Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

hah hah, really? awesome man.

And he still has a lot of the stuff for sale. I think he wanted 200$ for all the seats, both front and rear. They were black leather.

He has engine and transmission too if anyones interested, from a 1999 LS1/T56 I think 110k miles on it. Still drove good when he took it all out.

If anyone is interested in anything just PM me and ill ask him for you.


The water pump I got is clockwise. So I went ahead and ordered Edelbrock 8881.
Im just going to return the Weiand one when it comes.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

Anyone got pictures of how the rocker arms go on?
Im not to sure how they go one, the stock washer/nut doesent fit, the guy I bought em from gave them to me in a bag that have a bunch of nuts/bolts and stuff. Im not sure how they go on [I know im dumb, lol]

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

I figured out the rocker arms.

I got the new cam in today, i rented a harmonic balancer puller.
Im just not sure how to get the old crank gear off?
My dad said he'd help me get it off tomorrow and then I can put the new timing chain on.

How should the new crank gear go on?
It has 3 notches in it that say A, B, and C on each notch
Which notch should I put on the notch on the crank?

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

And in the first picture, thats how I removed the timing chain.
Am I completed screwed because I just read to line up the 2 dots first......

Or can I just put the timing chain back on and turn it so it lines up?
I installed the new cam with that little rod [the little metal thing that sticks out the back] in the same spot as it was in that first picture.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

I got the new timing chain on, with the crank gear.

The chain and everything is a little bit wider then the stock one, and I read somewhere about it rubbing? Should this be an issue?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I don't know if you figured your water pump issue out or not. If you are using the older v belt setup its a clockwise rotation. If it's a serpentine belt setup its counterclockwise. If you haven't bought a pump yet I'd recommend stewart components.

On the timing chain, make sure you read the instructions and find out which mark installs the cam straight up. (Unless you are wanting to advance or retard it)

I haven't read about any problems with the double roller chain rubbing the timing cover but that doesn't mean anything.

Have you adjusted your rockers yet? Did you pump up the lifters before you put them in?

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

I figured out the water pump. Went with an Edelbrock 8881, reverse rotation. I returned the first one I bought because it was standard rotation. Im using the stock serpentine set-up.

I found the timing chain instructions, Just line up the dots.

I used a lot of heavy weight oil, and assembly lube on the lifters.

The rocker arms, dont I just tighten them so that they are firm on the push rod? Like hand tighten?

The far back passages on my intake manifold gasket are covered up?
Im just going to cut them open. Are they supposed to be closed?
It doesnt make much sense since the intake manifold and heads both have openings there. I think its for coolant, the ones all the way at the back of the block.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

Heres a picture of my intake and my new valve covers with breathers.

I might get another Spectre 45 or 60degree bend tube if this one doesent fit under my Cowl hood, but it should. Its a 90 degree bend tube in the picture.

thomas1976

Installing the thiming chain + cover vould have been easyr to do before mounting the oil pan. Make sure the double chain does not rub, I too have read it could happen with the stock cover.

In the "ultimate LT1 cam" stiky is a complete write up on how to tighten the rocker arms/ pushrodes. (rotate crank in the correct fiering order, 0 lash and 3/4 turn,)

I remember the rear coolant passages having just a tiny 3-4mm diameter hole, looks like the rear passages are not really used.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

Well I cut open the holes on the gasket.....
Is that bad? Or can I just put it on without issue?

Ill look at the guide for the rocker arms, and yeh now that I realize it, it would have been easier to do the cam with the oil pan off, lol.

Can I just do the "hot adjustment" for the rocker arms, when I get everything together? Seems easier.

thomas1976

Dont know for the rear cooling passages.

For the hot adjustment I would do it with someone dat knows how it has to sound, I also immagine oil going everiwere.
The cold one is not complicated, just read it tru a few times.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I missed what type of intake you are using?

I think the easiest way to adjust rocker arms is this. I have been doing it for years and found this to be the best result.

If the engine has never been ran and it's best to do it with the intake off so you can see the lifter cups. If the engine hasn't been ran the lifters will not be pumped up all the way and will make it a little more difficult.

Lets say you are starting on #1 cylinder and are wanting to adjust the intake valve.

Turn the engine over, either with a breaker bar or remote starter if it's in car, until the exhaust valve is all the way open. If one valve is all the way open the other has to be all the way closed.

