I nice set of WP 305 Torquer heads, LT1 cam, some valve train work and a Performer TBI manifold and a shot of juice should jet a TBI car into the 13s right??assuming it has good exhaust and headers already.

 

taht combo with out nitrous will put a car into the 13's. you shoudl be more worried about chassis and hook than nitrous if yo already have teh otehr stuff. some 3.73 gears with a posi and some good rear suspension, including some spohn control arm relocators shoudl do the trick.
jut turn up teh fuel pressur ea bit, throguh a little more base timing in and you shoudl be good. a custom chip woudl get the most out of the combo.

later
tim

 

think it would pull low 13's or maybe even high 12's with juice?

 

i agree, 12's on the bottle. just gotta get like a 1.75ish 60ft to get it done.

later
tim

 

Do our cars come with posi?
b/c i don't think they do and
this guy at a local performance
shop said it would be about $900
to install a limited slip rear and gears
Isn't that a rip-off??

 

rip off yes.. slp take off unit 99 dollars rear end gears from camaroz28.com 40 dollars..... labor with kit in phoenix area around 400 dollars...


that sounds like a good combo i am looking into what i can do for my ride as well... how much do 305 wp heads run for? i am wonderign how much a set up like this will run... and if you think it could handle a 150 shot of n2o or stay at 125?? didnt mean to steal your post just wondering
Shawn

 

I read an article about some ppl using
Corvette L98 heads on a 305?
How do these compare to WT's? Flow rates
anyone?

 

Holy crap i figured with juice that would get a TBI car into high 13's. Most of those parts i mentioned or easy to come by. I've seen LT1 cams on camaroz28.com for 50-60bucks. WP torquer heads are maybe 700 assembled. Some Valve train work varies on parts and work. And TBI NOS kits i sure could find used somewhere for cheap. You could probally get it all for 1500 or so!!

 

if i could spent 1500 and get my car running 12's then id be happy...i know i could do better withj a 350 but i dont need a car thatll run anything faster than a 12 anyways...thats plenty to show up the mustangs and rice burners on the streets if i have to and go to the track everynow and then and run oh yeah and if you wanna go real cheap with the rear end just get a used one outta a 3rd gen or 4th gen...could even switch to disc brakes and it would only cost maybe 300$ plus its real easy to do

 

It'll cost you cash, but you can do it. All you need is a tuned L03 motor, get those WP heads pocket ported, LT1 camshaft, good set of headers running to high-flow cat and cat-back exhaust, get 3.42 posi rear, Edelbrock TBI intake manifold, 100 shot of juice...you should run 12's no problem...I think.

 

no factory posi. $900 is absolutely terrible. you can do a salvage yard 3.42 rear and put a posi in it for under $350.


later
tim

 

i already have hooker comp headers...im about to get edlebrock intake...i havent decided wether to go with the TBI manifold or the carb one and get the adapter...id rather go with the carb and the adapter so if i decide to get a new holley 2'' TB ill just have to get a new plate...how much are the plates i think i found the one i need from summit for 45$ wouldnt it be better to get a edlebrock cam thats matched to the intake instead of the LT1 cam?

 

How do I take a posi unit off??
What toolsm do I need?

 

I really don't think it's worth it to get a carb intake with a plate, especially with all the stuff you'll need to move or remove (EGR). The TBI intake isn't that bad, and worth the cash. The LT1 cam is just cheap; I'd take it over a matched Edelbrock cam because of price...and it works just fine.

 

So you're saying that used 3.42 gears and a posi PARTS AND INSTALLATION for under $350? What posi are you talking about? I was going to get a Powertrax and that alone is almost $400! Let me know, I'm very interested, and building my car to run low 13s/high12s would probably cost less than my LT1 swap I've been thinking about...

But really, what posi are you talking about?!?!

 

its the $99 take off SLP posi from the 4th gen Z's i believe.just go to www.slponline.com and you can order it right from there.

 

THANKS!

 

NJ SPEEDER is talking about doing the whole rear swap for $325, not just gears. Plus you can usually get rear discs with the new rear.

