Ron_90's Build Thread
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
I just searched and found a remark he made about it. He said that he'd never use a dual plane on a TBI again after using that single plane- using that single plane I think he actually made slightly more low end torque than he did with the TPI in a dyno test.
Now here comes the heard part: finding a single plane Vortec intake for $100
Now here comes the heard part: finding a single plane Vortec intake for $100
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
I was going to drain the antifreeze (to remove the radiator so I can put stuff in) but my dad's saying the block will crack in this freezing weather if I do that. Is this true?
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
the block will not crack as long as there is antifreeze in the water left in the block. only when a block is full of straight water and it is put to many freezing times can it crack. usually the weakest freeze plug comes out first.
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
I just searched and found a remark he made about it. He said that he'd never use a dual plane on a TBI again after using that single plane- using that single plane I think he actually made slightly more low end torque than he did with the TPI in a dyno test.
Now here comes the heard part: finding a single plane Vortec intake for $100
Now here comes the heard part: finding a single plane Vortec intake for $100
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
What it looks like:
So that means the one I'm getting is unheated.. oh well. Shouldn't be too much of a problem since I'm running an open air cleaner and stock hood (no cowl). But I'm tuning with the EBL.. so I'm better off as far as tuning goes?? Not familiar with the setup described, and I'm running MAP
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Search up on running unheated intakes.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/407850-had-ae.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...ody-icing.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/407850-had-ae.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...ody-icing.html
Last edited by morgsie; Jan 20, 2012 at 08:02 PM.
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Thanks for the reading! I never would have found that myself- dimented has some great stuff there.
It appears I was wrong about the, though. It's not exhaust heated but it is water heated. However, since it does has the air gap between the plenum and the base it'll be a good idea to set up the IAT sensor.
It appears I was wrong about the, though. It's not exhaust heated but it is water heated. However, since it does has the air gap between the plenum and the base it'll be a good idea to set up the IAT sensor.
Last edited by Ron_90; Jan 20, 2012 at 08:40 PM.
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Just an update here: Now that I'm able to let senioritis set in (aced just about every course last semester) I've been working on removing stuff. So far i have the radiator, coolant and washer bottles out.
Started taking the A/C out today.. and on that note I think I'll get a Haynes manual. Ended up getting a bit of R12 (or R134, who knows.. based on some of the crap I've found in the engine bay I wouldn't doubt the previous owner would have been dumb enough) to the face because I didn't know exactly what I was doing. I just got out of the way and let the pressure release.. Yes, my car is outside.
After that I found this guide on TGO with decent instructions. Reposted for the viewing pleasure of noobs like myself.
Will update with pictures of my progress tomorrow- it's dark and rainy now so I'm not going back out
Started taking the A/C out today.. and on that note I think I'll get a Haynes manual. Ended up getting a bit of R12 (or R134, who knows.. based on some of the crap I've found in the engine bay I wouldn't doubt the previous owner would have been dumb enough) to the face because I didn't know exactly what I was doing. I just got out of the way and let the pressure release.. Yes, my car is outside.
After that I found this guide on TGO with decent instructions. Reposted for the viewing pleasure of noobs like myself.
- Disconnect battery
- Take the belt off
- Dyscharge the system (be careful this staff can do some serious health damage) I did this outside-not in the house garage- wore gloves and eye protection. There are two valves on the back of the compressor. BY pressing on them you willrelease all that stuff into the atmosphere. Just do not get caught.
- Unbolt and remove or cut all the hoses that are attached to the compressor, and the once going to the A/C heater box
- Remove the little black wire that is attached to the compressor ground it
- Pull the compressor out
- Remove the black round cylinder (attached to the frame)
- Remove the air lib cover and disconnect your MAF
- Unbolt the bolts holding the fan
- Pull the radiator up maybe 3 or 4 inches (be carefull)to remove it from the rubber pieces it is seating in to gaing access to the A/C rad (looks like a rad to me)
- Slide under the car and remove four screws holding that rad.
- Go back up and cut/remove two hoses at that rad (I cut mine)
- Carefully pull the A/C rad out. It took me few minutes, but be carefull not to cut any wires, or yourself.
