Thought I'd make this thread just to log my progress and to encourage myself to take pictures of what I do, as well as to make one place to ask questions so I'm not making a million threads.

Today I took off the decaying under-hood insulation so maybe I can finally clean up the engine bay without that crap falling all over the place.

A few days ago I also took the air cleaner off to see if I needed a new filter- turns out the filter was a 9.25" interior diameter K&N- not too shabby. Dirty as hell though. I then started cutting up the stock air cleaner to make an open element on the cheap, but then I realized that half the time I'd put into making it could be spent working to buy a new one... which brings me to my next thing.
I went to the parts store and bought a 14"x3" Spectre air filter (didn't get a spacer ring)- Put it under the hood and it's hitting on some electrical thing by the distributor, and it looks like even if that were out of the way it would be hitting the throttle linkage.
Can this fit with a proper spacer, or should I take it back and try to find a 10" top and bottom to fit the K&N?

 

from what ive read in the ultimate TBI mods, the spacer ring will cause a restriction around the injectors. probably better to cut some sort of clearance if possible into the air filter baseplate. have you read the ultimate tbi mods yet? i dont know how well that stuff works, but it seems like it might be worth a shot.

 

Cutting wouldn't work, since the filter is right there on top of it haha. I've read the ultimate tbi stuff a few times but I'm doing it one thing at a time- it should work pretty well.

Edit: Nevermind, a little bit more searching gave me the answer. I'll just return it and finish cutting up my old air cleaner- Not like it's got to look pretty anyway

 

yeah I have heard of problems of hitting the coil

 

that is why i took my coil mounting bracket and cut it down some. then welded it back in place. i think i lowered it 1/4". now i have no problems with the air cleaner hitting it.

 

Well althought a simple task for you and me and others, some people cannot do basic fabrication

 

I have access to an angle grinder but it might take a while to get one of my friends with a welder to come over and put it back together, so I think I'll stick with hacking my stock air cleaner and using the K&N (pictures forthcoming). I should have that finished tomorrow after I buy some more dremel tool bits.

 

interesting. I went to Adv Auto, grabbed a Mr Gasket open element, dusted off the box, went to the counter and offered them $20

 

That's about what I would have spent had I gone with a smaller element, but I went with the bigger is better train of thought.... whoops. Looks pretty nice though

 

Dude you can make your own for less than 5 bucks and about 2 hours of your time. I made mine out of 2 lids using my spacer ring as a template. The air cleaners you get from vatozone are a drop base. For better installation a non drop base is ideal.

 

Actually, that's a pretty darn good idea. I might be able to get an extra lid from my neighbor's grandson. Cool story actually, his dad had the first thirdgen I remember laying eyes on (I was five), an '89 RS 305. I always thought that car was so cool, even though it was just sitting in her driveway in disrepair. Eventually it got fixed and now his son, a year or two older than myself, is driving and modding it. But I digress, my air cleaner should end up looking a lot like yours, only I'm going to paint it white and put an orange bowtie on it.

 

What vehicles would I be able to salvage some 3" exhaust piping from? Living in a more metropolitan area with plenty of junk yards, if you can name it, I can find it.

Btw, I've decided to say screw it as far as emissions go.

 

Try to find some 2000+ chevy trucks. They usually come with the 3 inch piping. It's almost like a cross between mardrel and crush bent piping so it should work just fine for you. I'm actually doing the exhaust for my 91 and you can easily do it for less than 200 bucks if you can piece it together bend by bend. For the catback all you need is a 3 foot piece of straight tubing with and 2 45 and 2 90 degree bends. Try ebay for mandrels kit that are sold. You can buy a kit right now with enough tubing to do 2 cars for 150 with shipping. Or if you can find a good exhaust shop see if they have mandrel bent piping for sale and do it that way. you'll come out with a better flowing exhaust for pretty little money if done right.

 

Thanks! I'll look for those when I go to the junkyard. If the headers I want come through I may actually be able to keep my exhaust build cost cost under $100.. cheapin' it FTW

 

buses usually have some huge exhaust pipe too. just an idea on the cheap.

 

That's what I was thinking at first but then I realized that I might lose some backpressure by doing that. A 3" Y-pipe to a 4" pipe with a Cherry Bomb Glasspack would look sick though.

