new fuel pump, turn ignition key in on position and you can hear the pump prime then the car runs and is driveable for about a minute or two before wanting to stall if I give it gas ,The fuel pump comes on at this point humming until the engine stalls , If I restart it repeats the same thing . as if the engine is running on only the prime ,Maybe the little rubber hose I put on the new pump is not tight enough? or a leak somewhere? any help appreciated.

 

If you haven't already, check your fuel pump relay.

It's a strange system, but there is also an oil pressure sensor that goes into the block above the oil filter which is related to the fuel system electric circuit.

If you have oil pressure and this sensor is good, your fuel pump should be running (actually even with the key off if somehow you had oil pressure)

 

I havent checked the relay , would the pump not run if it was a bad relay? , I do have good oil pressure . Its just strange that the car will prime then be quiet and drive fine then here comes that loud priming noise from the pump and shortly after loss of power and stall. I keep thinking maybe a leaky fuel line or something similar ,I will have to check the fuel pressure soon but it is a new pump so I doubt thats it, this one has me thinking.

 

My fuel pump is no longer only getting loud before the engine stalls , its now running all the time as long as the engine is running . Something is causing the engine to sputter and die out , it starts up revs to 2000 rpm drops to an erratic idle 1200 -800 rpm and will hold it for awhile before stalling

If I drive it this way it will stall much sooner ..cant wait till the weekend to get a pressure test on that fuel line .

 

1) Check the fuse in the engine bay - it's beside the battery, in the fenderwell, kinda tucked behind/beside the battery - make sure it's not blown - blown fuse here = no fuel pump.

2) Check the relay. Relay is on driver side firewall, between brake booster and fender. There is a bracket attached to the firewall with 2 10mm bolts - there's also a flat connector mounted on the front of this bracket. Take the bracket off, there are 2 relays on the backside of the bracket. One is fuel pump, other is fan - the one for the fan has a large black wire with red stripe - you'll know it, that one wire is much larger than any others there. Swap the relays, and see what happens. BUT - keep an eye on your temp guage - if the fuel pump relay was bad, now the bad one is on the fan circuit, and you won't have any radiator fan!

3) If 1 or 2 didn't solve the problem, check the Oil Pressure Sending Unit (OPSU) - located above oil filter on driver side block. It has a connector with three wires, two are larger than the third, and those two control the fuel pump. Remove the fuse from #1 above, then remove the connector from the OPSU. Cut/shape a paperclip to jump those two larger wires right in the end of the connector. Replace fuse - the pump should run constantly regardless of the key as long as these are jumped and that fuse is in place. If the pump runs like this, but wouldn't run from #1 or #2 above, then you need a new OPSU - about $35.

Hope that helps - Good Luck!

 

Thanks for trying to help . I will get to this problem this weekend hopefully .
I believe you may think I am not getting power to my fuel pump but that is not the case , it is running constantly until the engine stalls .


I have already done a TBI rebuild and am sure its working fine since now I have a nice conical spray from the injectors until the engine sputters out and dies and it sprays a bit of air .

At this point I am going to remove the fuel pump and make sure the rubber hose on the pump has not slid off due to pressure/ improper fastening because the aftermarket pump outlet was smaller then the sending units input , actually it was much smaller ,small enough that it would slide into the sending units fuel line.

 

BTW this new pump is very loud , when I say loud I mean you can hear this thing buzzing from outside the vehicle several feet away . this could be due to the sending unit making contact with the tank though , all the more reason for me to pull the sucker out . I didnt bother going from the bottom I just cut out from the top of the tank so its easily accessible .

 

Sorry - I read all this about the pump, and I assumed the pump was quitting before the engine died.

Maybe, if you find nothing with the pump/sender, check electrical. You obviously have gas, all that's left is spark and air. Maybe the ignition module in the distributor - they can start, run for a minute, and then crash when they get warm.

Good luck!

 

Removed fuel pump today and it was the damn rubber hose that was improperly fastened that was causing my car to stall , She runs now . unfortuantely though after having sat for a few years I got a slight piston knock on the drivers side , I believe I have a project ahead of me . damn shame.