I've been battling a code 32 for a few months now. No matter what I do I keep getting an intermittent code 32 after about ten mins of driving. I replaced the egr valve and solenoid. No vacuume leaks anywhere. I'm stumped. I cleaned out the port on the intake. What else can I do???! The check engine light is killing me. One thing I did do was advance my timing from 0-4 degrees but it didn't start at the same time and I'm sure that wouldn't effect it anyway?? Help please. I also hear like a chirp that comes and goes every few seconds during cold start and the engine stumbles when it idles up from being cold. I live in jersey and it's winter. Help would be great. Thank you!!

 

have u unplugged the egr valve and plugged off the line to see what it does?

 

No I haven't. Everything is new though. And actually I just replaced the map sensor for the hell of it. Still nothing

 

Could a clogged cat cause a code?

 

I plugged it with a screw and I still get a light

 

Have you checked the connector, have you checked the wiring to the egr valve, make sure there isn't a wire that has broke in half. if all else fails go get a service manual (not being a jerk) and follow the flow chart for the code 32.

 

I haven't checked for a break in the wire yet. It just sucks. Do you know off hand what voltage I should be getting from the connector terminals?

 

I think its 12 v but do not quote me on this

 

Ok thank you. I'm gonna assume 12v from the red wire? The other is ground right?

 

And I'm only gonna get the 12 v when the ECM commands the solenoid on? Or will I get 12 with the engine at idle?

 

^^^ Winner.

 

@schurkey. I understand but I don't have a manual ATM. I'm just trying to do what I can to get my car running decent again. I went to local Autoparts stores and they don't have any. So I ordered one from sbay

 

yes, I believe you will only have a 12v reference when the computer tells the egr vale to open. I believe the ground is there all the time

 

according to the wiring it is a pink and black for one wire and grey for the other. the pink and black wire is ignition positive all the time. the grey wire is negative from the ecm.
the brake switch
air diverter valve
egr valve
canister purge
air select valve all share the same power wire.

 

Ok cool, so if I'm getting power from all if the other components in the same circuit then that should be fine right? So I need to check the ground from the ECM (gray wire) I can just hook a test light from the positive battery cable and probe the gray wire right?? Or should I switch the two? Thanks again for the help. I feel bad. I'm just trying to get more than 150 miles out of a full tank of gas!

 

well you would have to see if it is coming in to effect when starting yes. with a test light put the clamp end on hot and probe the ground. if it does not then you would have to find a safe way to check it while driving.

 

I understand

 

Not sure how strict emissions are in NJ, but worst case scenario you could block off the EGR and delete it via prom.

 

I thought of that but I'll still feel more successful if I fix the problem ya know? I want to try to keep everything original. I mean honestly id take the bulb out of the cluster for the check engine light before I deleted the egr. But then again I'll still get my **** gas mileage -.- I'm stumped

 

Checking in to see if you found a solution, my 90 IROC 350 is giving me the same ongoing code but only during hwy driving, back roads don't produce the code.

 

Nope. No solution

 

UPDATE!! Looked hard for vacuum leaks but didn't find any. After crawling under the car, I found the number 8 spark plug wire was burned at the 90 boot. Although still providing spark, it was probably failing at hwy engine demand. Replaced it and ran a few hwy tests and my CEL indicator isn't coming on any more.

Hope this helps

 

Wow ok. Well did you feel any kind of missfire at all?

 

During a cold start I get a missfire when the engine idles up but it has all new plugs, new wires, cap, rotor and ignition module

 

is that the only time you get a misfire?? does it go away?? put it in gear and load the engine up while on the brake and see if it comes back.

 

That's the only time. It feels like a stumbling but in a way it doesn't. It's weird. And I will try that to see!

 

Had a similar issue on mine. Distributor magnets were shot. New dizzy, problem solved

 

I checked the magnets though. They seem fine. Should I throw a dizzy in anyways to see?

 

I tried power braking the engine. It sounds fine. But the more I think of it, I'm always hearing a "crackling" noise coming from the engine at random times. Not a valve tap, not a knock. I have my timing advanced 4 degrees and I run super so it's not ping? I keep throwing so many parts on I hate to throw a 100 dollar distributer in if I don't have to

 

put the timing back to 0. try it again. turn the cap over and look inside at the cap. see if there are some trails. that would cause it to misfire.

 

The cap, rotor, ignition coil and ignition module are brand new as of like 3 months ago. Could timing realy throw everything off though? Maybe the egr command?

 

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...BI-EGR-code-32

 

So basically it's saying that most exhaust mods can throw a code?

 

not everyones will throw a code. mine did. even though it was brand new. I just had the flag tuned off so it wouldn't throw a test light on. I suppose it will still throw a code for a big issue.

 

Huh? Flag??? "test light"???

 

the ecm will test the egr system. you can turn the flag off for the test. which will keep the cel from coming on for a failed test. but should still turn on the cel for a big problem.

 

After a good hwy run, yes, some rough idling. I'm only guessing but it seems there was not enough exhaust being re-intoduced to the intake (due to failing plug fire) and the ECM was triggering the code 32.

 

Ok, well. Today I set my timing back to zero degrees and the car doesn't do that stumbling when it does it's cold idle-up. In fact the car runs a lot smoother. It lacks power but it runs a lot smoother and the crackling noise went away. I only had it at four degrees though?? Some guys set it to six degrees? Every engine is different I guess?? Or maybe I am not setting it right?? The big notch closest to the drivers side is zero. Correct? And the little notches going from right - left are two degree increments?