Heres cam specs,

Basic Operating RPM Range: Idle-5,500 RPM
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204 int./214 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 262
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 272
Advertised Duration: 262 int./272 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.420 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.442 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.420 int./0.442 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112
Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.

So, if a guy was to put this into an otherwise stock tbi 350 with a 7747 computer, could he, get away without tuning the computer?

 

I think you'd be fine. of course tuning it woudl yield better results, but it'll run fine IMO

 

I keep hearing that it should be good. I have been battling a poor idle problem ever sense I stuck this cam in. Problem is I have low vacuum. I checked every which way for vacuum leaks and find none so i assumed it was too big of a cam. Now, I have heard over and over that even on a stock tune the cam should run fine. I have been tuning the crap out of this thing and can still only muster up a, not too bad, idle. Starting to think more and more that the cam is retarded and needs to be advanced. Funny thing is tho that it runs like stock off idle... So who knows. Pretty much down to swapping in a used running motor and forgetting about this one.

 

Did you degree the cam when you installed it?

If not, you might want to do it now, so you know the cam is synched to the crankshaft and the valve timing is what it's supposed to be.

 

How do u degree a cam.And wat kind of tools r needed?

 

Would it kill you to actually spell words out? You saved seven keypunches. Your day must now be pretty slack.


http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...ord=Cam+degree
Kits available from $80 to $300. Basically, it's a degree wheel and a dial indicator; the dial indicator measures lifter movement and the degree wheel measures crankshaft movement.

When the cam, crank, and timing set is installed, and lifters placed on #1 intake and exhaust lobes, the camshaft lift measurements are compared to the crankshaft position to assure that the camshaft is properly positioned relative to the crank.

Adjustments can be made with offset keyways, offset keys, or offset bushings.

 

No i didnt. I suspect that to be my problem. I have been told that 4* of cam timing can be worth 5" of vacuum and 20 psi of compression. And thats the other thing about this motor is that its always had 135ish psi. From when it had 1000 miles to now that it has 10k miles on it. So, low vacuum+low compression= a retarded cam? At any rate, i found a friend of a friend that has a degree wheel for me to borrow and i have gone over how to do it several times. The truck is not a daily driver so its no big deal to do it. Just gotta do it!

 

Dangit! I had another question, About the dial indicator placement, Can i just put it on the point on the rocker where the pushrod is, being as the intake is on and the motor is in thre truck?

 

Yes, but it has to be ABSOLUTELY aligned with the pushrod.

 

Cool thanks man! I'll do my best!

 

Got a hold of a degree wheel! I'll dial it in and get back to you.

 

[quote=Schurkey;5067989]Would it kill you to actually spell words out? You saved seven keypunches. Your day must now be pretty slack.

yea it would.That has nothin to do wit wat I asked.My day is slack but u r countin how many key punches I saved??KILL YOURSELF.Find some bizz nd stayn outta mine .Thanks

 

Very nice well thought out reply. Do me a favor and leave that type of stuff out of my thread if you would be so kind please.

 

No disrespect to the o.p.I asked a ? to learn something that i didnt know not to be badgered on how many key punches i saved.I am not a child nd i wont be talked to like one.men respect men nd if someone cant respect me than i wont respect them.this thread was about a particular cam thats it.i wont be attacked like it really bothered anyone how many key punches i save.with that bein said thanks

 

FYI to those interested. I seem to have gotten either a bad cam or bad timing set cause after i degreed the cam i was about 10 degrees off! Turns out i have been running 10* retarded! Remember me saying that the motor only had about 135psi compression? Now its up to 150-155! Interested to see how it runs now!

 

how does it run? i have put this cam in several 305 and 350 tbi's with nice results. ran like stock but more power.

 

It ran ok for the most part. Felt like it was down on power and the big problem was that it surged at idle. Long story short, i found that somehow or another the cam was installed 10* retarded. I advanced it and now i seem to have picked up a miss.

 

Some guys pay extra to pick up a miss, and when the date's over...the money is gone.

When you advanced the cam, did you verify proper initial ignition timing?

What is the cranking compression? Any chance you've increased the cylinder pressure enough to have some detonation, and the knock sensor is now unhappy?

 

Yes i reset the timing to 0*-2* with the timing wire unhooked.

 

start simple. check for bad plug\wires cap and rotor. then move to compression.

flat tappets have been notorious for scrubbing a lobe apon break in with these low zinc oils. lets hope that's not the case.

there's also the possibility of a rocker nut backing off-- had that happen more than once. but you will hear a lifter tick if that's the case.

 

If someone walked up to you slurring and mispronouncing everything and speaking as if he were uneducated, would you not immediately categorize him as therefore unintelligent or ignorant?

If you speak as if you're unintelligent, expect to be treated as if you are. If you type like you're unintelligent, then the same thing goes.

Regardless that cam should run just fine. It's pretty small. I'd search again for vacuum leaks. Could even be a leak at the intake manifold.