I was going to suggest you run the VAFPR off the brake booster fitting. I tapped into R angle fitting at top and added a nipple. Do not use the MAP sensor line.

Isnt there a port at pass rear of the manifold for brake booster?

 

I wish. And of course it would be rather unwise to use the MAP sensor line. Guess I'll just plug it into the EVAP and see what happens. Or I could use the Thermac for the brake booster and the EVAP line for VRFPR. IIRC the EVAP port is slightly smaller than the thermac

Edit: Double-checked the Vacuum diagram and it looks like I'll be able to run the booster off the EGR, since that's long gone. Now I won't have to get rid of the EVAP system.. win!
Should I pick up a new charcoal filler for the canister while I'm doing all this stuff?

 

Pretty sure the vac port for EGR is ported vacuum. You'll want to be using unported (manifold) vacuum for a VAFPR. Don't think you can replace just the filter in the charcoal can. You have to replace the whole thing.

BTW, I would replace the timing chain. Just because it "looks good" doesn"t mean it is good. Either that or check how many degrees it takes to turn the dist.

 

The EGR vacuum port is identical to the Thermac vacuum port and both-of-them work for the VRFPR. I too have read that vacuum directly from the intake manifold works better, but having used both, I have experienced very little to no difference.

 

I know on my BB TBI with the throttle closed the EGR vac port was half above the butterfly and half below. I wonder if vac is present at that port with a closed throttle just the signal is weaker? I know with carbs you'd always want your vacuum advance on unported vacuum. But as I recall ported vacuum was well above the butterfly...

 

Those two little ports you described, should be for the EVAP purge system. Atleast thats what they are for on the all the other TBI TB's.
But it is right that the EVAP "vacuum" port would not work properly for the VRFPR and neither for the brake booster.

 

Now that you mention it, the timing was probably off before I tore into the car. The idle wasn't good and I was getting about 12 mpg

 

thomas, I will have to check my spare SB TBI vs my BB TBI and see if indeed the EGR is unported vac. It appears on the SB TBI it is. And it makes sense the EVAP line didn't work as it is a ported vacuum source. It would be great if EGR is manifold vacuum as I could use it for for my VAFPR.

 

I checked my BB TBI tonight and found some differences from the regular SB TBI. For starters my BB TBI only has 4 vac ports: MAP, PCV, EVAP and (as far as vac diagrams show) THERMOVAC. This port (on the SB TBI) goes straight below the butterfly: manifold vacuum. However on my BB TBI, this port goes ABOVE the butterfly. This tells me that it is indeed ported vacuum. So the solution for this (at least for me) is to drill out the boss on the other side the same as how it is on the SB TBI.

Sorry for hijacking Ron.

 

Another thing to watch for is the base gasket is different. any may be so for each class of TB. match it up. I would suggest Delco brand. there is some junk out there. The one that came with carb mani adapter was worse than junk.

 

I have no objections to threadjacking (within reason, of course), feel free to discuss what you need to.

Ronny- for the base gasket I made my own using a roll of Fel-Pro Karropak (for the adapter to mani and TBI to adapter)

 

Got a new phone, albeit the same crappy model. At least this phone's memory isn't shot and doesn't turn off every few minutes. This matters why? More photo updates.

Today I got the TV cable and throttle cable adjusted. Due to the offset of the TB I had to do a little ghetto engineering to make it work, but it worked and won't stretch. Maybe I'll fab something nicer looking in the future.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/7117472453/http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/7117472453/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/77679922@N07/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/6971394686/http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/6971394686/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/77679922@N07/, on Flickr

My car came equipped with cruise control but I don't feel like messing with it so that's going to the pile of all the OEM stuff I've saved.

Here's the engine as she sits. Just have to get the new timing chain in (Melling Double Roller), install the new fuel pump and put the valve covers on and I'll be ready to go. The valve covers will go on after the weather dries up, as I don't want to trap moisture in the heads.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/6971394598/http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/6971394598/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/77679922@N07/, on Flickr

Like an idiot, I didn't pre-fit the header before having the O2 sensor bung welded on. I had it welded into the "stock" location only to find it knocking on the frame. I bought a welder recently- a Lincoln Handy MIG- so I'm going to fix it myself.

Tonight I'm going to sand and spray paint some small problem areas on my brake booster lines and tomorrow I'll buy the hose for the VRFPR-EGR vacuum port and adapter for the booster-THERMAC vacuum port

 

I would NOT run the transmission with the TV cable hooked up like that. The position and throw of the TV cable is critical. I spent a few hours measuring and modifying my bracket.

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sum...o/700R4p1.html

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

 

I read about that last night right before you posted- I'll adjust it tonight. I didn't take pictures of my modification but the way I have it set up, but the bracket sits just like it did stock (in relationship to the TB). However, the forward offset of the TB places the linkage just slightly forwards of stock, hence my adjustment.
But yeah, I'll be adjusting the TV cable the right way soon

 

This weekend has been a huge cluster****. I put the injector pod and regulator on but had to cut some of the hood skeleton out. I'll see if my modded air cleaner works, but it probably won't. If that's the case I'll make my own- something like this.