- Install new pulley (need three 10mm bolts)
- Install the shorter belt (I removed my smog pump too so I am using KS 970 belt)
- Remove 3 bolts holding the A/C box at the firewall (all of them should be mounted on the top part of the box)
- Go inside your car, passanger side and remove the black cover (above your knees when you are seating)
- If you look carefully there should be three remaing screws that are holding the bottom part of that box-remove them
- Go back outside and carefully remove the A/C box out (be carefull not to break any wires, my box was sealed with some glue so I got pissed off and broke the box into few pieces
- Once removed clean the new non A/C box
- Install a new blower motor/fan
- Screw it in
- Connect the blower fan resistors
- Put the black cover back into the place
- Connect the battery
- Start the car and enjoy
- Take the belt off
- Dyscharge the system (be careful this staff can do some serious health damage) I did this outside-not in the house garage- wore gloves and eye protection. There are two valves on the back of the compressor. BY pressing on them you willrelease all that stuff into the atmosphere. Just do not get caught.
- Unbolt and remove or cut all the hoses that are attached to the compressor, and the once going to the A/C heater box
- Remove the little black wire that is attached to the compressor ground it
- Pull the compressor out
- Remove the black round cylinder (attached to the frame)
- Remove the air lib cover and disconnect your MAF
- Unbolt the bolts holding the fan
- Pull the radiator up maybe 3 or 4 inches (be carefull)to remove it from the rubber pieces it is seating in to gaing access to the A/C rad (looks like a rad to me)
- Slide under the car and remove four screws holding that rad.
- Go back up and cut/remove two hoses at that rad (I cut mine)
- Carefully pull the A/C rad out. It took me few minutes, but be carefull not to cut any wires, or yourself.
- Install new pulley (need three 10mm bolts)
- Install the shorter belt (I removed my smog pump too so I am using KS 970 belt)
- Remove 3 bolts holding the A/C box at the firewall (all of them should be mounted on the top part of the box)
- Go inside your car, passanger side and remove the black cover (above your knees when you are seating)
- If you look carefully there should be three remaing screws that are holding the bottom part of that box-remove them
- Go back outside and carefully remove the A/C box out (be carefull not to break any wires, my box was sealed with some glue so I got pissed off and broke the box into few pieces
- Once removed clean the new non A/C box
- Install a new blower motor/fan
- Screw it in
- Connect the blower fan resistors
- Put the black cover back into the place
- Connect the battery
- Start the car and enjoy
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From: Columbia, TN
Car: 1990 camaro rs
Engine: 5.0L 305 tbi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
When i deleted my a/c i first pushed in one of the schrader fill valves.and nuthin came out, so i carefully started to un hook one of the lines and still nuthing ever came out, i guess thats why it never worked lol. I despise a/c anyways
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Haha I do too- I greatly prefer fresh air to A/C, no matter how hot.
Got the A/C out today and made some progress on taking the exhaust off. Tomorrow I'll take the rest of the A/C out along with the accessory brackets, smog, heads, and maybe power steering.
The second picture is of the leaves I found by the radiator.. how does that even happen??
What am I supposed to do with all these wires that are now going to nowhere?
Got the A/C out today and made some progress on taking the exhaust off. Tomorrow I'll take the rest of the A/C out along with the accessory brackets, smog, heads, and maybe power steering.
The second picture is of the leaves I found by the radiator.. how does that even happen??
What am I supposed to do with all these wires that are now going to nowhere?
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Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Please don't cut them off. Do it the right way. Take the leads off the connector and hide it in the loom. Don't just cut away. If you decide to put it back on, just get ahold of the connectors and you can undo the delete. Gives you a good feeling knowing you did not half-*** it too.
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Please don't cut them off. Do it the right way. Take the leads off the connector and hide it in the loom. Don't just cut away. If you decide to put it back on, just get ahold of the connectors and you can undo the delete. Gives you a good feeling knowing you did not half-*** it too.
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
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Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
I'm porting the TBI now. Do I want a super polished finish on the bowl, or is it better to leave it a little rough?
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
I presume you are speaking of the intake. I believe the consenus is to allow a blasted type of finish. TBI uses wall wetting to help achieve atomization and help maintain fuel in/on surface should vac drop and fuel falls out of atomization it therefore can recover more quickly if fuel is present on walls of manifold. Not sure if TBI specific flows were done polished vs blasted finish. Certainly there were done on port and carb comparisons.