Edit: I'm actually pretty unsure what's up with the whole backpressure thing- to my understanding it wouldn't be much of a problem as long as I tuned the engine properly.

Help me out if I'm missing anything here, because I really like the idea of a large single-pipe exhaust with a glasspack

 

it's not backpressure you want. It's keeping up the exhaust velocity is what's important. A 3 inch single will flow more than enough for what your 305 will ever need. Too large of an exhaust will make the motor sluggish and be a dog in the lower rpms.

 

Makes sense. I'm getting a set of Hedmans with 1 5/8" inlets and 3" collectors so I want to make sure I don't lose too much power on the low end. As for a glasspack I'm thinking 18"- bigger, smaller, or should I get a different exhaust?

Edit: At what point will I need to get a new chip, and is it possible to keep the costs down here?

Also, I'm planning on getting the 30 psi fuel pressure regulator when I install the exhaust

 

Yet another question:

Performer or Performer RPM manifold? I'm guessing the performer would be the better choice since its operating range is Idle-5,500 rpm because it's recommended that a 5,000 rpm governor be installed on the 700R4. Is this assumption correct?

Edit: Looking to do smog/AC delete soon. Should I pick up a manual for my car so I know what I'm doing, or are there guides for this around here?

 

Dude. Good progress so far. No pictures of your car though.

 

Go for the RPM all day every day. It's a great intake. I dig mine.

 

man Rob. I'm getting confused between your user name and ron's.

 

Gotta ask why when it comes to the performer RPM- the operating range doesn't seem very fitting for our cars.

And as per skelitor's request, here's a picture of my car:

More pictures forthcoming. I'll take some pictures before I tear into the engine and get the smog and A/C out (still unsure on how to do this, so advice is welcome)

 

I have many parts installed on my car that aren't very "fitting" but they work like a charm,lol. Get the intake man, you'll like it trust me.

 

Rob- will do once I get my car up to a power level that warrants the swap. Until then I'll keep the stock unit on and might port it for the hell of it.


Today my headers came in!
Got them from a guy on craigslist for $25. Shipping ended up costing almost as much as the headers themselves. They're Hedmans- 3" collectors. Should be 1 5/8" inlet, but I'm measuring 1 1/2" across the inside, but whatever, they'll still flow pretty damn well.

Right out of the box:





After some work with a wire brush





Still have to get into the hard-to-reach areas with some four-way (amazing gun cleaning spray) and some wire mesh, but most of the hard work is done. I'll probably spray these with white engine paint once I finish cleaning them up. The insides are clean as ever, so no worries there.

 

honestly I would have them bead blasted just for good measure. that why it will get all the crap out of the nooks and crannies.

 

Nah, the stuff I have will work fine. It's not like I have to get everything to show spec.
Should I invest in a set of new gaskets for everything?

So far I'm not doing too bad budget-wise
Headers= $47
Mobil 1 oil+ filter= $20
LT1 Cam= $62
Air Filter Cleaner= $10
Open Element= Free
Top853 Programmer= $48
Total: $187

Tonight I'll probably buy the Moates Adapter and EPROM, adding $40 to my bottom line. But hey, $88 to tune my car? IMO that's better than $350 EBL Flash any day (no offense to the creator of EBL Flash- there are definitely benefits that come with the system)

 

Not bad man. Your ahead of me as far as mods go.

 

Thanks man, and have gotten around to any more mods than the ones you told me about? And what's the logic behind the 180* themostat swap- haven't heard too much about that

And since I can't find anything on removing the A/C and Smog it looks like I'll have to buy a manual so I make sure I don't screw anything up.

 

Removing the smog and AC is easy, it really depends on how far you want to go. Get an AC delete pulley to get rid of the compressor and just remove the smog pump. You will need to get a new serp belt. Look for a 96.7 K 6 rib belt. The parts store should have one for about 30 bucks. I'll post a pic tonight with the belt routing when I get home from work.

P.S I'll have your cam out tomorrow,lol. work has been a pain in the ***.

 

You bought a cam from da frank? Nooice. I would do a cam swap on mine but its a pain, so I'll just do bolt ons, intake mani, exhaust, etc...

