Hey, new to the forum, i recently traded for a 1989 305 rs. When i first got it, it had an overheating issue, that was worked out and now it no longer runs above 220.

I am now having an issue, with what, i am not sure. Basically after about 30 minutes of driving, city or highway, my car starts to shutter, bog, then die. I will try to start it but it just wont, it jumps up to 500 rpm then immediatly shuts off.

I began to tinker and i found that if i take the prongs off of the top of the injecters and crank it a few times, then place the prongs back on, it will usually start like nothing happened.

Based off of this I believe my car is getting flooded, so by cranking it without the injecters hooked up it allows the remaining fuel to burn off.

SO far i have replaced the spark plugs, rotor, idle air control valve, o2 censor. I believe it could be a bad fuel pressure regulator, maybe i need a new fuel pump?

Also my car will idle at about 20mph when cold, this also leads me to believe my car is getting to much fuel, from the bad FPR.

Any help is appreciated!

 

Ignition module.....

 

Hmm, I didnt think about that I did replace the ignition coil also.

What would a bad ignition module affect?

 

Everything. And its relatively cheap.

 

I will give it a go, thanks!

 

Could a mass air flow censor also attribute to it possibly?

 

Yes, but its way higher than an ignition control module. I would see if the local Autozone could test my ICM to see if it was bad....(though that may not be conclusive...)

 

Well i was thinking, it couldnt be the ICM, im not having a spark issue. It has to be a fuel issue. I do remember now that when i had my wife crank kit, no fuel was coming out of the injecters. We waited for about 20 minutes then it was fine. Im thinking my fuel pump is seizing up or something. Ill have to listen to see if the fuel pump is working next time my car acts up.

 

do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
right on the fuel rail there is a schrader valve you can attach to so you can check pressures if its nominal pressure, and the injectors are not jammed up
replace the icm thats usually the issue with those symptoms the maf sensor will only idle you high and send a ahole code with voltage irregularities,
the icm when hot can give problems if its never been replaced that die electric grease usually dries up and sends all that lovely engine heat to the module rendering it inoperable until it cools... kinda sounds like a icm to me but without the car here i cant tell start with the easiest overlooked stuff first its usually after youve practically replaced almost all of your stuff a magical little gnome says hey dude thanks for all the new parts but your monster is right under your nose you didnt look here...

much luck
Zaar

 

ALso, as Zaar said, it could be your fuel pump. There is a piece of rubber hose that connects your pump to the fuel line that disintegrates over time. Its a PITA, but replacing your fuel pump also ranks below replacing the MAF.
Just for a reference, EVERY Camaro ive ever bought, save one, has had that rubber piece of hose go to mush. You may think about just replacing the hose, but while youve got the tank down, just go ahead and do the pump too. Youll be money ahead.....

 

I do not have a fuel pressure gauge.

Where is the ICM located and how do i replace it? Is it underneath the rotor?

 

I do plan on replacing the fuel pump this weekend, though someone suggested just cutting out an access panel above where my gas tank is, has anyone done this before? Where do i need to cut if i wanted to do this?

 

Yes its under the rotor small flat module two screws at either end of it hold it in...
And there is a way to change the pump without having to drop your rear down and you can cut a
Hole in the rear trunk pit on the wall but you must not cut deep eye the area where the pump is usually right in the middle and make your box cut make sure not to fully remove it just peel it up like a can then you can swap it on out laddie...good luck and don't forget to use safety glasses...

 

hua thanks.

 

well it is an rs 305 which is tbi. it does not have a mass air sensor. get a timing light and hook it up as normal. then let it idle and point it at the injectors and check the spray. it should be a shower pattern. also remove the air cleaner lid and make sure the top tbi cover is not leaking down into the throttle body. also check the fuel pressure and see where it is at.

 

The spray is a shower pattern.

Ehem. Mistake #1, i let my brother spray what he though was carb cleaner, but was spray paint. i dont think its going to have any effect, just gotta clean my tbi now.

 

Step#1: Punch your brother in the neck.
Step#2: DONT cut an "access hole" in your floor. I have done this. Its not worth it, and its just as easy to do it the right way.
I wound up cutting an access hole, and then found out my whole tank was one big piece of rust, so I had to drop the tank anyway and replace it.

 

#1 bitch slap your brother . O.K. that done , ICM is inside the dizzy . remove cap & rotor , see the unit that has the 2 elect. leads one from the coil ? thats the ICM . simple/easy/cheap to change (don't forget the grease that needs to go underneath the module) . cutting a hole in the rear deck is not a bad thing , if you do it right . (there are many threads on the subject) many new cars have access panels for that reason . anyway change fuel filter also . good luck .

 

just for grins loosen the gas cap and then try it.

 

Well the ICM made a pretty dang good influence on how my car ran, i think the old one was burned out or something, i also notices no residue on the medal part of the ICM. So i figure heat got to it.

Anyway, noticeable differences: My car used to shutter a bit when acceleration from a stop, maybe a misfire? Well that is now gone, thanks to the new ICM i believe.

Also it sounds a little different, maybe because the misfire is now fixed.

I am still not sure if the whole issue with the car dieing after 30 minutes is resolved, i still think that issue is the fuel pump siezing up, either from it being old, or im not exactly sure, the problem also acts up when im typically at half of a tank, though i was at 3/4 and i ran to 1/4 since the new ICM so maybe that was the issue, no clue.

P.S. I am also getting TERRIBLE gas mileage, like 3/4 a tank and i have only driven 130 miles.

P.S.S. Im sure everyone already knows this so laugh all you want, dont try to plug on of the wires back on the distributor cap with the car running It felt like I had to go through tazer training again.

Good day and thanks all.