Spent today wrestling with the fuel tank. I stopped at 11 and the damn thing still wasn't out- I started at 4:30. I should have jacked it up higher initially but
A. I didn't think it needed to be up so high
B. I hate jacking up the rear a lot. especially when the car is parked on a downhill incline

I'm tired of this crap. Tomorrow I'm going to cut the carpet and install a nice access hole. After the timing chain comes in and I install the shift kit/corvette servo I'll be ready to go. I'll be getting my license May 9th... finally. However, that is sadly 4 days after Prom.

Have a bunch of pics but I'm too tired to post them.

 

That would be a cool air cleaner

 

It sure would be. But since I'm rather short on time at the moment, I hope I don't have to.

Pics from yesterday:

 

Yet another solid update with pictures.

Wrangled the gas tank out today. Decided not to cut and dropped the rear as far as it would go. Then my dad came out and helped me get this SOB of a tank out. Some guidance, maneuvering and hammer/small log to the nozzle did wonders and we finally dropped it out. Before I put it back in I'm going to sawzall the hole to prevent future problems.

The Tank
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/7130271269/http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/7130271269/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/77679922@N07/, on Flickr

The pump (thanks again for the recommendation one92rs)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/7130271315/http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/7130271315/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/77679922@N07/, on Flickr

Somehow the clip on the pump broke- should have unclipped it before manhandling the unit to get the hose reattached. This is currently being glued back together

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/7130271397/http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/7130271397/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/77679922@N07/, on Flickr

Also removed the springs while I was under there. Everything will get put back together (plus new springs) tomorrow and Wednesday

 

Question: Should I get a single or double roller timing chain? I can pick up a single roller at the parts store but have to order the double roller. Just wondering whether the extra durability matters in a street-driven car making under 400hp

 

look at this carb hat and see if it measures right.

 

Just looking at it, I don't think it will. Looks sort of expensive too

What about this? $35 for the filter and top. Made for pit tuning but should work just fine for my application.
http://www.jegs.com/i/R2C-Performanc...ductId=1406815

 

you can always give it a try. as long as it has a filter it should be ok.

 

Might as well.

And to bring my previous question back up- should I order a double roller timing chain or buy a decent single timing chain set from a local parts store? I'm really pushing to get this on the road before Saturday

 

if it was me i would go after a double knowing i wasnt going to want to ear it down again. but i have seen many a people run a good single for years with no problems. guess it all depends on availability.

 

I'll go with single if the parts store doesn't have a double. I bought a gear puller so I'll have no problem replacing it again.

Got the fuel pump and tank in today. I'll edit pics in tomorrow but I really need to get some sleep tonight. Let's just say a 3 pound mallet was instrumental in the process.

Edit: Can't get into flickr from school- pictures attached

Lost a few ounces of fuel capacity but after making that dent the tank slid in right away

 

i only used a mallet to seperate my cat back from up front. but i did have my car way up in the air.

 

I hate cops with a burning passion. Thursday they came to the house (while my car had jackstands under the rear) and asked my dad about the car and its status. He told them what I was doing and they left.. then after driving around the block came by and filed my car as "abandoned".

Naturally, my dad took the sticker off. I had the day off Friday due to making honor roll so I took off to try to finish the car. I got a lot done, but it still isn't running. I took the car off the jackstands (had to drop the oil pan), released the parking brake and rolled it slightly down the street and cleaned out the interior. I then looked up the legal definition of an abandoned vehicle and after finding it, posted it in my window. In the words of N.W.A. "F**k tha police". Now at least if they send a tow truck out (this afternoon at 2 marks the 48hr deadline) I have some legal backing

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/6999462582/http://www.flickr.com/photos/77679922@N07/6999462582/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/77679922@N07/, on Flickr

 

Wow I can't believe they would do that, I guess the key there is that it's on public property, I'd try to get it somewhere safe

 

It's really unbelievable. Too many cops around here with too much time on their hands. I'd get it some other place but have no way to transport it and have no time to do so- in 2 hours I'll be gone for the rest of the weekend.
I had a shot at getting the thing running just in time for Prom too...

 

Theres no way to get it onto your property? Or even to a nearby shop where they'll let you sit it? You could call your own tow truck to get it moved

 

Nope, called the shops and they can't take it in. I'd rather take my chances leaving it at my house because everything's here and I can realistically have it finished next week.. as long as they don't tow it. So far it's been 2 hours past the 48 hour marker and nothing's happened. Let's hope that continues

 

Well good luck too ya, hope it's finished soon

 

Thanks

Well apparently the cops came around again today and I didn't get another write-up. Looks like my little notification got them off my case. After I get 2 last projects done for school I'll start on the car again. Once the engine's started up I'll install the shift kit+servo and diff on Friday (yet another day off)

 

Question: How much highway MPG's will I lose in switching from 2.73's to 3.23's? I ask because I just found out that ZZ Top is playing in Atlantic City (300 miles round trip) at the end of this month, and just a week later I'll be driving to Ocean City (yet another 300 miles round trip) for Senior Week.
Right now I'm thinking the diff+shift kit (transgo stage 3) is a project for the weekend I get back from these trips and that I should baby it for now. Opinions?