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
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Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
I presume you are speaking of the intake. I believe the consenus is to allow a blasted type of finish. TBI uses wall wetting to help achieve atomization and help maintain fuel in/on surface should vac drop and fuel falls out of atomization it therefore can recover more quickly if fuel is present on walls of manifold. Not sure if TBI specific flows were done polished vs blasted finish. Certainly there were done on port and carb comparisons.
I'm thinking that if the intake is supposed to be blasted then it certainly couldn't hurt to have a blasted finish on the TB
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Car: '90 RS
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Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Here are the pictures. It's better than it looks in the pictures- I only hit it with a sanding stone from my dremel set to smooth out the bit marks so the light and the metal do make it look unsightly. Just wondering if I should smooth it out more
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Car: '90 RS
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Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Haha I started using that on other forums early last year and decided to stick with it even though I'm down to a weak 165lbs @ 5'11".. I used to be 190 and able to deadlift over 350 without straps last May. My grip was the weak part so who knows what I could have pulled with straps
After my car's finished I'll go back to training full bore, and for D3 college lacrosse. 4k calories per day of quality food is not cheap lol
After my car's finished I'll go back to training full bore, and for D3 college lacrosse. 4k calories per day of quality food is not cheap lol
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Car: 1988 camaro "SS"/ 1991 305/T5
Engine: 383 LT1 in progress/LT1TBI 355 soon
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 3600 stall/ T5
Axle/Gears: Moser axles, 3.42 Eaton Posi
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
I've been into the fitness game for a while myself. I look like a small tank being 5'7" and 180lbs lol. Still working on it though. I was proud of myself yesterday. I was able to do bent over dumbbell rows using 110lb bells for 5 sets of 10.
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
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Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
I lifted the rear of a AE86 Toyota almost and inch off of the ground before. 
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Car: 1988 camaro "SS"/ 1991 305/T5
Engine: 383 LT1 in progress/LT1TBI 355 soon
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 3600 stall/ T5
Axle/Gears: Moser axles, 3.42 Eaton Posi
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: NYC / Jersey
Car: 1990 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Turbo 305 w/MS2
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Originally Posted by Ron_90
IIRC he had a standard 305 setup before he upgraded to 4" bore/short stroke combination.
And just thinking, with a set of '84-'86 LG4 pistons I could achieve a 9.8:1 compression ratio. As it stands now with the Vortec heads and .015" head gasket I'll be right at 9.0:1. I'll look into getting the heads milled; I don't think that costs too much at my local machine shop....
And just thinking, with a set of '84-'86 LG4 pistons I could achieve a 9.8:1 compression ratio. As it stands now with the Vortec heads and .015" head gasket I'll be right at 9.0:1. I'll look into getting the heads milled; I don't think that costs too much at my local machine shop....
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
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Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
That magazine article is wrong. Preston was in fact running a 90's 305 w/supercharger, much like my turbo 305, but there was no way he was running in the tens, no way, as he was only running 30-lb injectors during that time and weighing close to 3800 pounds @ 15 pounds of boost. That is impossible, especially with the supercharger because it doesn't have the same curve as a turbo, so don't believe everything you read. If you decide to go with a dual plane, trim down the divider about a half of an inch like I did, makes a tremendous difference. I would also open up the TBI adapter the same way as well. I did this to my Holley TBI intake, but I forget where I put the TBI adapter spacer, as that came out pretty sweet too...
Also, thanks for the info but I ended up getting a single plane intake, which should work much better than a dual plane. I'll just have to mod the IAT sensor so that it actually sits in the top of the manifold. I think dimented24x7 has a thread on how to do it. Damn thing just has to come in already... thank God I used paypal so I'm covered if it doesn't come through
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
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Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Had to take a bit of time off due to school stuff but I'm back at it. Right now I'm working on the heads- just got the old valve springs off and I'll be cleaning the heads up tomorrow.
Will I need to install screw-in studs? I'm thinking no, as it's street driven and only has an LT1 cam as of now
Edit (more info)
Valve Springs are Howards Cams 98212 Valve Springs- 115lbs Seat pressure, 340lbs Open pressure, 425lbs/in spring rate
Will I need to install screw-in studs? I'm thinking no, as it's street driven and only has an LT1 cam as of now
Edit (more info)
Valve Springs are Howards Cams 98212 Valve Springs- 115lbs Seat pressure, 340lbs Open pressure, 425lbs/in spring rate
Last edited by Ron_90; Mar 3, 2012 at 10:20 PM.