Spin the intake pushrod between two fingers and start to tighten the rocker arm nut. What you are looking for is resistance, that's zero lash. If the lifter is all the way pumped it is easier to feel. If it's not it's best to watch the lifter cup. If the lifter isn't pumped up it's easy to miss zero lash because there won't be enough pressure pushing against the rocker arm to tighten everything up. If you just tighten it up and don't watch the lifter cup its easy to go past zero lash and then the valve won't shut all the way.

Once you get to zero lash back the nut off and tighten it up a couple times. This helps settle everything together. Once you think you know where zero lash is go 1/2 turn more, that's your preload.

I know a lot of books say 1 turn or 3/4 turn. I personally think that's to much. I think 1/2 turn is good. You should be able to back it off 1/2 turn the the pushrod should spin freely.

After you get one valve done turn the engine over until the other valve is all the way open and repeat. I know there is a way to follow the firing order, turn the engine 1/2 of turn and adjust 4 rocker arms or something like that. That always confused me and found it easier to do one cylinder at a time.

If you are turning it over by hand leave the spark plugs out. It makes it a lot easier.

Hope this helps.
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You want to do the hot adjustment after you break the engine in and change the oil. It is messy to do. Take one valve cover off and start the engine. It will get hot and smokey fast. Start with the first rocker and back it off till it starts clicking. Then slowly tighten it down till it stops. Thats zero lash. Then go 1/2 turn after that.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

Intake is Edelbrock 3704
I went ahead and just bought a new gasket and put it on.

The lifters and pushrods and the ones that have been on it since 1992, motor only has 45k miles on it and they all looked to be in good condition.

I put the intake on, all the lifters and in, and the pushrods are coming up through the heads.

I think I understand it a little better now. Get a valve fully open and tighten the rocker arm til theirs a little resistance on the pushrod, then tighten it 1/2 turn more. When its fully open the pushrod will push up? correct?

The engine should be on 0 TDC or w.e, so its on the 1st cyl, right?
Which one is the first cyl?
and which direction should I turn the crank, and what cyl would come next?

Is it worth spending the 20$ on the crank turning socket? I went to autozone and even the biggest socket they had dident fit the crank. The way I got it to 0 TDC was to use a money wrench, but I dont want to risk damaging it and would like to adjust the rocker arms the right way.
I dont have a breaker bar.

Thanks for all the help!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Those lifters/pushrods should be fine. The lifters should be good and pumped up.

Yes get one valve completely open and adjust the one that is closed.

You should turn the engine clockwise. Like you are tightening the bolt. If you try to go the other way you can loosen the balancer bolt.

If you don't have the balancer on it yet you can use a 1/2 drive socket as a spacer. Put the bolt through the socket then bolt it crank.

It doesn't matter if the cylinder you are trying to adjust is on TDC. Just make sure one valve is all the way open and the other is closed. The pushrod will raise up and push the rocker arm which opens the valve. Once you get a few rockers on and turn the engine over all of this will make more sense.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

I feel dumb now, lol.

So I tighten the rocker arm that has the pushrod all the way down into the engine?

I guess ill just put the timing chain cover on. My timing cover gasket set, came with a few items that I assume go behind the crank gear. I neglected to change those. Should I be okay? I put the cam gear on with loc-tite, so id like to avoid killing myself trying to take those off if I can.

I just need the gasket that goes around the timing chain cover? thats basically what im asking.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

Also my friend said the valve cover vent filters I got will spit oil..... is that true? Hes trying to talk me into getting a catch can.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Man you really should get a haynes manual and read through it. It sounds like you have started on an adventure that you don't really know anything about. I am not slamming you in any way but I think you should learn a little bit more about it before you dive in. If not you are going to have an engine that doesn't run right or is junk.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

Ive got the Haynes manual. Im just trying to double check everything... So i DONT end up with a junk engine.
Would it be better for me to be putting this together while being unsure about things? That sounds like the way to mess it up to me, not asking questions.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

I got all the lifters set, wasent that hard. Took maybe 30min.

But im flat *** broke. Im thinking of just slapping my stock 700r4 in, getting it tuned, and calling it a day

How long you all reckon the 700 will last? Only 45k miles on it, but ive heard they are pretty weak..... Besides the dyno tune, ill be pretty easy on it 90% of the time.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

I went ahead and got a Pro-Built 700r4 from someone off the forums, along with a 3000rpm Edge torque convertor. So it should be good.

But, I went ahead and put my new 36mm front sway bar on, and wanted to put the new motor mounts I got on. Anyone have tips for getting the motor mounts off? Did you have to take the A-arms off? They are being a PITA.