Yeah I saw an article on how to do that somewhere.. I'll have to find it. But then with the modded stock FPR I'd still have to buy Caprice injectors

 

If you empty and seal (with fiberglass for ex.) the stock FPR spring housing, can then tap the vacuum hose to it. Will work exactly the same as this one. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...rfpr-pics.html

Your stock #55/hr injectors will be ok if you have anough pressure, you'r planing to use the TPI fuel pump right?

 

I'm assuming that you mean the fuel pump for the 350 TPI (I don't know if it was the same for the 305), but I'm guessing that would be the cheapest solution, so yes. Are these good for north of 275 hp? I'd run through the calculations and figure it out myself but I'm a little short on time atm.

Hoping to work some deal magic within the next few days and score all my suspension components (Moog 5662 and 5665 springs, KYB GR-2 front struts and gas-a-just rear struts) for around $200-$250. I'm planning on lowering it about 1-1.5 in so I'll probably get an adjustable panhard bar as well.

 

Ahh this reminds me when I was younger and had a strict budget... Alot of money I wasted.

Anyways. Since you are replacing the valve springs, go ahead and replace the timing chain. Unless its a low mileage L03. As far as the converter, whats the specs on a s10 converter? 2100-2200?

If so then thats an ok converter. I forgot to ask but why are you doing all this? What are your goals? Keeping up with a stock high mileage L98?

TPI pumps are all the same if I recall.

 

Uum I have a "stock" high mileage L98 car and trust me it wouldn't take much to outrun it,lol. Damn thing is TIRED....

 

I'd be willing to bet that TPI pumps put out more. If I remember correctly, the stock fuel pump is only good up to about 185fwhp. And you are correct about the timing chain, I left that out.

I also just got a lead on a set of Ceramic coated Hooker Headers + y-pipe... for $100obo. If I get those I'll finish restoring my Hedmans and will sell them for a profit.

The S-10 Converter shifts around 2,650 RPM in our cars

And as for my goals:
1. Beat a '79 Z/28
2. Beat an '84 Porsche 944 (non turbo)
3. Run low 13's in the quarter

But what else do I have to spend my money on? I love powerlifting but that's an even bigger money pit(4000 calories per day in good wholesome food isn't cheap) and I'm going to college on at least a 75% scholarship. I've worked hard and love working on cars, so this is what I'm going to do.

At least I'm not throwing my money at a Civic

 

I have an EBL computer that I will not be using selling it for $200 + shipiing obo. Will also through in the TBI Adapter plate. PM me if you want it. Has never been hooked up.

 

It's gonna be pretty easy to beat a '79 Z28.

 

Oh yeah, I already know I have him beat. The jury's out on me though.. everybody thinks he's going to beat me.

+500lbs weight and 190 hp... yeah right.

The Porsche would be pretty tough to beat before the modifications, but I'll smoke him after I make them mods. Hell, I'll probably have the fastest car in my grade between my school (private) and the local high school.

BTW, all drag racing will be done at a NHRA Sanctioned track

 

Sad thing is your goals are easier with a Civic. neighbor has a 93 Hatchback and has spent close to 3k he says on a Ebay turbo kit and supporting mods. Lets just say he will give my 86 a good race. I have way more than just 3k into my 86, which sadly just makes me an idiot for not stopping and just taking out the LT1 and going LSX. Maybe with next years taxes,


Anyways, to meet your goals you will need to follow deep in roberts footsteps and if I recall his old 305 is far from stock.


@Robert

Dang really? My buddies 89 GTA with a L05 long block with a TPI top felt 10x stronger than my old 305 and my old 305 was far from stock.

 

Yeah man, she's tired as hell. 206k of a hell of a hard life before i got a hold of her. The previous owner didn't know diddly about cars. I found SO MANY rigged up things it was ridiculous. The worst I've found so far was duct taped vacuum lines!! Dude she's a work in progress for sure,lol. I'm going to post up some pics in a new thread in the "appearance" section tonight.

 

Annnnnnnd EBL Flash will be delivered this week!

I know building one of these cars (Especially with an L03) isn't the smartest or most economical thing to do but I love this thing and I've made out pretty well budget-wise so far. Can't ask for much more from a first car, can you?

As far as suspension goes I'm only going to take care of the rear springs and struts for now, the front can wait. I'm thinking Moog 5665's and either Lakewood 50/50's or KYB Gas-a-justs. After my body settles to where it should be I'll probably order the Competition Engineering subframes and rent a welder for a day to put them in.

 

Moog 5662 even settled gives a hardcore 4x4 look....




I have the heater hose mod on the rears as well. Decided to ditch them with Intrax 2' springs. I went with KYB AGX's and they are pretty darn good for the price. I still decided to swap them for Koni Yellows though.


Going EBL eh? You wont regret it. Its the smartest investment if you are really wanting to get some budget power out of the L03.