 

Making it manual with the transgo kit? If so, you can shift so you can get better mileage by keeping the rpm down

 

D'oh, forgot Stage 3 was full manual. Nah, I'm going automatic with the firmest shifts possible. Still thinking about my options. It's like my ego says "keep the highway gears" and my id says "shift kit and diff so you can shut all your friends up"

 

I'd go shift kit and diff, 3.23s aren't gonna make a huge different in mpg

 

LICENSED! Complete with a totally goon looking license picture

Now I just have to finish these 2 projects so I can work on the car again.

 

Everything's coming together now. All I need is to pick up the pulleys from a guy and I'll be able to start it up and drive it around- not fast though.

Due to some rather crappy luck I had with my gear puller earlier, the threads on the inside of my crank are rather messed up. I already used a hammer to get my harmonic balancer on. I know this is a no-no but I just wanted to get it over with. Besides, it can't be that bad for it since I had to use a hammer and pipe to get the crank gear on (even says so in the manual). Now I'm realizing that a bolt should go through the pulley to the crank. Should I re-tap the crank or will it be better to just leave alone and run it as is?

Personally, I'm thinking tap the hole. Even though the balancer is on tight I don't like the idea of there being nothing to hold it on

 

Sometimes just getting things over with costs you more time/money down the road. Obviously clean the threads up. If you can't torque it to the correct spec, then you will have to helicoil the threads. I also like to use blue locktite (removable strength) for extra secuirty.

 

Yes you should either tap the threads for the next size up bolt, or repair the threads as stated with a helicoil, timesert, whatever and use the stock size bolt. I would not even consider running the motor with no bolt on the damper like that.

 

Yup, I'll do it. But for now I'm stuck studying for my AP exams.. won't be able to really work on it until next weekend.
I've been trying to get a second car to drive around while I work on this one but my jackass dad has no money to pay back the money he "borrowed" from me a few years back (long story). So I'm stuck getting rides everywhere until I get this running, and then probably won't be able to do the trans/gear work for a while. I've never been more frustrated in my life lol

 

Standard or high flow water pump? 'm still running a single fan setup. Would a high-flow pump be better for my combo?

 

It's been a while since I've updated as I've been pretty busy with exams and finishing up papers. Since school ended I've been working on the car all the time and it's paid off. Hopefully I'll be able to get it to fire today. Everything's hooked up- the radiator and the new v-belt setup. Last night I couldn't start it because I had the starter wired wrong and had a disconnected ground. Found the disconnected grounds on the back of the driver's side of the engine. Now it looks like I'll have to torque the starter wires down, as the starter isn't cranking.
There's also some more good and bad news: the fuel pump is working, but I know this because fuel is leaking out of the back of the TBI where the fuel lines are connected- just as I was afraid would happen. I really hope I didn't strip the threads out when I tried to install the fuel lines. When I get home I'll see if I can get the fuel line to stop leaking

Pics will be coming- my buddy has a bunch he's going to send to me

 

My engine will not start. This is getting to be incredibly frustrating

1. Fuel system works well- injectors are spraying and new pump is pushing it out like it should
2. Ignition works- sparks are jumping the gap
3. I TDC'd the engine and set the distributor.. twice now
4. I set the valve lash properly, then tightened it again after finding some to be at zero preload tonight
5. Disconnected ETS cable after it would not start
6. Getting plenty of oil pressure when it's cranking
7. Tried rotating distributor slightly while cranking- no luck

Enumerated for ease of reading. Any ideas? I tried starting it most of the time with the program for my old engine configuration, which was quite messed up (getting 12 mpg). I flashed the factory program to it and it seemed like it MIGHT have wanted to start some more. Could just be me though. I'm going through the BIN right now to make sure I didn't miss anything I should have programmed beforehand

 

Bit of an update: She's been running for over a month now, and I just got back from a 420 mile trip without a problem. Still have to install the shift kit and gears, but I've been working a lot and have been having too much fun driving her around to have her out of commission for a weekend.

Taken at my Aunt's farm:

Edit: thanks to everybody who helped along the way- I'd have had a hell of a time without the community on here

 

Happy new year! Since I've been home from college I've started re-focusing on the car (hence the update).The 3.23 gears I picked up were never installed, but today I just picked up a 3 Channel 4th gen rear with 3.42's. Pics will follow as I install. Hopefully won't be too much of a problem.

Finally bought a fuel pressure test kit so I can get my FP and EBL dialed in the right way- it's an Actron; goes up to 60 PSI- perfect for my uses.