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
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From: West-Central
Car: 91 Trans am
Engine: built 360 TBI
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Axle/Gears: 10bolt/3.23
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
If you plan to upgrade in the future, it would be better/easier to convert to screw in rocker studs now while the heads are off the engine.
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
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Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Since I've been kind of sparse with the pictures here's a screenshot of the Desktop Dyno for my engine combination
Edit: I re-did the dyno with bone stock L30 headflow numbers, 1.84" valves (was 1.94" previously) and an open exhaust, as my exhaust system's flow is planned to flow exceptionally well. Here's hoping the numbers of the final product are close
Last edited by Ron_90; Mar 5, 2012 at 07:35 PM.
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Is this the right torque converter- the S10 converter that's supposed to stall at 2,600 rpm? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...ue%2BConverter
It's dirt cheap and comes with a 2 year warranty.. sounds almost too good to be true haha
It's dirt cheap and comes with a 2 year warranty.. sounds almost too good to be true haha
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From: Pennsylvania
Car: '91 Camaro RS
Engine: Carb'd 383
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Axle/Gears: 3.73 Posi
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
I can't say for sure if that's it or not (not my best area of knowledge) but you're deffinetly right with dirt cheap... I think I remember you saying you're a senior in high school, right? So am I and Im stocking up all the parts I need to build my carb'd 350, this is a sweet thread
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
I can't say for sure if that's it or not (not my best area of knowledge) but you're deffinetly right with dirt cheap... I think I remember you saying you're a senior in high school, right? So am I and Im stocking up all the parts I need to build my carb'd 350, this is a sweet thread
Do you have a build thread for yours?
And just an update in general: I'm going to solve the problem I presented in this thread ( https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...ml#post5216781 ) by re-drilling the adapter plate (so it's offset correctly) and the intake. Since I already bought the tapping set so I might as well use it.
If all goes as I hope, this weekend I'll be getting a roller with Konis and a bunch of other usable parts. After all the parts I need are harvested my brother and I will probably drop an L98 and 700R4 in... if we get it lol
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Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
No build thread yet, hopefully starts in the fall, might be next spring tho, it'll be after I get all the parts
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Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Is there any methodology to taking the starter out, or some kind of guide I should follow? The engine keeps turning over when I try to take the harmonic balancer out. I tried putting it in gear and that didn't work so now it looks like I'll have to go with the screwdriver in the flexplate trick
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From: Beautiful Coastal New Jersey
Car: 1990 Firebird
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: Auburn posi 3.73
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Is there any methodology to taking the starter out, or some kind of guide I should follow? The engine keeps turning over when I try to take the harmonic balancer out. I tried putting it in gear and that didn't work so now it looks like I'll have to go with the screwdriver in the flexplate trick
The engine should not be turning over if you are removing the harmonic damper. It is pressed straight onto the snout of the crankshaft and you need a puller to pull it straight off.
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Car: '90 RS
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Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
To get the starter out you just have to disconnect any wires connected to it, and then take off the two bolts holding it on to the block. It would be a good idea to disconnect the battery first.
The engine should not be turning over if you are removing the harmonic damper. It is pressed straight onto the snout of the crankshaft and you need a puller to pull it straight off.
The engine should not be turning over if you are removing the harmonic damper. It is pressed straight onto the snout of the crankshaft and you need a puller to pull it straight off.
Also picked up a new timing chain set for $30 (must have been sitting on the shelf for a while) so that'll be going on too
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From: Beautiful Coastal New Jersey
Car: 1990 Firebird
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Axle/Gears: Auburn posi 3.73
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Oh yea sometimes the pulley bolts are stubborn. I usually just leave the serpentine belt on and loosen the bolts a bit. Then take the belt off and get the pulley off.