 

Dood I think itz time for some gnar rockkrawlin

...I forgot to add, *cut* Moog 5665's. I'll probably cut them 3/4 inch to start and then take off from there.

As soon as OS3Fleming offered me the setup I knew I'd be saving money, cause if I went with the chip+caprice injectors I'd end up spending just as much for performance below what I could have.
Now all I have to do is sell my programmer (for a loss of $5) and return the chip and adapter I got from Moates (yet another $5). That's a loss I can stomach.

If I can get all the parts together I could rent an engine hoist for a day ($30) and hone+clean the block, rebuild the pistons, and replace all the gaskets.
Edit: Just remembered how much piston rebuild kits cost. Scratch that. It runs well and burns no oil so I should be fine

 

Found an Edelbrock Performer intake for $40 obo near me. Should I jump on it or hold out for a Performer RPM for a little more?

 

And what about 305 Vortec heads? I have a chance to get a pair for $150 in very good condition. Good deal? Otherwise I'd just be porting my stock heads

Sorry for the double-post update, but as you all know, this stuff is time sensitive

 

I would hold out for the RPM honestly, if you get the vortecs then you're going to need a vortec specific intake.

 

Yeah I know I'd need to get a Vortec intake, but I could still pick one of those up for 75 or less. I guess it would be a pretty worthwhile mod though, since I'd probably swap the L30s on in a year or two anyway

With those I'm pretty sure this build could hit 300 at the wheels (yeah, I know new injectors or a 454 TBI unit would be required)

 

Edit: sum up, found that my front clip was from an '85 Z/28. See below

 

Just got off of the phone with the guy I bought it from. He wasn't covering anything up and was honest about it. He said that he knew his daughter got into an accident and it was just one of those things where the light turned green, she looked down, and then the hood ended up getting crinkled by someone else's car. The airbag was not deployed and not even the radiator was damaged. His brother put the new hood and front clip on, but he wasn't made aware of the front clip replacement.
Bottom line: nothing serious, no major chassis damage, anything that seems off past the nose is due to the usual unibody settling and quirks, and I didn't get screwed over.


On a more progressive note, I'm thinking about putting EBL Flash in the car as it sits to see what kind of gains I can reap by modifying the tune and timing. Has anyone else tried this?

 

TPI pump delievers 24 gal at 50 lbs/sqin fuel pressure. Should be good for >450 HP

 

Great, I did not know they had that kind of capacity. TPI pump it is then

 

http://westmd.craigslist.org/pts/2638172285.html

Bent valve but only $75- worth it or not?

 

I BELIEVE....my car will hit low 12's.

Just got the new issue of Hot Rod Magazine and lo and behold I have found a shimmering ray of hope. This guy has run an 11.69 in the quarter using a stock LS1 Camaro (Rated at 320 hp, 335 lb/ft) with a 4th Camaro SS.

Only mods have been:
S60 Strange rearend (busted a 10 bolt)
4.56 Gears
Mickey Thompson 26x7.5's out back
A/C and Heater delete
ABS brake delete (like any of us have those..)
bumper support delete
back seat delete
(total weight of 3100 lbs)
Speedglass rear hatch

 

Where I work when a sbc head comes in with a bent valve usually the guide it shot. Just a a thought might need alittle more then just a new valve.

 

That's what I was thinking, especially since the 906's have the hardened valve seating. It's like an hour and a half away from me so I'll wait for something else

 

Dont believe too hard. He has done alot besides having that stock LS1. Those gears with a M6 (I assume he does since its too short for a A4) and sticky tires makes a stock LS1 a deep 12 sec car with a good driver. Take away all that for a A4, 3.42, Regular tires, Regular driver and a L03 with Exhaust, LT1 Cam, Tune and its a mid 14 sec car.

Pass on those heads.

If only you lived near me. I still have my old 305 in the garage, I would gladly give it to you so you see what you will end up with. Then give you a ride in the 86.

 

Hahah maybe next year... I've always wanted to see a Cubs game at Wrigley Field

You are right about that, but I'll be fine as long as I can break into the mid to low 13's which can be done with a posi rear and 3.73's. Subframe connectors might even be good for a tenth.

 

I wouldn't make any goals to be honest. Just do what you can to do the 305 within your budget and take it to the track. Then decide if you want to go in deeper.

 

^good advice. I have taken heed.

What casting numbers should I be looking for on non-vortec heads? I figure that a set of H.O. or TPI heads will cost less and flow better (after a valve job and port) than a set of Vortecs

 

I would get LB9 heads.

 

5 minutes of searching and I've already located 3 sets for $50 or less... I think we've found a winner. I just wish it didn't cost so much to ship these damn things.
Time to call up the local junkyards and get their rates for a set of heads, because the last time I went creeping around my local one I saw a TPI camaro with the heads still attached

 

But now I wonder...

