Hey everyone, it's been a while since I've been on here. I wanted to see if anyone could help or point me in the right direction on my problem I'm having. First, my '91 Firebird 305 TBI 5 speed hasn't been on the road in a while and I put a new battery in it and all lights and ignition was working but when turning it over it wouldn't do nothing, not even a noise hitting the flywheel. So hit the starter and solenoid with a hammer and no luck. I then took it in to get tested and it sounded weak so bought a new one. Installed it and same thing until after the third time he turned over but no fuel. Checked for spark and I have spark. I then took out the fuel pump out of the tank to see if it was working and when I turned on the ignition everything shut off, I mean everything. No power any where! So reconnected the battery a few times and used a volt meter from the battery to the junction block to the starter from the starter to the wires coming off of it going to the fuse block and alternator. And checked all fuses. Where else do I need to look? Lights, dome lights, nothing clicking when the battery is reconnected, no lights or sounds when ignition is turned on. Thanks for the help!

 

Check the fusible links at the junction block and the starter. Check the ground cable from the battery to the engine and inner fender, and make sure the wires are in good shape, and connections are snug. After that I'd probably start looking at the ignition switch. Do you have 12V at the positive post of the starter solenoid?

 

Hey Drew, thanks for the quick reply. I used the volt meter all the way to the fusible links to the starter and checked the fusible links and they didn't come apart but might try to replace them. And grounds look solid. And I have over 12V at the positive post on starter solenoid.

 

At which point do you lose power? Do you have battery voltage at the fuse block?

 

I have battery voltage from the junction block to the starter. When I turn on the lights this is making a clicking noise like a relay.

 

I'll have to check to see if I have voltage to the fuse block.

 

So the two orange wires hot and the A, B, C, D other side are hot but when I turn on the headlight switch they drop down to 0.02.

 

So the fuel injectors starting clicking and unplugged them, heard some more clicking couldn't find where it was coming from then I took the fuel pump out and this thing was red hot, couldn't handle it. Thinking the fuel pump locked up. Sure isn't pumping and this is a Holley 255.

 

By the way I have power everywhere once again but still the starter takes a few times to turn the motor over. Found out the nut on the solenoid was not tight.

 

After installing the new fuel pump I am still not getting any fuel. Not sure if ignition might be it due to it keeps not engaging the starter all the time.

 

Have you check the vats system

 

The "Guide" box is the headlight motor control box. If the VATS system acts up, it should light up the "security" light in the dash, and the key won't do anything for several minutes until the system resets.

When you hit the key, you should hear the fuel pump prime and run for a couple seconds when you turn from off to run. If the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, the fuel pump won't run again until the distributor signals the ECM that the engine is running.

If you turn the key from off to run, and you don't hear the pump prime, it can be a bad fuel pump relay. When the engine cranks, it'll power the fuel pump bypassing the relay, when it sees oil pressure. Usually that combination of issues will throw a code, and the only difference you'll notice is that the engine cranks longer before starting.

 

Well my vats died about a month ago and i had no security light my car wouldnt crank or anything i took my key to get it read and key was dead they coudnt read it it was just a thought

 

Post #10
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...-ignition.html
If you pull the ecms prom the vats would be bypassed to test if it’s vats. The engine will start but run poorly.