 

here is what you need to do.
1. prepare to get really dirty
2. go to your friendly neighbor hood salvage yard
3. look for an 88-92 f-body with a 6cyl in it(or that used to have a 6cyl in it)the years are important since you are looking for the later 28spline axles(82-halfway through 87 they were 26spline)
4. look at the RPO list (under side of console dorr on camaros and on the back of the door for the hatch lock box on birds), you are looking for the code GO6, that is the code for a 3.42 rear that is foudn in most(not all) 6cyl cars and some V8 cars
5. unbolt he SOB and take it home(bring a friend, rears are f'ing heavy) most yards charge under $150 w/brakes and under $100 w/o brakes
5b. if the tranny is still in the car, grab the speedo gear so yours is right in the end too
6. call SLP and order a torson take out posi for $99+shipping, it is a direct replacement carrier for 28spline axles with a 3.23 or higher gear ration.
7. swap the carriers:
a. remove diff cover
b. remove drums
c. remove stay screw on center pin
d. remove center pin
e. have a friend push in on the axle while you remove the c-clip
f. do the same thing to the other side
g. slide the axles half way out of the housing
h. unbolt the bearing caps and remove them, be sure to keep them on the same sides they were on.
i. pry, bang, hit and manuver the carrier out of the housing(they are really jammed in there)when it comes out make sure to keep shims on the same side they came out
j. unbolt the ring gear from teh old carrier, bolts are reverse thread
k. bolt rign gear onto new carrier, torque to 100-125ft/lbs
l. jam new carrier with ring gear mounted back into housing using shims and bearing caps ion the same side they came off of
m. put rear cover back on, using permatex
n. refill rear with about 2quarts of fluid
o. swap your newly prepared rear for that lame a$$ 2.73 peg leg you have been suffering with
p. go pull a few hoelshots and feel the difference

whiel you have the rear off there are a few other kewl things you can do on the cheap to make it even better. 1. when you are at teh salvage yard grab the control arms that are on the rear, get some steel strp from hoem depot and cut pieces to box teh bottom of them in and get them welded. about $30 total if someone else has to weld them for you 2. order spohn relocator brackets and have them welded onto the housing, $65 for the brackets + welding 3. rebuild the brakes, because nothing sucks more than not being able to stop from your new found speed. 4. paint teh rear, looks classy and 2 rattle cans of matte black is only $4

hope this helps everyone!

later
tim

 

i can't believe no one has a comment here

 

you could do what I did too, and use a powertrax locker in there

its reaaaaal tight. I snapped an axle to prove it (wheelhope is a bane to axle shafts)
definately easy to install and works awesomely
I would make sure you have no problems like wheel hop though

 

Tim,
Would it be easier to just swap the gears and posi into my current rearend instead of dragging that other one home?
Thanks for your help!

 

Just get the rear from 4th Gen M6 car that's a 99+ and you'll get 3.42 gears with the torsen unit, same as SLP sales. You can find these rears on www.ls1tech.com and www.ls1.com in the classifed sections. They usually go for $300 to $450. The 4th Gen rear cause the wheels to stick out about 1 and 1/2 inches farther and the parking brake will is a little involved to make it work, but the swap will work, or so I'm told.

 

4thgen rear is about 2" wider on each side. $900????????????????????? I've seen front and rear 4x4 gears installed for $800. You can get GM gears including instalation for $400. Add a SLP take off Limited slip for another $100.

 

not really. if you swap a gear set you have to go throught he whoel routine of settign pinion depth and new seals and bearings and stuff. when you are just swaping the carrier all you do is pull it out and throw it back in, no need to reset anything.

later
tim

 

So in the long run I would be doing myself a favor? I'll be doing this in a couple months for sure. It's pretty easy to swap out the carrier? I've never done any rearend work before, is it pretty simple?

 

btw the powertrax was closer to 330 dollars

thats just a wee bit shy of 400
add that to the 65 bux I paid for the rear and I spent a total of maybe 400 for the rear

 

Once you get inside the rear, it should be left to guys who really konw what they're doin. Gears have to be set correctly down to the thousandths of an inch or you'll get all kinds of problems.

 

you will be doing your wallet a big favor. by the time that you spend as much on torson diffs as you woudl on 1 of any other popular unit you could nuke 3 of them, and they can handle just as much abuse(example: my buddy foff667 launches a 3800lbs S-10 from 4000rpm, it holds the shock of a stick behind a supercharged 4.3 vortec motor)
the swap is really simple and the torson carrier even comes with bearing already installed, so you don't even need to worry about that. you are even good to go if you can't find an 88 and up rear withthe good axles, all of our cars came with them. you can just slide the axles out of your rear and slip them into the 3.42 rear.
it has to be one of the easiest bang for ht ebuck mods you can do with a TBI car. you can swap the carrier adn the rears in under 6hours with a couple friends helping.

later
tim