I had the whole story typed out and submitted and it didn't show up. So this is just a test.

 

Well I will type it again I guess.

I purchased this 1983 Z28 Crossfire in 1992. It had some damage on the right front. I put a new nose, right fender and a metal hood on it and drove it for a few summers that way. Then around 98 (that is the inspection sticker on it now) I parked it and decided I would not drive it again till I could restore it correctly. Well life happens and it has been (improperly) stored in a shed with a concrete floor for the last 16 years.

Which brings me to the TBI part of the post. The fuel pump does not run. I have power to the connector. So I pulled the tank. Of course old fuel and lots of rust. So I am getting a new tank. Probably this one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Gas-Ta...918301030#rwid

 

I could not find a listing for the sending unit/ hanger for an 83 so I think I will get this one. 85 to 92 TPI. It will need some mods but it has the 4 lines and three wires. I may have to swap my old connector on it and just not use the threaded connection for the fuel feed. I will need some guidance on reducing the pressure to the 14psi. Also need to know if the fuel level sender is the same so the guage will work.


I have most of the rear suspenion out to remove the tank. After I get it running I will detail everything starting a the back and get all new rubber bushings and brakes and lines etc and work my way forward. The original exhaust still looks pretty good. I may want to go with a larger exhaust later but for now just want to get it running and make a nice driver out of it. It will need a lot of stuff when I get to the top side. Seats and carpet, rubber seals and window felts. And paint, but those are all threads for the future.

 

If it were me, after you get it running again, adjust FP to 13psi instead on a bone stock motor. This is also after you rebuild the TBs so that the diaphragms are new again. The FPR is in the rear TB and will need to be disassembled to adjust it by releasing the spring tension a little. Remove the plate in the regulator CAN bottom by punching it out so that you can then adjust FP externally without having to tear it apart each time. Glad to see that you are getting it back in running order.

 

 

If I use the higher pressure pump that comes with the sending unit I plan on buying will the factory regulator be able to handle it or willI have to get some aftermarket regulator to drop it first?

 

Will the sending unit on this 85 to 92 hanger work correctly with my 83 gauge? Same resistance? I am leaning toward going with this one and addding the correct year pump to it. I can still adjust the pressure up a bit and not worry about running too high.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Gas-Ta....c100752.m1982

 

Also are there any pictures around of opening the rear TB to adjust the regulator. I have looked but don't see any. A few old posts about it but no pics.

 

Here is what you are looking for I believe. The arrow is pointing where the stock GM blankoff plate is located on the rear TB that when removed, you can then adjust your FP externally vs taking apart your TB each time. Just punch it out to remove. Make sure when you remove the four screws that hold the FPR together that you either hold it together real ltight or you put a small clamp on it. There is a lot of tension due to the FPR spring inside. You can strip the screws easily if not careful. GL

 

Yes that helps for sure. Thanks.

I have been digging around some more and found a youtube video about it too. Also determined the resistance for both the 83 and 85 sending units are 0 for empty and 90 for full so should be able to adapt the later hanger into my new tank.