 

@frank, thanks for the heads up on the serp belt, but since it will need a new belt anyway I'm not going to bother with a delete pulley. I just didn't know if there would be any particular things to worry about.. such as all the damn vacuum lines running off the TBI unit, or the ECM settings. And that's fine haha, I'd just really like if they could get here before next Sunday- I'll have two whole days to mess with the car

@skelitor, I figure that since I'm going to port the heads I might as well swap out the cam and valvesprings. To my understanding it's not that hard, the radiator will just have to come out. Plus, you actually have a garage so don't complain lol. I wouldn't even worry about the intake until you get your engine making some respectable power though

 

man dude if you are going to go thru the time to remove the intake then why not do a cam at the same time. your going to be 60% there.

 

If you wanted a little more oompf from the stock intake I would just have the throttle bores machined to 50mm and do a full gasket matching of the ports. should do you just fine at this power level.

 

Yah. I'm still working my build plan. I change it the more I know. That's what I love about this site. I learn something every day.

 

Ron has a pretty good plan though. He's doing just fine so far. All that stuff for under $200 man? Sweet.

 

Yessir. I still have $2.55 left in my paypal account I'll make that a donation to Tunerpro

Looks like my passenger side rear spring is bad, but the front springs are good, so I'll be spending an additional $80 (with S&H) on some Moog replacement springs.
I kind of want to go with a full set of Eibach's but don't want to spend the money ($220+Ship)... but then I think maybe I should because at a later time I'll wish I'd done it in the first place.

 

Not gonna replace the springs to support the LT1 cam? Small insurance but if you are willing to risk it or if their low mileage then you are fine.

The Hedmans are good headers, buddy of mine is running them and they do ok for his application.

The LT1 Cam was a nice upgrade when I did it to my old 305. I did love my Torque Converter/Gear upgrade more though. Thats something most guys dont want to deal with though, converter upgrade that is.

 

Nah, they've probably been under the car for all of its 21 years. Time to go. I'm definitely doing the converter, gear upgrade though. The gear before the converter though, someone replaced the stock one with a 2,000 rpm-stall converter


And I've gradually become aware of the fact that while I am very good at doing things on the cheap, this car is going to become a rather large money pit over the next few years......

 

I prefer to reply to this over here, hope it's ok for you.

I ended up with around 24psi of FP, with basically the all the moods you have lised/posted, done to my old excellent condition low mileage LO3.

You could try Caprice Cop car injectors or "biggher" @ lower FP.
Or find a compatible ECM/computer from a wehicle that used VRFP.

Personally I think you may be better of with EBL
If you sell the programmer you bought for 48$, your 352$ away from EBL flash installed in to your ECM (400-48=352$), besides you still need chip and ALDL cable before you can even begin to tune, somewhere around 80$ ? and suddenly EBL cost only around 272$ (352-80=272$).

 

Wats the deal with this top853 programmer.Ive never heard of it.Any insight

 

To my knowledge, the caprice cop car injectors are only a few lb/hr more than our stock injectors (Edit: nevermind, that's 20 more lb/hr). I'm guessing the 454 TBI injectors would be my best option in this case (Edit: nevermind once again, apparently they're too big), if I were to stay with the EPROM setup, that is.
I also didn't know about the ALDL cable- the information in the DIY PROM forum is so messed up because it seems like almost everything that should be helpful is too old to be of any real help. With that in mind, you do make a compelling case to switch to EBL Flash.

Curse this automatic transmission. If I had a manual I'd have put a carb on already and melted down the TBI unit to make some faux ghetto bling.

Seriously though. For the cost of EBL Flash I could buy a carburetor, distributor, intake and gaskets and still have money left over. I'm just not too crazy about the whole lockup switch thing for when cruising over 45 (I know they say 35, but it's not like it actually makes a difference until you hit 45 and up)

Edit: I couldn't tell you much about the Top853 yet, other than that it supposedly programs pretty much any chip around, is made in China (keep away from small children), and is relatively cheap. It should be in the week after next



Edit III: (delete of edit 2) What it comes down to is that I have to choose between chip+injectors, EBL flash, and carb. I'm fairly sure that I can hit at least low 13's with the chip and injectors, which would be fine. Carb would be a lot easier to tune, but I'd need to wire my transmission for lockup, and it wouldn't help me break into the 12's that much. EBL flash would definitely help me get into the 12's, but I can't seem to justify spending the extra $250 on the system (that's a new set of springs, which I sorely need).
If I go with the injectors I can always add a little more fuel pressure to meet my goal, by modding the stock FPR.