Couldn't the swirl ports be ported for more substantial gains than the 081's? I'm thinking that I could grind the swirl ramp down and "open" the intake port up for more flow while retaining some of the ramp. That way I'd still get some of the benefit of the swirl but would have a high end along with better exhaust flow (looked up the flow specs, 110cfm for the 081's vs 135cfm for the 187's). Or is this poor exhaust flow of the 081's mostly due to a shrouded exhaust valve?

My thoughts here- yours are welcome

 

You can port the swirlies to have some pretty good gains. You can't grind down much of the ramp due to there being a coolant port running through them if i recall correctly. The swirlies make a great "street" head for torque but not too much else.

 

I'll see if I can find anything on cutting the swirls- I think I read somewhere else that someone ground the swirls out of their heads. I'm thinking about it now because it occurred to me that I could probably pick up a set of swirlies for next to free.
Could it be that at RPMs over 4,000 swirl ports detonate too fast for the good of the engine? Maybe water-methanol injection would help here (Too expensive for me, but it's an idea). This might sound stupid but I thought I'd share this thought

 

Update: Got the EBL Flash in and working after some finagling with the cheap driver for the USB converter I got and working with EBL and Tunerpro. This weekend starts the datalogging and tuning!

 

First day of tuning with EBL Flash and man do I have a lot to learn. I averaged 16.5 mpg over two 7.5 mile drives.. yikes. Could be due to the fact that the gas has been in there since August, but I doubt it would make that big of a difference. Plus, I'm still tuning so we'll see where this goes.

I don't have anything pictureworthy done because lately I've been putting a lot of my time into finishing my Eagle Scout project. Right now it's about 90% finished and will be wrapped up this week!

 

Nice, I say skip on anything else and learn away. Im sure with some learning you can get some more power out of it before diving into a Cam/Head swap.

 

yeah EBL is pretty extensive. Ive been messing with it for months.

 

There is definitely quite a learning curve to EBL. I wish datalogs weren't too big to upload to the forums for review

 

yeah i dont have patience for stuff like it. I will keep messing with spark and fuel until the car runs good enough to not have spark knock. if it drives halfway good then im done. I get lost when i see all these #'s. and I hate computers. lol.

 

I feel you on the EBL thing haha. But 2 VE learns later and it's running better than ever though. No more "pulsing" at idle and acceleration is much smoother. I sure hope I start seeing better gas mileage soon. With the tank of gas I had in there since August I got 15.5 MPG... and because I didn't know that "empty" really meant "empty" I ended up running out of gas this weekend. Fortunately my grandfather was nearby and was able to bring some gas. If my MPG's don't get better with additional VE learns I'm going to have my injectors cleaned

Today I went crawling under the car (for lack of nothing better to do) to check the block number to make sure that it was a 305 and found what appears to be a buildup of oil around the number 7 cylinder/head and on the spark plug. What could this mean? Oil level is good and the oil itself isn't real bad.

 

hey ron are you getting rid of all the heating stuff. does your car have the aluminum line on the passenger side in the engine bay that the heater hoses hooked to.

 

Nah, sorry I'm not getting rid of that- not a fan of cold weather (no pun intended)

Edit: I'm going to pull a set of heads off an '85 next week though, so if you need that part PM me and I may be able to get that too

 

For the purposes of my build (350-370 fwhp, street/daily driven) I'm guessing that a Torsen Diff will do just fine- am I right? Right now I'm looking at one that was pulled from an '02 Z/28 with 58k miles on it

Edit: Bought it! I'm so psyched to have a limited slip diff. After reading some posts on here about guys running 11's on Zexel Torsens I was sold. Next step will probably be to find some 3.42 gears- It's got 3.23's on it right now.

 

I found this and now truly know that it is my destiny to build a ridiculous 305 street car.. my real name is Preston

 

No comparison, he has a large bore/short stroke, the LO3 has small bore/long stroke.

 

IIRC he had a standard 305 setup before he upgraded to 4" bore/short stroke combination.

And just thinking, with a set of '84-'86 LG4 pistons I could achieve a 9.8:1 compression ratio. As it stands now with the Vortec heads and .015" head gasket I'll be right at 9.0:1. I'll look into getting the heads milled; I don't think that costs too much at my local machine shop.

 

Here's another idea: since the Vortec already does a fair amount of turbulence creation and overall good job of keeping fuel in suspension, why not go with a single-plane intake manifold? My thinking is
a) I can probably get them cheaper than a dual-plane manifold and there's not as much variance between manufacturers
b) I'm not going to have much low-end toque loss over what I'd have over a dual plane manifold due to the aforementioned factors
c) Most of you recommend the Performer RPM, which is designed to operate at higher RPM's so I'd probably be fine anyway. Not to mention, I could use increased high RPM performance with this low-duration LT1 cam

 

I believe Fast355 used a 2 barrel single plane vortec Edel maniford and ran the TBI on it. I saw in summit catalog last I looked