goliath88

hey guys,

basically need someone to tell me what colors each wire pinout is. A, B C, D, and E. rookie mistake not writing down the colors before cutting them . so any help id appreciate.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

E=orange 12v fused power
C=dark green/white ecm driver
B=blk/whit ground
A=tan/whit ops

goliath88

thanks Tuned, but i got a 5 wire. IM guessing that the one not mentioned is D.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

D= red, and can be hooked to pin g of the aldl or even have a pigtail to uses as a test for the relay.

goliath88

Thanks man, have to replace my harness, it was causing my car to not start. i took it apart and let me just say, naaaaaaaaaaaaaassssstyyyyyy! so after cutting them, the wire coating slipped off of 3 of them. new harness on its way just wanted to verify which you helped with. Thanks again!

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

If smoke comes out I got them wrong. Jk

goliath88

lmao its alll good bud! smoke is sometimes a sign of some sort of progress lmao!

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I'm not sure if that's why they call colorado the mile high city now, lol

goliath88

dammit, no smoke. no nothing. i hear the relay click but the pump isnt turning on now. checked the fuse and its fine. i replaced that pump 11 months ago (3000 miles at most) . any ideas of what i should do? i know next i gotta check the connector for the fuel tank, but is there anything else i should look for?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Any power on the tan/wht for the 2 second prime or while cranking ?

goliath88

Sup Tuned,
I got power outta that tan and white wire while I'm cranking

Can u confirm for me that D is the red wire and C is green/white?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

From the relay and ops the tan/wht goes through c100 pin g4 down the drivers side interior of the body and out the body plug bye the tank.

goliath88

On the diagram u sent, it shows D at the end, my harness(new) has E at the end.. could this mean they're switched up by mistake?

I know, ton of rookie questions but its the only way I will learn

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

It should show the schematic on top and PIN letters on the bottom.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Ad of course the picture I chose the letters don't jive with the schematic but you get the picture.

goliath88

mine looks nothing like that. ima upload a pic of it now. hopefully you can tell me if its correct. my pinout goes a,b,c,d,e. so in the pic thats how the harness is. idk if its correct to the Relay, thats what i hope you can confirm for me.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

You must have the flatter non weather proof one acdelco 212-305

goliath88

so this is my relay, and i took a pic of the wires connected . from left to right is e,d,c,b,a..

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

E and d are swapped in the schematic I found and I'm not sure why. You got it hooked up right . If you check the tan/wht when you turn the key the ecm wire will control the relay and you will have power for 2 seconds.

goliath88

uberconfused. idk how to read relays

goliath88

ok, so i did what you said, and yea theres power. so i guess the next step is to check the connection going to the tank?

which two do i jump so i can hear if the fuel pump runs?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Super easy, see the coil ? The coil is your low current it needs a hot and ground and doesn't matter witch side is witch. When the coil is energized with either the ground or the hot side it creates a magnetic field allowing the pole to switch so the high current can go to the load.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

When you cranked you got power out the tan/wht this could have been because the ops was sending power not the relay. If you unplug the ops and crank it you should have power on the tan/wht if the relay is working correctly. Just to feed power directly back to the pump if you pull the relay and jump e to a the pump should run.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I know its a real pita to check the power back at the tank might be easier to pull the rear seat. This issue could be a ground issue for the pump.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Another way to see if the relay is Hooked up correctly is feed power to the g pin under your dash the aldl. You will not need to have the key on. You should hear the pump run and would have power on the tan/wht wire.

goliath88

whats ops?

to get power to "G" i jump it from "A"?

yeah ima check that ground hopefully its the case. man i appreciate all your help buddy

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Ops is oil pressure switch, if you put power to g under your dash to the aldl plug letter g or jumper the relay a to e

goliath88

sheeeeeit.. pita is an understatement. when i jumped a to e i got no pump. so i should also check the oil pressure switch? what side of the motor is that on

goliath88

btw i just checked the 3 wires going to the pump from under the seat. at crank i got power to tan/white, then the pink wire is showing a bit of power. it wont turn my led light completely on. i couldnt check ground yet cuz i dont wanna disassemble the driver side right now until tomorrow if i have to.