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
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Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
On second thought... maybe I can thread my old pulley belt through my rubber pipe wrench. We'll see what happens tomorrow
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From: Dyer, In
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 Vortec
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Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
With college and college lacrosse coming up I'm pretty sure I'll be keeping my current engine combination the same for a few years. Otherwise I'd have no problem putting out $250 for screw in studs and roller rockers (another thing I'd like to do)
Since I've been kind of sparse with the pictures here's a screenshot of the Desktop Dyno for my engine combination
Edit: I re-did the dyno with bone stock L30 headflow numbers, 1.84" valves (was 1.94" previously) and an open exhaust, as my exhaust system's flow is planned to flow exceptionally well. Here's hoping the numbers of the final product are close
Since I've been kind of sparse with the pictures here's a screenshot of the Desktop Dyno for my engine combination
Edit: I re-did the dyno with bone stock L30 headflow numbers, 1.84" valves (was 1.94" previously) and an open exhaust, as my exhaust system's flow is planned to flow exceptionally well. Here's hoping the numbers of the final product are close
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
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Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Yeah, I've been kind of perplexed by that for a while. I just went by what dyno2003 said to use in the LT1 cam file, which looks to have way too much duration. I'll manually enter the cam specs later today to see what happens
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Car: '90 RS
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Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Forgot about that computer dyno test.. might get to that later.
Today has been a pain in the ***. I got the harmonic balancer off last night but needed to set the engine to TDC. Went to three stores today and none of them had a crankshaft socket- ended up borrowing a flywheel turning tool from a shop down the street.
Now I can't get the crankshaft gear off- pretty sure it's due to the crappy tool I'm renting from Advance Auto. So far all I've gotten is a disproportionate pull (only 2 of the 3 prongs) and metal shavings from both the crank and the tool. Now I need to locate another tool rental
Oh, and I managed to snap a Torx bit (made in the USA...) taking the cam retainer plate off and cracked a 9/16" socket (made in Taiwan, understandable) in 3 places yesterday.e
Everything's ready to get put together, my tools just keep letting me down!
Today has been a pain in the ***. I got the harmonic balancer off last night but needed to set the engine to TDC. Went to three stores today and none of them had a crankshaft socket- ended up borrowing a flywheel turning tool from a shop down the street.
Now I can't get the crankshaft gear off- pretty sure it's due to the crappy tool I'm renting from Advance Auto. So far all I've gotten is a disproportionate pull (only 2 of the 3 prongs) and metal shavings from both the crank and the tool. Now I need to locate another tool rental
Oh, and I managed to snap a Torx bit (made in the USA...) taking the cam retainer plate off and cracked a 9/16" socket (made in Taiwan, understandable) in 3 places yesterday.e
Everything's ready to get put together, my tools just keep letting me down!
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Updates, updates.
Got the cam in. Replaced the crappy torx screws on the cam retainer plate with hex-headed ones. The timing gear set didn't fit for some reason and the one that was on there isn't bad, so I'm just going to reuse the one that's on there
The heads are also on now.. I just need to locate my camera for those pics. If I have time tomorrow I'll get the O2 sensor bung welded into my header.
Edit: The intake assembly is pretty much ready to go on. I'm just confused about what to do with the VAFPR setup. There's no plug for manifold vacuum so should I try running it without VAFPR first or should I tap it (I could just go through my adapter plate) for a vacuum line?
Got the cam in. Replaced the crappy torx screws on the cam retainer plate with hex-headed ones. The timing gear set didn't fit for some reason and the one that was on there isn't bad, so I'm just going to reuse the one that's on there
The heads are also on now.. I just need to locate my camera for those pics. If I have time tomorrow I'll get the O2 sensor bung welded into my header.
Edit: The intake assembly is pretty much ready to go on. I'm just confused about what to do with the VAFPR setup. There's no plug for manifold vacuum so should I try running it without VAFPR first or should I tap it (I could just go through my adapter plate) for a vacuum line?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 462
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Bump: Should I tap the intake for manifold vacuum (for the VAFPR) or just try it as-is?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 462
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
I kind of want to try it without the VAFPR even though I'm going to be running about 40 PSI. I blocked off some of the IAC so I'm thinking there might be just enough vacuum to negate the increased fuel pressure
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Posts: 714
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From: Pennsylvania
Car: '91 Camaro RS
Engine: Carb'd 383
Transmission: Built T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Posi
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Yea I'd try it without, you can always tap the manifold if you decide to use it
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,199
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From: West-Central
Car: 91 Trans am
Engine: built 360 TBI
Transmission: built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 10bolt/3.23
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, Maryland
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
Re: Ron_90's Build Thread
Now I have a new problem. I forgot about the brake booster line- there's no place to plug it into the manifold. Is there another vacuum port I can plug this into? Would the EVAP port work? Not my first choice but I don't want to pull the intake off