heat ranges colder. Depends upon the level of boost how cold to go. Then tighten up the gaps so that they fire with the elevated cylinder pressure. Again, will need to experiment a little to get the best SA along with the best heat range and the best gap. Standard orange box AutoLites will work fine.

And cheaper to replace once peppered from detonation.

RBob.

 

So 5500rpm should be safe then?

And ill just try those spark plugs to give me a starting point, thanks.