i checked the car for codes just in case and got nothing back. 12 allll day.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

the pink wire goes to your fuel level sender. sounds like you need to pop out the rear seat but I think your loss of power or ground maybe back at the tank ;(

goliath88

oh no.
i checked the oil pressure and my car is marking it while im cranking. so theres the sensor near the rear of the manifold, (drivers side, looks like a bell) and theres the one next to the oil filter.

can either of these two cause this problem? id much rather check these before dropping the tank. dont really have the time for that. already did that once, and was no fun.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I think yours is bye the oil filter and has 3 wires. if your getting power in the car on the tan/wht check the ground wire.

goliath88

nevermind. i just read an old post that says the oil pressure switch would kick in if the fuel pump relay wouldnt work. so hopefully its the connector to the tank and not inside the tank.

goliath88

ima need to get a multimeter again i guess. tomorrow ima fix this puppy no matter what. again man thanks for all the help. keep you posted on what happens.

goliath88

heres something i forgot to mention, when i would turn the key to feel the click on the relay, it would click every now and then. for example, id turn the key 3 times and it would click, but on the 4th it wouldnt click at all. isnt it always suppose to click?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

If you cycled the key to fast than no it wouldn't click. The ecm controls the relay when you first turn the key on for 2 seconds. It has a timer I think of maybe 5 seconds so if you turn the key off real quick and back on it will not click the relay.

goliath88

i got underneith him and set the multimeter to ohms to try to get ground. got 12v from the battery by using some amp wire, so i used the red terminal (set in the ohm spot) and the black wire set to the ground cable and got this OL reading.. i must be doing this wrong. i can hear inside the tank when i move the wire to the tank around as if its banging into the tank. i have no idea wth that can be . sounds like ima have to drop the tank. hopefully, i dont have to buy another pump.

can you tell me if i used the multimeter correctly, if not how do i find out if i have ground using it?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Ohms is a measure of resistance. From the black wire to ground. Out of limit means there is continuity but the scale you put it on the reading is out of the limits on that scale. The hot wire you will have power if you hooked that to the g terminal of your aldl and the other side to the positive of the battery. Check with the volt meter on the 12v dc setting between the Black and Tan/wht. You will have real real close to battery voltage. If you do I'm sorry man the tank needs to be dropped.

goliath88

do i have to have the ignition on to test the tan to black wire in the rear?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

No the ignition switch does not need to be on just battery power to the g on the aldl and it will send power pace to the tan/whit wire.

goliath88

done. my biggest fear again. hate dropping that tank. almost exactly one year to the day since. ima have to have a tank-dropping party. tendonitis has me hating life. thanks again Tuned.

goliath88

i did it while trying to crank, idk how to get power to G, unless its by running a power cable from the battery to the G, but while trying to crank it reached the 12.xx volts for a few seconds before it dropped.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Yeh you would have to put a wire on the battery and run it to g, that sucks but you have alot to be thankful for at least you can lay on the ground. I spend most of my time in bed. I was rear ended while at work almost 3 years ago. It's take alot away from a gear head to lay him up.

goliath88

damn bud im real sorry to hear that. is there any coming back from your injury?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I don't think so I see a pain management specialist the first prt of next month. I have had 3 surgeries with minimal success. I just turned 37 and feel like a real old man. Just be thankfull for all you have and what you can do there can allways be a life changing event any second .

goliath88

amen to that. i hope all prevails for you bud, keep your faith going. ima drop this tank tomorrow so keep you posted.

Schurkey

Do I understand this correctly? The wires to your fuel pump relay burned up?

First Guess: Shorted/grounded wire(s) for fuel pump circuit.

Second Guess: Shorted/grounded fuel pump windings.

You better figure out WHY the wires were damaged, or the same thing may happen again.

Be aware that many GM vehicles with electric fuel pumps have a known problem with the wire harness between the fuel pump hanger and the pump itself, some pumps come with a wiring harness repair kit; other harness repair kits have to be purchased separately.

goliath88

Sup schurkey,
it didn't burn up. I had to replace the fuel pump harness because at the time it seemed to be interfering with the relay. So 2hen I cut the harness off, I forgot the order they do in. That's what Tuned has been helping me with. Now I tried jumping the relay harness, also tried jumping the "g" connector, and still got a dead pump. So tomorrow I will apply 12v straight from the battery and a ground cable to. Harness from the tank, to see if I can get the pump to turn on. If it doesn't, I know without a doubt my pump died or like u mentioned the wire inside the tank fried. Appreciate your advise also bud. Thanks for the info.