 

Bottom line: Can I use 454 TBI fuel injectors, or will they be too big?
And I have the programmer, chip adapter and chip coming in. Do I need the ALDL cable or is that optional?

 

By the time you buy flow matched 454 tbi injectors, you could get the EBL.

You are missing a wery important point too, with your tuning equipment it is going to take you forewer to tune your upgrades. Be prepared to set up the chip around 100 times at least, for the little part list you have posted for now.

With the ALDL cable you can look at the little (slow) data the stock ECM provides, without cable, you can only go by nose, ears and feeling.

 

I crunched the numbers today (my mind doesn't function as well at night), and by your 24psi estimate the Caprice injectors should work great.

When it all comes down to it I'd much rather spend $210 on my chip, adapter, homemade ALDL cable, programmer and injectors and put up with the headache. I know I won't be getting the same performance gains as someone with EBL flash but I'd rather save the money and not spend over double that on an EBL Flash setup (high school senior here). Even so, it's still better than a carb'd setup.

 

I did not say or estimate, #61/hr injectors @ 24 psi for your set up.

I did end up with the #55/hr injectors (stock LO3 injectors) @ 24 psi, with a VRFPR of course (mandatory, already explained why), on a low mileage LO3 with full exhaust upgrade, DIY cold air intake, 3704 manifold with 46mm bores, turbocity's 46mm TB, lt1 cam (+ compcam walve springs), EBL flash, heated 02 sensor and 3.23 gears (gears do not really matter for the subject we are chatting about).

 

Oh god no, that would be overkill. I meant that by your estimate I'd need about 17psi with the Caprice injectors, 2psi over the limit of the stock fuel regulator (which can be adjusted to 15psi, if I'm not mistaken). I could probably get away with 65 lb/hr injectors.Thus, verifying your original estimate of 24 psi. And on a tangent, since when are the L03 injectors 55 lb/hr? I could have sworn they were around 45
The rest of what you said is pretty much what I have planned, with the exception of EBL Flash, which as I have already explained, I cannot afford at the moment. I've paid for my car, and I'm paying for the insurance and gas, along with all of the modifications- I'm not just given money, I work for this stuff. My only real options are EPROMs and Carb conversion.

BTW, what is the recommended valve spring weight for the LT1 Cam conversion?

 

Can look up injectors flow # here on TGO, for more details. The best source for TBI.

Some senior TBI owners, tuned their set up without EBL, prof it can be done. Chapeau.

Once your done with either way you choose, the price difference is little. The more you drive the car and the more you mod the car, the cheaper the EBL will become.

Don't remeber, you could look in the "LT1 cam digest" sticky for recommended valve springs.

 

Alright, so assuming I sell the stuff I've already bought and net a return of $80 (would sell whole set for $85/shipped), I would have to spend $270 on EBL Flash, and then I'd make my own ALDL cable.
The good thing is I know that I'll be sticking with my current engine and injection system, since my dad basically gave me the option to build a 350 the other day. I've decided to keep the 305 and 700R4.

Modified budget:
62- LT1 Cam
55- headers+paint
75- performer rpm intake
60- valvesprings
150- exhaust+glasspack
30- oil change
10- air filter cleaner
200- paint
350- ebl flash
100- vfpr
230- Eibach Springs
150- New shocks (have some older Monroe sensa-tracs on now)
150- subframe connectors
15- Corvette Servo
20- ATF
10- TV Valve Mod
200- chevy s-10 4.3L torque converter
50- pull-my own gears+positrac
200-paint job (Tractor paint)
30- welder rental (for exhaust)
55- gasket set
50- various lubricants+sealants
30- new dash (mine is cracked)

Total: approx $2000.. time to hit the street corners. I really wish I had gotten the crappy 2wd Dodge Dakota I almost bought 2 months before lol, then I wouldn't have poured money into it.
This is manageable, though. I have over $1000 guaranteed income over the next few months between birthday, Christmas, and tax returns. I could easily make the last few hundred dollars in the spring (landscaping's my gig), so let's burn some money!

 

You do not need the ALDL cable with EBL, it is a complete system, all you need is a laptop.

Could use your fabrication skills to modify the stock FPR in to a VRFPR and save some cash.