Conwilso

I have a 91 Camaro RS 305 TBI with only 28,000 miles on it. The car has been sitting for about 5 months with the occasional start but not driving anywhere. I went to go for a drive today and the car would crank but not start. I can hear the fuel pump prime and the relay click when the key is turned to the on position and when I pulled off the fuel line to the injectors there was fuel coming out while the pump was priming. The injectors just won't spray. I checked the connectors to the injectors with a noid light and both are pulsing while trying to crank it. Engine will start using starting fluid or gas poured directly into the TB, but dies once it is burned off. Got it to run poorly with starting fluid and almost flooring the accelerator, but heard what sounded like air being sucked in somewhere. (could just be because the air cleaner cover was off). Now I'm getting the #53 check engine code, but the security light only comes on for a couple seconds when key is turned to run, then goes off. And engine still turns over. Just won't start. Sorry for the long post, but I'm pulling my hair out with this thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Since a noid lights blinks during cranking, I'd say that the injectors are stuck shut. Tap on them while cranking to see if they free up. Can also jump 12 volts across the injectors, but only for a short period of time.

Basically, momentarily jumper the power at/onto the injector terminals. Any longer can damage them.

RBob.

Conwilso

I will try it. Anything's worth a shot. I did pull the injectors and tried to clean them with parts cleaner in case they were all varnished up. I replaced the little filter screens on both and used a 9v battery to try and open them up. Would I get a 53 code from stuck injectors?

Schurkey

Who supplies the filter screens? I've never seen them for sale.



I replaced the throttle body on my K1500 with a junkyard unit. When I started the truck, it ran like crap. One injector didn't spray, so only four cylinders were running.

As I was forming a plan to fix this--what to take apart, what to clean, etc., the second injector started spraying on it's own. Not so varnished-up as to be permanently crippled, I guess. I dropped a bottle of my favorite fuel-system cleaner (Chevron Techron) in the tank, and it's been working fine for thousands of miles since. I do buy Top Tier fuel whenever possible.

Conwilso

The replacement filter screens came in a throttle body rebuild kit made by GP Sorensen. I just picked it up from the closest AutoZone because I needed new o rings and gaskets after taking out the injectors.

So I tried tapping on them while cranking. Nothing. They do drip fuel while cranking, regardless of tapping on them, but they just aren't spraying fuel.

Conwilso

I just tried to jump the injectors. Already had a 9v battery rigged up so I just used that. I can hear the injectors clicking and fuel drops out of them, still doesn't spray when cranking.

​​Could this be a fuel pressure issue? I haven't tested the fuel pressure (not really even sure how to on this car) but if the injectors are clicking, the connectors are getting 12v and pulsing, and the fuel is slowly dripping while the engine turns over, it's got to be either pressure related or the injectors are still clogged right?

I still don't understand why I have a 53 SES code.
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Conwilso

I just tried jumping the injectors and could hear them clicking as if they were working. I just used a 9v battery that I already had rigged up. The injectors are still just dripping fuel and not spraying.

Could this be a fuel pressure issue? I haven't tested the pressure (I don't really know how to on these cars since it doesn't have a fuel rail). If the injectors are clicking with power and the connectors are getting 12v then it's either got to be a fuel pressure issue or the injectors are still clogged right?

I will say they weren't even dripping fuel before I "cleaned" them.

I still don't know why I am getting a 53 SES code.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Code 53 will remain until you either get the engine running, need 50 startups with no malfunctions. Or until you clear the code by removing ECM battery power (pull the inline fuse for 10 seconds).

All it takes is one failure to read the key to set the VATs code. But since it cranks and fires the injectors it is not yet an issue.

Checking the fuel pressure is the next step.

RBob.

Conwilso

Fuel pressure is good at a little above 12 psi.

Electrical issue? Like I said, I the injectors are clicking when I jumped 9v to them. Connectors pulsed with a noid light and when I double checked with a multimeter, were getting 12 volts.

Conwilso

Injectors just have a slow but steady drip while the engine is turning over.

Schurkey

I would run the engine by squirting fuel in the throttle body, and see if the injectors begin to pulse 'n' spray.

I'm thinking that the gasoline dripping from them must be solventing-away the varnish. At some point the pintle will move and the fuel will spray.

Just letting the engine idle worked for me...maybe it'll work for you.

Conwilso

Sorry I haven't posted in a while. Just got back from vacation. I'm going to get a fuel pressure kit from the auto parts store and actually officially test it. Would like to eliminate the fuel pump as an issue before I drop the rear end just to replace it. Something I forgot to mention in my initial post, the battery dies when the car is off for about a day unless put on a battery tender. Obviously I know there is some electrical issue because a brand new battery shouldn't die with the car off, but could the injector problem be related to this battery issue? Like I said, a noid light pulses like the injectors are supposed to, but could it just not be getting enough voltage to open the injectors? Also be reading that some people are having this problem because of a clogged cat. Any help is welcome. Just trying not to throw parts at the problem if they aren't the issue.

Schurkey

A clogged cat does not drain the battery, or cause the injectors to not spray.